One of the loveliest things about Egypt is its diversity. This diversity will enrich the new country which is emerging after so many years of oppression. Just a short ride on the Metro from Tahrir Square in central Cairo, for example, will take you back in time many centuries to the beginnings of Egypt's Coptic Christian history. For those who haven't yet been there on their visit to Cairo, it is a must. For Egyptians, of whatever faith, it is an essential part of their national story. Getting off the Metro at Mar Girgis station, there is enough to entertain the visitor to "Old Cairo" for many hours. Whether it is to visit the splendidly restored Coptic Museum, one of Egypt's finest, or many of the centuries' old churches, this small enclave will delight the visitor. There are now five churches within one square kilometer, but at one time this number was twenty. This part of Cairo is steeped in history. The course of the River Nile, now a short distance away, has changed with time. It once came right up to the place where visitors get off the Metro, and it was here that the Romans once had their military base in Egypt. Two massive towers marked the Water Gate. The base of one of them can be seen directly across the road from the Metro station. The other one is beneath one of the highlights of the visit: the Hanging Church. The Hanging Church (Al-Muallaqa) is so called because it was built suspended directly over one of the Water Towers of the ancient Roman fortress. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, it is one of Cairo's oldest churches. If you are looking for another of Cairo's museums, though, this isn't one of them. In fact, at whatever time you visit you will see a steady stream of visitors to the church, wishing to make their devotions and to pay their respects. On Fridays and Sundays, religious services take place here, still using the same liturgical language which has been in use by the Coptic Church for centuries. Christianity is said to have been brought to Egypt in the first century by the evangelist St Mark, who became the first bishop of Alexandria. It remained the dominant religion of the country until Islam arrived in 642. In fact, even after that, Islam did not fully take hold for another two hundred years, putting paid to the misconception that Muslims force others to adopt Islam at the point of a sword. In Fustat, another name for this part of Cairo, you can combine your visit to the areas of Coptic interest with a visit to the mosque of Amr Ibn Al-As, the first mosque to be built in Africa, as well as to the synagogue of Ben Ezra, proving that Egypt has had a very colourful religious background and that, contrary to the message spread by some, Islam and other faiths have co-existed quite happily side by side for hundreds of years and will do so for many hundreds more, inshallah. The Hanging Church, then, is considered the jewel in the crown of all the Coptic monuments. Some suggest that a church has existed on this spot since the fourth century. In all likelihood, the present church goes back at least to the seventh century. After recent renovations to the church and its surroundings, it is now to be seen at its best. Entering up a flight of stairs, visitors first come across a small courtyard outside the church itself. The interior of the church has three naves with beautiful wooden ceilings. The central nave is separated from the others by white marble columns. For those unused to Orthodox religious architecture, the sanctuary area at the front is separated from the nave by wooden screens. The idea for this is that the all-holy ceremonies of the liturgy can be performed at the altar by priests, separated from the rest of the congregation in the nave. The sanctuary itself is also divided into three parts, which are separated from the rest of the church by a very beautiful ivory-inlaid ebony screen dating back to the thirteenth century. The central part is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the church's namesake, whilst the other two parts are dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and Saint George. In front of this screen is a thirteenth century pulpit, which sits on fifteen small pillars. These are said to represent the twelve disciples with Saint Luke and Saint Mark. The fifteenth pillar, at the front, is for Jesus himself. This pulpit is used only once a year, on Palm Sunday. It is the atmosphere of the church, though, rather than any particular feature, which is most impressive. This is a place of prayer, hallowed down the centuries by the prayers of many men and women who have gone to beseech help from God in times of need and to give thanks to Him in times of joy. Those visiting the church, Christian or not, should always bear this in mind when thinking beforehand how they should dress or behave inside. Muslims read in the holy Qur'an: "And remember her who guarded her chastity: We breathed into her from Our spirit, and We Made her and her son a sign for all peoples." 21:91 Muslims and Christians have great reverence for Mary, the mother of Jesus (peace be upon him). Others outside Egypt may have an interest in causing division between Egypt's diverse religious communities, but the facts on the ground belie the propaganda from abroad. Christian and Muslim have lived in peace in Egypt for fourteen centuries. Respecting the deeply held beliefs of others does not mean abandoning anything of our own. Believing something different to someone else should not be a threat to those with a firm faith. In fact, people of faith should honour goodness wherever they find it. In visiting the Hanging Church, Egyptians and foreigners alike can take in the beauty of a truly remarkable part of Egypt's history, and can give thanks to the Creator for His gifts to us up to this day, inshallah.
British Muslim writer, Idris Tawfiq, is a lecturer at Al-Azhar University. The author of eight books about Islam, he divides his time between Egypt and the UK as a speaker, writer and broadcaster. You can visit his website at www.idristawfiq.com
