Matrouh is where the romance between Anthony and the mystery queen blossomed. Need Pierre Loza say more to attract a visit? Marsa Matrouh might have been regarded as a sleepy coastal town, but today a newly refurbished infrastructure has opened its doors to the prospects of major tourism investment. I recall Matrouh 10 years ago as a place of exquisite natural beauty, where weary donkeys pulled carts filled with travellers that came from metropolitan cities. At the time, shower water was from the sea and the only hotel with decent facilities was the Beau Site. After a day at the beach, the afternoons were usually spent riding bicycles in the Air Force Club. Although it might not sound too exciting, for a 10-year-old it was absolute bliss. It was also a place where pumpkin seeds ( lib in Arabic) and figs were fresh, plentiful and delicious. Although the quickest way to get from Cairo to Matrouh is by airplane, flights only run during the three months of summer and only then twice a week. Taking the train is possible, unfortunately they usually take much longer and are a lot less comfortable than buses, which depart from the Giza station on a daily basis. A small amount of baqsheesh and a streak of luck allowed me the pleasure of sitting in all five backseats on the 7am bus. The trick is to make sure you spread yourself as soon as everyone has taken their assigned seats, a sure way to repel intruders and ensure comfort for the hefty five- and sometimes six-hour trip. A sure indication that you're getting close to Matrouh is the plots of fig trees lining both sides of the highway, complemented of course by mammoth resort villages dotting the Mediterranean coast. Matrouh's entrance is colourful and decorative, the roads which used to be rubble having metamorphosed into smooth asphalt and, from the looks of its streetlights, have become the standard. My only disappointment was with the unimaginative corniche, which identically resembled its Alexandria counterpart. On arrival, I hopped into one of Matrouh's new spiffy blue and white Hyundai taxis which replaced many generations of mistreated donkeys which at the very least deserve a landmark statue in a public square for many years of pulling without complaint. Off we went to the San Giovanni Hotel, a three-year-old establishment which spurted out of the area's new found tourism boom. San Giovanni does not really stand out despite its dapper design. It is still, however, a cosy, family-oriented type of setting. The hotel has 67 rooms and there are plans for 150 more, plus swimming pool facilities. The main form of leisure it offers at present is the beach. Rooms are simple, well decorated and spacious, offering a pleasant surprise if one judges by the hotel's somewhat tacky entrance. San Giovanni General Manager Mohamed Mursi says that initially people mocked the idea of a five-star hotel opening in Matrouh. Many onlookers thought the area could not generate enough business to keep a hotel running all year. "I think our chairman's vision that the North Coast represents the future of Egyptian tourism is gradually becoming a reality. We have been open for three years and we are now planning to expand," Mursi said. Although occupancy levels are much lower during the months of winter, Mursi believes that Matrouh's close proximity to the Siwa Oasis has significantly boosted his firm's prospects. "The tourists that stop here on their way to Siwa are basically what kept us running throughout winter," he said, adding that Matrouh's potential lies in the fact that unlike its Red Sea neighbours it is a highly untapped tourism destination, which enjoys the availability of a large local work force. Regarding the excessive construction of resort villages that cater to local demand, usually taking the form of everything from professional syndicates to clubs and private ventures, Mursi said there was still room for growth. "If you go further down the coast you will find numerous areas not yet utilised that would compare favourably to beaches in the Caribbean," said Mursi. The word on the market is that the area is bracing itself for sizeable tourism investments over the next couple of years. Mursi also hinted that if some of Matrouh's public beaches were privatised, even greater investment opportunities would arise. Another factor which tends to impede tourism investment is the ill-defined land ownership legislation. "Sometimes an investor must pay for his land more than once in order to appease the indigenous Bedouin community," Mursi said. This problem has also been occurring in some parts of Sinai like Dahab, where land ownership is highly disputed even among the Bedouins themselves. In terms of tourism development, Mursi agrees that much more needs to be done. "We need more hotels, restaurants, cafés, shopping areas and nightclubs. Ten years ago, Sharm El-Sheikh didn't have these things. If they could do it, there is no reason why we can't," said Mursi. A sign that Matrouh is starting to make a presence on the investment map is the springing up of international food chains previously unheard of in the area. There is also the Matrouh landmark, the Rommel Museum, closed at present due to its deteriorating condition. "There are presently negotiations between the governorate and the Ministry of Culture to refurbish the museum," Mursi said. San Giovanni lies on a spit of sand a few metres opposite the famed Cleopatra baths. The hotel's beach is a natural sea water lake that spills into the open sea. The hotel management is presently trying to get the governorate to open another channel to the sea, therefore allowing for a more natural current. I spent the rest of the day contemplating the meaning of life with a good book on the San Giovanni beach. The oxygen was addictively invigorating, fresh and clean. Although I could've done without the Egyptian pop resonating in the background, the sea breeze was enough to entrance the most pensive of minds. There was apt comedic material when a gaggle of children from the public beach next door persistently attempted to break across the floating water barrier separating each beach. The situation got intense