Pierre Loza discovered that although Qusseir may be among the less prominent destinations on Egypt's tourism map, it offers a great deal more than meets the eye The prospects of vacationing in Qusseir didn't spark much excitement initially. All I knew about the place was that there was a great battle there long, long ago, and that there were some French people involved. Ambivalent about my historical ignorance, I decided to go and see this mining town south of Hurghada that is said to have become a diving paradise. After all, discovery is a central component in any truly fulfilling travel experience. Departing on the 5.15am plane out of Cairo is no picnic, especially when you're not sure which airport features regular flights to Hurghada. After getting lost a couple times through a maze of signs that seemed to always point in the wrong direction, I was finally where I was supposed to be, sipping hot espresso in the passenger's waiting lounge. Contrary to my previous air travel experiences to the Red Sea, it seems that domestic flights to Hurghada now fly from Terminal Two of the new Cairo Airport. The airport's interior has recently undertaken a desperately needed makeover, making the espresso all the more enjoyable. Off the shuttle bus and into the crowded plane, seat belts were fastened. A computer graphically-generated gentleman with a distinctly Egyptian moustache showed passengers safety procedures with suavity. The plane was hardly in the air before the pilot announced landing. Cairo-Hurghada flights usually take from 30 to 45 minutes depending on speed, weather and route. On arrival in Hurghada, I was welcomed by a Movenpick driver holding a sign with my name on it. Bracing myself for a 120km trip south towards Qusseir, I slept for most of the ride, which took about 90 minutes. The Movenpick was built in 1995 with a uniquely Nubian style which took into account environmental aspects like the direction of the winds and sunlight as well as incorporating the use of local building materials. (This style of domed structures has since been imitated by numerous resorts all over the Red Sea). The hotel's marble floor entrance is complemented with Arabic lanterns, giving the place an antiquated presence. The pool area is studded with splendid palm trees that seem to accentuate every angle of the spiffy domed chalets. A restaurant/bar lies high on a cliff where below pristine waters with various shades of blue are caressed by the sandy bay. Taking advantage of my five-star surroundings, I decided to grab breakfast before getting some more sleep. I must say the morning buffet was more than exceptional. Fluffy almond pancakes sat next to smoked trout while creamy spinach and a diverse collection of freshly baked bread took the show to laudable heights. Freshly made omelettes and juicy veal sausages washed down by fresh fruits of all kinds and forms made the morning buffet at the Movenpick more than just a meal; it was a celebration of life. After a deep fattening sleep, it was time to discover the area. In time for the Qusseir City tour, I jumped on the bus as our friendly guide astonished passengers with vivid animal sound impressions. Children -- including myself -- tried to steal the spotlight with a series of chirping efforts, but he again outdid most of us with some "meowing" that had the crowd in stitches. As we progressed towards the downtown area, I learnt that Qusseir's history goes as far back as ancient Egypt. Pharaohs in the Nile Valley would travel from the port of Old Qusseir to the land of Punt (God's Land). They believed the gods had led their ancestors from Punt into the Nile Valley where they ruled for centuries. Travelling via Wadi Al-Hammamat and the port of Qusseir, Pharaohs went to Punt for mystical items used in religious rituals. Probably in present-day Somalia, Punt was described as a tropical region replete with palms and apes, where Pharaohs affirmed their mystical roots as gods. Qusseir's post-Islamic historical role as a passage route for pilgrims accounts for the large number of old mosques adorning its premises. Minarets of yellow and old houses carved with Quranic verses give Qusseir a strong historical identity that is rarely found in a fast-moving dot.com world. Mosques such as Al-Firan built in 1704 offer a rare look into a rich historic past. After a walking tour of the city's coastline, we were permitted a few minutes of free time where we could shop at bazaars and get further acquainted with Qusseir. I sat in a small café/bazaar and ordered a cup of tea as I waited for our tour group to reconvene. As I sat quietly drinking my tea, a tiny girl with braided hair peeked from beside me and asked, "Is he there?" As I was about to ask her who she was talking about, a tall black man in a white galabiya came from behind. In a movement that resembled a jog in slow motion, he followed her around the shop, as the youngster chuckled softly with excitement. The chances of such a scene occurring in downtown Cairo go from slim to none. It is this quiet, laid back character of the city and its people which gives it the authentic feel of a romantic coastal town. The romantic ambiance of Qusseir can also be felt as one admires the charming Italian architecture left by the Italian Red Sea Phosphate Company from 1916. Our tour also included other architectural remnants of the company's presence in Qusseir, including a church built by the Italian company for its miners. Named after Saint Barbara "the protector of the mines", the church today is the Coptic Orthodox Church of the Virgin Mary. After the nationalisation of the Suez Canal in 1956 and the departure of the Italians, the Egyptian authorities handed the church over to the Egyptian Coptic Orthodox Church. With a traditional Catholic exterior, a long steeple and arc patterns, the interior of the church is covered with Coptic icons, adding to the church an intriguing historical dimension. The Italian phosphate company also played a major