Restaurant review: Euphony on the edge Gamal Nkrumah dines in the periphery of the Egyptian capital sampling Pekinese delicacies and savouring the strains of classical Chinese music Those who have ever taken an interest in Chinese cuisine in Cairo will most likely have come across one or the other of the Peking Chinese chain of restaurants. Waiting staff in Peking restaurants have always believed that they have to put on an act. Last week, they needn't have: an orchestra playing classical Chinese music arrived in Cairo amid much pomp and ceremony. The successful Peking restaurateurs have adopted this musical approach even as the chefs have expanded their culinary horizons. Peking's latest showcase also happens to be one of its most expensive openings in the less well represented parts of Cairo including the satellite cities of the metropolis. The new restaurant is situated on the ground flour of the Seven Stars Mall, Katameya. And menus have become infinitely more intricate. The location of the new restaurant reflects how crowded Cairo proper has become and how difficult it is to find a good restaurant site within the old parameters of the core areas of the Egyptian capital. Peking Katameya is undoubtedly one of the notable gourmet openings of the year. Peking Katameya opened in Ramadan, barely a month ago, and has been going from strength to strength. It is, moreover, decidedly different from other Peking restaurants. I studied the menu, which is long, trying to focus on food, a bit overwhelmed by the Jilin Orchestra, one of China's most renowned musical troupes performing at the Peking Katameya in celebration of the 60th anniversary of the National Day of the People's Republic of China. My spirits soar with the rising strains of the Jilin musicians. As we listen intently to the rapturous music showering the showroom in torrents, the dishes rain down, too, and all sorts of little plates with Chinese delicacies are laid in front of us. This is an excellent new eatery. And, while it offers much the same menu found in the numerous other Peking outlets scattered around Cairo and the country at large, Peking Katameya is special in many unique ways. Sun-kissed Katameya is next to the Canadian Al-Ahram University, but is also in the vicinity of other institutions of higher learning including the plush new campus of the American University in Cairo, the British University in Egypt and the German University in Cairo. Peking in a Box, a special Chinese fast food service, caters to youngsters and the young at heart who prefer the fast food option -- Chinese-style, of course. No other Peking restaurant in Cairo offers this intriguing option. We gave it a miss, anyway. However, we were determined to try the Tea House, which accommodates no less than 40 people, and serves all sorts of exquisite Chinese teas together with doughnuts and patties. But that is not a barrier to entry for those who have already enjoyed a sumptuous Chinese meal and wish to relax in a more serene atmosphere sipping their favourite Chinese tea and savouring their choice dessert. We were not disappointed. My companion doesn't follow through with any choices and so I ask the waiter if he could choose something for us. Stewed veal with water chestnuts and Chinese mushrooms is especially delightful, we were told. Then there was Prawn Kun Pao -- spicy with peanuts. With the menus taken away we turn our attention once again to the extraordinary musical talents of the Jilin Orchestra. One of the aims of the show is to go beyond the normal cultural boundaries, to bring all sorts of people together to foster dialogue and exchange. This was a memorable experience. There is still some steamed wun ton that neither my companion nor I have touched. And there was some Peking salad -- rocket with glass noodles and Chinese mushrooms. Then, of course, the side dish -- green beans with black mushrooms and garlic -- was hungrily devoured without further interruptions to the music. Peking Katameya Seven Stars Mall, Katameya Tel: 2619 0613/4 Dinner for two: LE270