when they attempted to annex the inflatable sea bed from one of San Giovanni's more privileged little patrons, forcing one hot-headed mommy to bring in the lifeguards for reinforcement. A swim in any of Matrouh's beaches seems to set itself apart as a uniquely refreshing experience, and the San Giovanni beach is no exception. After some rusty breaststrokes I headed for the dinner buffet served promptly at 7pm. Although more choices were available, a hefty lamb stew and some grilled zucchini were satisfying enough. The next morning at midday I headed for a bus tour to see the changes made to more reputable natural sites such as Agiba or "wonder". Agiba is a high rising cliff where limestone embraces a glorious shore line with an incredible array of blues ranging from luminous turquoise to opaque navy. Utterly sublime, the site resembles expressionist paintings where the sun's reflection explodes into a moving visual contrast of life and colour. A descending walkway has been built, allowing patrons to walk down the once hazardous descent, down the extremely steep cliff. A cone- shaped structure that looks uninhabited has also been constructed on the beach's background, probably destined to become a cafeteria of some sort. I'm afraid the silky white sand, believed to be the secret behind Matrouh beaches' diverse spectrum of blue, could use some cleaning. On invitation from a group of Bedouins, I headed east of the shoreline where a camp fire was being prepared for some afternoon tea. Inside a cave-like area the boys had everything from lamb to vegetables, to fresh bread for picnicking. It turns out that the Bedouin tribes have just concluded a series of June celebrations commemorating their cultural links to Libya. "In these celebrations poets compete with one another for prizes and we also have horse racing," said Islam, a Bedouin mechanic from the Awlad Ali Red tribe. A Libyan diplomat was also present at the tribal party adding a political dimension to the ball where 160 sheep were slaughtered. Islam also made a point of dismissing claims of Bedouin discontent with Matrouh's tourism development. "For some people the land represents their livelihood because it is where their sheep graze. That is why some people may be fearful about losing their land," said Islam. Along with the red and white Awlad Ali tribes, there are three other tribal groups -- the Gemiees, Sninies and Awlad Kharouf. There are some 56 branches from these five groups. Many of these lineages have family ties to Libya, where communication between tribal elders continue in the settling of any community disputes, even across borders. On our way back to the hotel we passed by the Cleopatra baths, a natural basin of immense beauty, fit only for the mysterious queen that has captivated minds for centuries. A natural sea water entrance and exit that has been chiselled into rectangles, allows the water inside the basin to renew itself depending on the level of current. Just sitting inside, one hears the echoes of waves while the rays of sunlight illuminate its entrance like a star-lit tomb. The sounds and smells of the Cleopatra baths provide an intimate experience with nature in its most rudimentary form. Some daredevils were diving from the top of the basin's alarmingly high structure, as an elderly man fished for crabs in the surrounding rocks. In terms of archaeological finds, Matrouh might not stand out yet it has had its fair share of historical events partly due to its geographical importance to Egypt as one of its major western entry points. It is from Matrouh that Alexander the Great embarked on his quest for the Oracle of Amun in Siwa in 331 BC so as to confirm his divinity. Its coastal route represented the safest passage way across North Africa for everyone from the Greeks, Romans and Arab merchants to pilgrim caravans. According to Harvard scholar Oric Bates, Matrouh came to be known as Paraetonium during the time of Alexander. Bates says the name came after one of Alexander's men shot an arrow at a gazelle which missed, prompting Alexander to say, "fellow you have shot wide of the mark," which evolved into "wide of the mark", paraetonium in Latin. Paraetonium also witnessed the romantic saga of Anthony and Cleopatra versus Octavian, later to become Emperor Augustus. Cleopatra anchored her fleet in present day Matrouh, where she directed part of her military campaign. After Anthony's men mutinied against him in Paraetonium, siding with Cornellius Gallus, he again rallied some of his fleet hoping to re-enter Paraetonium and bring his men back under his leadership. As Anthony called to his men across the walls to return to his allegiance, Gallus sounded trumpets so that his voice could not be heard. After Gallus destroyed most of his fleet, a weary Anthony headed east to fight Augustus in Pelsium, where he met his final defeat. According to some accounts the two lovers may have spent their last hours together in Paraetonium. Matrouh also represented a much coveted prize during the German-Italian World War II North African offensive. Strategic position, railway access, and an inviting port were among the reasons it was fought over so much, continuously changing hands between ally and German control. Extending 400kms south to the New Nile Valley and West from Alexandria to Sallum, it was bombed on several occasions during World War II. Even between the two World Wars, Matrouh served as the administrative centre for the British government in the Western Desert and its oases. Legendary German General Rommel first entered Matrouh in June 1942 after he had captured Tubruq, reaching Al-Alamein in July. A string of Allied victories however forced his Afrika Corps to retreat to Beni Ghazi. Remembered as a humane military man who would do things like reduce his men's water rations to keep prisoners of war alive, the cave where Rommel conducted battles commemorates his memory to this day. Closed for renovation, the expansive cave is said to have been used in Roman times to store Rome-bound grain. The cave/museum displayed a number of Rommel's possessions, including the coat he wore during his service in the Afrika Corps, as