role in improving the fortunes of Qusseir in the early part of the 20th century. When the Cairo- Suez railway opened in 1850 it diverted the grain trade as well as the passage of pilgrims from Qusseir to Suez, eliminating the previous affluence it had once enjoyed. Famine in 1864 also reduced the city's population from 8,000 throughout most of the 19th century, turning it into a ghost town of only 800 people. After being granted permission to mine for phosphorus in the surrounding mountains of Qusseir, the company built its workers residential blocks that today give the town its European flavour. The company hired thousands from all over Egypt for the refinery and transport of phosphate, to be used for soil fertiliser. As night began to fall, a vivid vermillion sunset inspired most of our tour group to take their cameras out and start flashing away. The sunset's glittery reflection on the coastline of Qusseir contrasted with the seafront cafés while old Qusserians puffed away at their water pipes. Unfortunately the tour didn't include a visit to the famed citadel so I was only able to see it from the outside as we swiftly passed by it. By the time the sun sank into the Red Sea, we were on our way back to our congenial residence. After a little resting and some silent gazing at my room's sea view, it was time for dinner. Candle lit pottery ornaments illuminated the poolside buffet while a miniature stage was being set for the upcoming entertainment. An Upper Egyptian rababa (violin-like instrument) and singing group roused the crowd, as savory tuna, sword fish and veal kabab skewers were chewed with great ease. Belly dancers with candle lit chandelier crowns danced to Upper Egyptian tunes, pulling to the stage a group of Germans who gave belly dancing an earnest shake. Superb cuisine, colourful entertainment and a mild breeze placed one in a euphoria of positive vibes. By 11pm the show was over and one by one the vacationers trickled to their rooms. I also followed suit. Mostly honeymooners and families, the clientele didn't appear to be out for the laser show and club scene. The people there seemed more interested in peaceful relaxation with a dash of luxury, entertainment and outdoor activity. Lying down in my room to the sound of the sea accompanied by a breeze that took care of the ventilation, I eased into an infantile hibernation. After a royal breakfast to which I had become more accustomed to, I took a walk along the hotel's beach which offers a wide range of activities -- diving, snorkelling, volleyball, and of course the ubiquitous camel on the beach waiting to offer his services. One other attraction: foreigner-watching. An elderly German diver was being helped up the jetty by the diving crew who were beating a drum to celebrate his safe arrival from one of many diving excursions. A retired BMW executive, Hans Helten, was on his fifth visit to the Movenpick in Qusseir. "I am actually here with my family to celebrate my 70th birthday," he said. Although Helten admitted that Qusseir might not be for everyone, he acknowledged that as a diver he found it to be top notch. "My younger son is 23, and he asks me, 'Where are the discos?' To me, because I'm a diver, all I'm looking for is a relaxing diving vacation," he said. Due to the close proximity of the house reef at the Movenpick, divers don't have to go on long trips for their dives. "Here it's beautiful. I go in the water and I'm in the reef, which gives me more time to spend with my family," he added. The following morning, I took it upon myself to erase my historical ignorance. I headed towards the Qusseir Citadel, also known as the Fort, in a bid to become smarter. A mammoth site of thick limestone walls to absorb cannon fire, the citadel is one of the most important ancient monuments along the Red Sea. In a previous state of advanced decay, an ongoing restoration project which began in 1997 has turned it into a Red Sea visitor's centre. Six cannons from Napoleon's armies remain on display in the courtyard. Three of the bastions contain displays about Bedouin life, maritime and overland trade. There are also two trolleys from the phosphate factory mounted on rails in the eastern corner of the Fort. A map of Egypt covering an underground cistern shows major cities and routes during the Graeco- Roman period. Built by Sultan Selim the Grim in 1517 to facilitate trade and ensure the safe passage of pilgrims, the citadel has witnessed numerous battles throughout its history. It represents a central cornerstone in the town's history, standing its ground for some time against Napoleon's campaign in Egypt. After Egypt's Mameluke rulers became largely independent from the Ottoman Empire during the late 1700s, French revolutionaries began to see Egypt as a coveted prize. Not for its strategic importance or plentiful booty but for the glory of liberating Egyptians from brutal Mameluke rule. As French dominance spread over most of Egypt, pockets of resistance in Upper Egypt continued to resurface due to the steady flow of reinforcements from the port of Qusseir. Thousands of Arab warriors came from the Arab Peninsula in an effort to stop the French campaign. Recognising Qusseir as a primary source of resistance, Bonaparte ordered Lt Collon to capture Qusseir by sea in January of 1799. Supplied with four warships, Collon encountered 11 ships, which were hauling men and arms from the Arab Peninsula. As the French fleet advanced forward, they suffered heavy bombardment from on-shore cannons. Strong winds blew the French fleet to the Fort, close enough for cannons to bring its leading vessel and most of its fleet to a flaming sink. Unshaken by their crushing defeat, the French made a second attempt by land under the leadership of Gen Bellieard. Stationed in Qena, while suffering from an eye infection, Bellieard marched to Qusseir with 350 men and 400 camels. Treading the desert sometimes as long as 24 hours without rest, the French finally reached Qusseir by