Restaurant review: The mesmerising Moroccan Relishing a gustatory getaway, Gamal Nkrumah discovers more than Morocco's most famous dish on the menu As dusk transforms the spectacular Nile vistas, a magical Moroccan gastronomic moment unfolds. My two sons and I head for the south-facing terrace of the Moroccan, to a delightful spot that reintroduces civility to millennia-old Cairo. The diners troop in, jockeying to grab Nile-view tables after nine. Dauntingly luxurious, this restaurant is the top Cairo haunt for Epicurean Moroccan fare. Egypt might well be the cradle of civilisation, but in this day and age, I personally fancy enchanting Morocco, a most civilising influence. Arabesques, mashrabiyas, and marble colonnades grace this out-of-this-world place where the strict culinary code of classical Andalusian cuisine predominates and permeates every morsel on offer. Just about every other dish came with multiple ingredients and a variety of tastes. "Mint tea for two, please," Karim smiled expectantly, anticipating a novel experience. I had lectured him about the marvels of Moroccan tea, an edifying brew if there is any. Mint tea with pine nuts is a heavenly Moroccan specialty that defies definition. Indeed, for an entirely different experience try the plush Sud restaurant, Sofitel Al-Gezirah. Facing the Grand Hyatt and the Four Seasons, this eatery hugging the waterfront, with the Nile waters lapping at its portals, this exquisitely furnished gem, has one of the most breath-taking panoramas in Egypt. Cairo constantly compresses itself, but not this oasis of tranquillity. The reassuring aspect of Sofitel, I reckon, is that it is a sheer pleasure for those who want to get to that little tip on the scenic island in the heart of the Nile in order to encounter as few cars as possible. This is a rare experience in bustling Cairo because the road leading up to the Sofitel looks more like a country lane than an urban thoroughfare. No parents are screaming at their children to get out of the way of speeding vehicles. It is Cairo chilled out. And, one of the by-products of such serenity is the playful encouragement of eye contact. The clientele, well- heeled Egyptians, European diplomats and Gulf Arabs, are in themselves a feast for the eye. My sons canvass the moneyed lot. The food arrives and Karim persuades me to share forkfuls of his pastilla puff pastry, which are luscious and delicious. Some pastillas are savoury (Karim's favourite was the juiciest stuffed seafood) and the others sweet (almonds and syrupy sweet cream). Youssef greedily eyed his seabass with plums and caramelised onions. A dish as delicious as it was ingenious. "I'm going to eat all the food on the table," he promptly declared. He tucked in. Dazed by his pace, I pick on Fassi classics, from the handsome, historic city of Fez, include honeyed tomatoes, carrots cooked with cinnamon and orange and sweet potato with raisins. But he breaks off quickly. He was glued to the fuffy couscous. The terracotta tagine dishes are divine. We turn to our respective fare. Morocco is famous for its irresistible ambrosial tagines made with a delectable combination of fruit and nuts -- apricots, peach and prunes. Sud is famous for its tiger prawn tagines and couscous royal. Savour the Moroccan delicacies while listening to the spellbinding strains of Gnaoua music. B'stela, a meillefeuille of succulent pigeon meat, almonds, pistachio and assorted nuts, wild honey, and a motley of spices was unfortunately not on the menu. The aromatic compositions of exquisite Moroccan Epicurean classics are characterised by spectral concoctions of aromatic and multi-layered savoury and sweet compositions that are completely alien to the traditional Egyptian palate. For the squeamish, lambs' brains might be a tad too incongruous. That, fortunately, was not on the menu. The gastro-sophistication of Moroccan cuisine is astonishing. Muslim exiles from Andalusia introduced many new dishes to the Moorish cuisine of North Africa. The new Moroccan restaurant at Sofitel Al-Gezirah is evocative of the mesmerising drummers, storytellers and snake- charmers of Marrakech. Dinner at the Moroccan restaurant in Sofitel Al-Gezirah provides memorable gourmet moments. Sud Restaurant Sofitel Al-Gezirah Dinner for three: LE400 Tel: 2737 3737
