Restaurant review: Persian Getaway The crooning Diva and the dense stews The kitschy gold-plated sign outside is a dead giveaway; Sheraz, Mohandessin's sole Iranian restaurant caters to those who appreciate even the slightest attempt at ostentation. Inside, my companion and I dig into the basket of lavash, crispy sourdough bread baked with sesame seeds, and the spread of diced green salad and white cheese as we take in the décor. White walls turn to shades of pastel yellow and pink as they approach the ceiling. Two grey plaster half-statues jutting out of one wall, evoking the Greeks' struggles with their deities, can't seem to decide if they're out of place or not. Bright red tablecloths, and their napkin counterparts, are spread atop white tablecloths on square tables. All seating upholstery, from the chairs to the sofas that line the back walls, is a murky green-and-yellow floral print. Petit saffron chandeliers overhead provide the muted lighting, and for ornamentation Indian and even louder (and brighter) Pakistani draperies hang on the walls. The Far-Eastern influences have undoubtedly been given free reign to permeate this eclectic mix. More food arrives as we continue inspecting the locale. The appetising starters include masat moseer, yoghurt with mountain garlic and mint, sebz webneer, white cheese with mint leaves, basil, onions and walnut, and our tangy thick paste selection, keshk badmjan, diced eggplant Persian style. The Arabesque paravent sheltering a family and its excitable children from the remainder of the restaurant leaves us wondering whether it's run by Iranians or Egyptians. The manager is summoned and it emerges that the owner is the son of a famous Kuwaiti actor, who successfully cornered the market on gratifying his countrymen's Persian cravings during their summer excursions in the neighbourhood. The waiters are cocky and pushy (quite obviously from having plenty of free time on their hands) and recommend the Iranian versions of the grilled platters. And though the difference from the local equivalents will barely be noticeable, both in terms of aesthetics and taste, they are well executed. The house special, chello kebab sheraz, is comprised of minced lamb kofta, a skewer of veal meat, one of chicken, grilled tomatoes, and their three types of rice. Whether it's baqla, with green beans and dill, saffron, or zereshk, with wild berries, the pollow (rice) here is a necessary side order; it's steamed, light and the choice remains yours whether to allow the butter cube perched on the mountainous portion's summit to melt or not. The joujeh kebab, charcoaled boneless chicken, is also offered with the same extensive rice selection. However it is the khorshet (stews) that are the real show-stealing indigenous prize here. The khorshet alo, lamb and tomato stew with dry plums and oriental spices, is both hearty and savoury. Repeated stripping of the plums' flesh from their kernels however proves to be an exacting task, and many are left unconsumed. The same lamb and tomato combination is on offer with badmjan, bamya, and kyma, eggplant, okra, and crushed chick peas, respectively. My companion's fesenjoon, chicken stewed in a pomegranate and walnuts sauce, the consistency of henna, is pungent, delicious, but slow-your-thoughts- down heavy. As they continue to pipe in the Persian crooning of an anonymous but immensely talented Diva, we come to recognise that this is definitely pre-siesta food. It therefore becomes imperative that we wash it all down with a doukh, rayeb milk with mint and soda. Its tartness is sharp and digestive with a vengeance. So to round off an entirely pleasant Friday brunch, we indulge ourselves with the jamana pastani, Persian ice cream with saffron, crushed pistachios and rose water. Sumptuous, its light sweetness is the perfect antidote to the earlier density of the main courses. Sheraz Iranian Restaurant. 84 Shehab St, Mohandessin. Tel: +2 304 2629. Opening hours: 11am--late, daily. Dinner for two, LE150. By Waleed Marzouk
