Restaurant review: A slice of history Kan ya Makan is a culinary kingdom come, testifies Gamal Nkrumah Once upon a time -- the meaning of the Arabic phrase kan ya makan -- is something of a misnomer. It is located in an extremely modern premises. But, it brings history to vivid life. The address seemed correct, but the eatery I am searching for is hidden somewhere out of sight. Underground, perhaps? The thought crossed my mind -- squid ceviche. Not quite Ramadan edibles, but by now I was starving. Then at last, I locate Kan ya Makan. Familyland, in Maadi, is a strange and not particularly inviting place. There is a huge and ghastly amusement park with a hideously huge glass exterior where street children in rags peer pitifully at the lucky children of well-to-do families playing inside. Beggars and gangs of aimless youth loiter about the entire place. I am finding difficulty locating Kan ya Makan, and it is fast approaching Iftar time. Where shall I break my fast? It takes a little while, walking along endless corridors past fast food joints and film box offices, to realise that its location is actually underground. Kan ya Makan offers as exciting an experience as any Cairene eatery can provide. Inspired by potentates from the Arabian Nights, the interior décor is tastefully designed. Old-fashioned, and yet eye-catching, and above all comfortable. Yet, there is something bizarre about Kan ya Makan that makes you feel lonely, tearful and hungry. I happen to know the proprietor well, an amiable man in his 60s. After a long stint in the Gulf, Yehia Zakaria yearned to come home to his native Egypt. He set up Balady in Maadi and it was an instant success. Now, he is determined to make the most of Kan ya Makan. He insists on organic food. His enthusiasm for his pet subject proves infectious. Zakaria is a great believer in organic food. True convenience food without the dreaded additives. Growing carrots, potatoes and tomatoes in plastic compost bags became his passion. That added spice. African curios and handicrafts dangle from the ceilings and are hung on the walls. "I have visited several African countries and always leave with souvenirs," Zakaria explains. Another much vaunted feature of his restaurant is that Zakaria stamps his artistic imprint on the place. His principal themes are memory and the eye-popping jolts it can deliver. Foray into the surreal. The toilets are spotless and spacious with wall-to-wall mirrors that make them look double their real size. Zakaria conducts his connoisseurs with firm and reliable hands through his underworld of organic cuisine. He doesn't frame the food as sexily as you've grown accustomed to in some up-market Maadi restaurants. But he serves no colourless meals. The thought of overly rich traditional French onion soup with lashings of cheese jangled some raw nerves. But, I had a go. It was delicious. The pizza, too, was superb. My companion wasn't fasting, anyway. The food looks scrumptious, the company even more so. Zakaria is peacock proud of his pizza, an Italian- inspired delicacy that is neither appropriate for Iftar nor Sohour. This is a restaurant with cross-generational appeal. Being happy to be fed and liked are great blessings. Karim, my elder son, grabbed his plate piled high with roqaq and moved next to the television to get a better view. Television is a welcome distraction from the petty family fights that inevitably develop when too many family members are stuck in the same room, around the same table. Youssef, my younger son, loathes roqaq, sheets of phillo pastry with chunky mince meat between the layers, doused with butter and soaked in a rich broth. These quibbles apart, this is an impressive, enchanting and relevant restaurant, which should not be missed, and especially in Ramadan. The proprietor, an aficionado of classical Arabic music, introduces his son, Ahmed, who sings a sublime lamento. Next was a guitar solo by his friend Tony. The soloist had much feel for the rhythm. He recovers from the rueful, satirical mode of his best lyrics. My sons sing along. Zakaria claims that preparing such delicious dishes is much harder than singing harmonies. The guitar player hitting his stride, singing in Spanish. The atmosphere is not particularly Ramadan -- more Eid Al-Fitr, perhaps. Kan ya Makan Familyland, Maadi, Cairo Tel: 252 43200/252 43300 Iftar for two: LE150