well as maps and battle plans. It would be a real shame if veterans come to visit Rommel's cave to commemorate their experience in the battle of Al-Alamein and find it closed. After devouring a fluffy omelet at the breakfast buffet, I was off to discover Matrouh's newest and biggest resort, the Almaza Beach Resort managed by Iberotel. Owned by the same company that developed Hurghada's Makadi Bay area, Almaza aims to mushroom into a community of hotels, resorts and services. On your way out of Matrouh, you can also stop by the Libyan market for some goodies. It is also a must to take a dip in the Ubayid, Cleopatra, and Gharam (romance) beaches if only to discover the magic of which Egyptian singer Laila Murad once serenaded. Lying 38km east of Matrouh, a 20-minute bus ride, the hotel is surrounded by fig trees. From the Red Sea to the Mediterranean, it seems that international tourism developers prefer removed areas, where enough space is available to create the kind of atmosphere they are aiming for from scratch. Almaza's interior is a savvy cross between contemporary Spanish and Oriental. The room I stayed in had a sea view that was divine. Uniquely designed to allow two other family members to sleep in the terrace area which is split off by a small curtain, the room is neat and luxurious. I must say the facilities here were truly above and beyond anything I have ever seen in Matrouh. It felt like you were enjoying the world class facilities of the Red Sea while enjoying the unique climate of the North Coast. Almaza welcomed its first charter flight a couple of weeks ago and the whole experience looks like it's in the early stages of operating. The buildings are spanking new and some of the green areas look like they haven't been planted for long. Almaza's General Manager Safwat Taher took over in February during the secondary phase of construction. "It wasn't easy developing a property here. We had to stay in Matrouh and go back and forth to oversee the whole process," he said. The five-star hotel has about 400 rooms with an additional wing still in the making. On selling such a new destination to European tourist markets, Taher attributed most of the credit to extensive research done before construction plans were implemented. "Everything from geographical specifications to the desires of international feeders were taken into account before construction started," said Taher. With plans to build five more hotels, golf courses and a convention centre among other things, Taher believes that because Almaza is a short two-hour, 15- minute plane ride from Italy, the potential is immense. "In seven to 10 years time, I think this place will really establish itself on the international tourism market," he said. With about six charter planes arriving from Italy and five from Germany from May to mid-June, and more expected in summer proper, Taher believes the indicators are quite promising. With 650 guests occupying the hotel, travel excursions to places like Agiba or Al-Alamein military graveyard are also on offer. As I was chatting away with the general manager, a middle-aged gentleman walked in introducing himself as a diving instructor interested in developing a diving centre in Almaza. The manager's response was that he didn't know that there were any coral reefs here. "You would be amazed at the number of submerged submarines and war ships left from World War II you've got around your hotel. They would make for some very interesting diving sites," said the instructor. After directing him to the proper processing conduits, Taher went on to site diving among the opportunities that the area could offer. He was exceptionally optimistic about whether the hotel could operate during the winter time. "If you compare our winter season to Scandinavian countries or Russia, you will see that to them our winter is lovely. For that reason I am confident that we can operate throughout the winter season." An imprudent decision to head to the hotel's gym left me truly exhausted, prompting a quick escape to the sauna and steam rooms. Initially I couldn't breathe in the sauna, but after a while the sweltering heat was bearable. Leaving the health benefits of a good sweat and cleansing steam on the side, the best part of the sauna and steam experience was jumping into the chilly indoor pool just when you suspect your body is starting to melt away. The sensation is exhilarating, and with the Roman style arches permitting the sunlight inside the health club's indoor pool area, one could not help but enjoy the grandeur of the whole experience. After a soothing massage, like any blue-blooded aristocrat I headed for the Jacuzzi to chat with some Belgians about what they thought of the place. Initially one of them, a police officer, thought I was hitting on his wife, using a hand gesture to suggest that his Belgian beauty was taken. After a little struggle with the language, they understood that my intentions were purely professional. "We usually go to the Dominican Republic for our summer vacations. The only difference is that animation teams there usually speak French, here they all speak Italian," he complained. But overall it looked like they were highly satisfied with the place and the services they were getting, saying they would definitely consider coming back next year if the price is right. The high point of my stay in Almaza Hotel was definitely its beach. The sea was pristine, almost pulsating with vibrant colours that left me in a state of childish ecstasy. Soaking my emotional baggage into the deep blue sea, I was glad to be alive. It is during moments like these when you think to yourself "hey, life is beautiful in and of itself". This is what beauty tends to do to us -- it allows us to get carried away. Sitting in the shallow end, I wondered how Cleopatra and Anthony fell in love on these very shores and how Alexander questioned the waves about his awaited destiny in Siwa. Matrouh's lustre has not diminished one bit. One could only hope that tourism development will be conducted while taking into consideration the preciously fragile natural environment that makes this area so special.