land. After a series of battles, the French took Qusseir and its Fort in May of 1799, neutralising a source of resistance and ensuring control over the Red Sea's trade routes. After a heavy dose of battles and conquests, my mood turned towards doing something more carefree. On my return from the Fort I signed up for the ghost ride, a quadrunner tour of the phosphate quarries. A little speed and excitement are a great way to spice up a quiet beach vacation. Helmet on and sun glasses shimmering, I roared into the open road after getting a few pointers on shifting motorcycle gears. Off the asphalt, past the Movenpick stables and our tour sped into the desert landscape. Bouncing up and down the hilly terrain and watching the desert go by is thrilling. The wind's response to every squeeze of the gas gave me a feeling of freedom and empowerment, and probably felt by many motorcycle enthusiasts. In about 15 minutes, we reached the abandoned quarries. Inside one quarry, which stretched inside the mountains for several kilometres, we found some of the original helmets left by miners from the 1930s. At peace with the fact that I'm no Indiana Jones, I took a brief peek into the mine's dark depth and then jumped back on my four- wheel speed racer. On our ride back, we noticed a Bedouin tent used for summer parties, where tourists have dinner and catch a glimpse of desert culture. Ironically, the man running the tent was not a Bedouin. Mohamed Mansour belongs to the Ababda tribe, a nomadic people that wander the southern mountains of the Red Sea, herding camels and sheep. Following the rainy season, the Ababda tribes have been known to occasionally pass through Qusseir for water and supplies. "This year the rains have been good to our tribes," Mansour said. "You see, for the last seven years our people have suffered greatly due to the scarcity of rain water." The Ababda depend on rain so that desert shrubs can grow and feed their herds. In periods of scarce rainfall, the Egyptian government sometimes assists nomadic tribes like the Ababda with food supplies. After a day of Napoleonic battles, quadrunners and tribal concerns, I was just about ready for the more basic pleasures in life. A warm dinner and a soft bed provided the perfect ending to an eventful day. Despite the windy weather I couldn't leave without seeing the house reef that Hans, the BMW executive, was raving about. To keep myself warm, I rented a shorty diving suit along with the snorkelling gear. After wearing it the wrong way a couple of times, I was off to the jetty to see another face of Qusseir. Distressed by my timid reluctance to jump from the jetty, a dive crew member gave me a nudge with his hip, dropping me into the water like a sack of potatoes. The water temperature seemed to constantly change, according to which area of the reef you were snorkelling. Overall, the temperature was fine. A little apprehensive at first, the reef has a welcoming quality that entrances you fully into its colourful surroundings. Laughing underwater at needle fish traffic jams transports you from all that is known to a whole new world of amazement and discovery. The great intimacy one feels while interacting with the marine world soothes the soul and clears the mind. Ring Wrasse fish, with their shiny red zebra stripes, slide through the corals in search of their next meal of smaller fish. Live open sea shells with a pearly white interior litter the reef, giving it a dazzling star-like quality. An underwater fairy tale, the Movenpick's house reef is an unadulterated treasure, blessed with both beauty and biodiversity. Finally understanding Hans' excitement, I vowed that this would hopefully not be the last time I would set my goggles on it. (It is moments like these that one feels the magnitude of the tragedy that comes with breaking a single centimetre of reef. Experts believe that it can take up to 100 years for one centimetre of coral to grow). The Movenpick's house reef, managed by Subex, an international diving centre, is meticulously well managed. Chipped coral, a Hurghada staple, is rarely found here. According to Michael Latschenberger, Subex manager, this may be due to the strict precautions taken by the diving centre's operators. "We don't allow more than 20 divers in the reef at a time because we want to preserve it for future generations," Latschenberger said. The biodiversity of the bay can be seen first-hand as a hawk dives into the bay with the precision of a fighter pilot for his daily dose of fish protein. "We've had turtles come and lay their eggs in the bay before. That time we had 35 baby turtles, and that is what makes this place very special," Latschenberger smiled. He was also happy to see that unlike other resort areas along the Red Sea, "Qusseir is growing at a steady sensible pace." Boasting numerous international environmental awards, the Movenpick in Qusseir was among the first hotels to establish a water station which treats sewage water for re-use in agricultural purposes. As the sun set on the last day of my stay, a creamy farewell Movenpick ice cream made my final good-bye to luxury all the more remorseful. At the end of the day, Qusseir and its Movenpick provide a truly satisfying travel experience. With everything from horse riding safaris to diving and quadrunner trips, it offers a little something for everyone. If you're looking for night life, it might be better if you aimed more towards Hurghada and Sharm El-Sheikh. Quaintly unpretentious and vulgar in its natural beauty, Qusseir is a desert paradise for those looking for romantic nights and days filled with an array of outdoor activities. It holds more of a reserved family-oriented, honeymooners ambiance that is a dream for any family vacation. One of the lifeguards here said to me that "it sometimes seems like we have a curfew here by 11.30pm." I believe this tranquil atmosphere makes it all the more unique and enjoyable for those looking for history, beauty and peaceful luxury.
