FOR thousands of years Aswan was the "Southern Gate," the last outpost of the Egyptian empire. Its name comes from the ancient Egyptian swenet (making business), and its reputation as a frontier emporium dates from the colonial era of the ivory trade and commerce in ebony, gold, slaves, spices, gum arabic, ostrich feathers, and, at least until 1929, panther skins. In today's souk, various hoofed animals mingle freely with Sudanese in high white turbans, Bedouin camel traders, and black-clad women balancing impossible packages on their heads. The sound of singing and the beating of drums reminds you that this is a gateway to Africa, and that the Tropic of Cancer lies just a few miles to the south. As seen in the climateadapted architecture and gaily painted houses of the Nubian areas, Aswan, 880km south of Cairo, and its gracious inhabitants have an aesthetic sense rarely found in modern Egypt. This is a desert city, austerely clean, full of trees and gardens, the scents of baking sand and the Nile, oleander and frangipani. Although Aswan was a winter resort popular with Greeks, Romans, and Egyptians in antiquity, Europeans didn't come until Thomas Cook sent down his luxuriously outfitted and provisioned dahabiyyas (large feluccas) in 1869. Credited by some as having created the travel industry in Egypt, Cook provided the means for wealthy Victorians to comfortably explore one of the outreaches of their realm while enjoying Aswan's excellent, dry climate. Rich in granite, this area was quarried by Egyptians and Romans, the evidence of which stands in monuments up and down the Nile Valley. It continues to yield mineral wealth to this day …quot; in addition to the distinctive pink-andblack- flecked Aswan granite, there are iron foundries, aluminum mines, and important talc deposits that help fuel Egypt's development. South of Aswan, the High Dam testifies to Egypt's modern determination and its unparalleled ability to renew itself, even to the extent that Egypt no longer ends at Aswan. The use of Lake Nasser for tourism …quot; and its open-air museum of salvaged monuments …quot; extends the grand tour well into what is appropriately, and poignantly, called the New Nubia. Aswan, like Luxor, is laid out along the Nile Corniche, but the West Bank here is undeveloped desert, accessible only by water. This means that you must make short river crossings by feluccas …quot; which are wonderful preludes to visiting Elephantine Island and Kitchener's Island, and the Tombs of the Nobles and St. Simeon's Monastery on the West Bank. Aswan Souk. You won't find fresh elephant tusks here these days, as in the past, but this is still a lively, colourful marketplace filled with Nubian music. Enter the souk beside the Benzion department store, or start from the train station. Walking along the wide, traffic- free thoroughfare, you can find better cotton fabrics here than in Cairo …quot; either plain white or printed with African or pharaonic designs (about LE11 per metre, which is a bit longer than a yard). Readymade buys include galabeyyas (LE70), tablecloths (LE100), and simple, fine white cotton scarves that come in handy in the heat of the day (LE25- LE40). Antiquarians should be on the lookout for antique tribal items, such as daggers, jewellery, and household items. Carpets are also a good option, as many Bedouin and Nubian hand-made carpets find their way to Aswan. Unfortunately, most vendors have their most kitsch patterns at the front of house (decorated with camels or village scenes), and you need to ask for the genuine article …quot; giving away one of your bargaining chips by declaring an interest. Stop in a cafe' for tea and watch the traffic flow. Address: Souk St. (parallel to the Corniche). Opening hours: Daily 8 am …quot; midnight. Nubia Museum. The Nubia Museum is the triumphant capstone of the effort to preserve Nubian culture and folk heritage in the wake of the building of the Aswan High Dam. It was financed by the Egyptian Government with technical assistance from UNESCO. Arranged chronologically, it takes you through Nubia's prehistory; the pharaonic dynasties, including the Kingdom of Kush, when Nubian kings ruled Egypt; and onward through its Christian and Islamic periods. The selection of statuary is extraordinary for its range and eclecticism. There is also a diorama with scenes of Nubian village life. There is a lot to take in …quot; allow about two hours for the wellcurated displays. The museum's harmonious architecture incorporates a Fatimid tomb. It comes from a group of poorly preserved monuments believed to date from the 8th to 12th centuries AD, located in the adjacent Fatimid Cemetery. The museum is a five-minute walk south of the Old Cataract Hotel. Address: Shar'a Abtal al- Tahrir. Telephone: 097/231- 911. Admission fee: LE50; additional LEl00 to use a video camera. Opening hours: Oct.- May, daily 9-1 and 5-9; June- Sept., daily 10-1 and 6-10. Courtesy of Fodor's Egypt, a guidebook published by the American University in Cairo Press.
