Restaurant review: Persian as pomegranates Gamal Nkrumah savours jewelled pilafs and delightful khoreshts in the heart of Mohandessin There is nothing new in the proud Persians turning to avant garde Arab entrepreneurs to help forge themselves a new cultural identity. However, while Persian cuisine is renowned worldwide for its sophistication, I am afraid the Gulf Arab cuisine is restricted to the kabsah, a heavily-spiced rice and meat dish. Small wonder, the Arabian peninsula is a bleak, arid wasteland with a few oases scattered here and there. Iran, on the other hand, is a sprawling country of strikingly different geographical regions and a profusion of ethnic groups. It is in this context that I was at first puzzled by the metamorphosis of an Iranian restaurant, Shiraz, into a curious mix of both Gulf Arab and Persian cuisine. Why on earth should a restaurant specialising in the ancient and magnificent conventions of Persian cuisine, one of the world's oldest and richest culinary tradition do such a thing. But, then upon second thought, there is perhaps a twisted logic to this odd transmutation. The Gulf itself epitomises the ancient rivalries between Arab and Persian. To Iranians, the Gulf is unquestionably Persian. To the Arabs, it is -- surprise, surprise -- Arab. However, as much as the Iranians look down on the Arabs, there is no escaping the fact that Arabs have, over the centuries, had a tremendous influence over Iran. The Farsi language of Iran was historically enriched by Arabic loan words, and the official religion of this great nation is Islam. This particular eatery is located in the heart of the upmarket Giza suburb of Mohandessin, an area which has traditionally been swamped by hordes of Gulf Arabs in the summer season. I suspect that in order to attract an Arabian Gulf clientele, the owner, the celebrated Kuwaiti-Iranian comedian Abdel-Hussein Abdel-Reda, changed its original Shiraz into Gulf. I, for one, think the most beautiful of Iranian cities was the more romantic name. But, I suppose "Gulf" is more politically correct in Mohandessin. Abdel-Reda is a legend in his own land, his comic impersonation of the late Iraqi leader Saddam Hussein, endeared him to millions across the Arab world. Or perhaps, his Iranian roots and Kuwaiti nationality conspired to make him the most likely candidate for the ownership of a Persian-Gulf Arab restaurant in Egypt. What an inspiration, and what a magnificent restaurant it turned out to be. The secret of the excellence of the food at Gulf is the expert hands of its chef, Abu Ali, an Egyptian who had worked in Kuwait for over three decades, where he learned the art of Persian cooking and returned to his native Egypt to teach his countrymen his newfound talent. The dishes this genius creates are literally out of this world. And, what is more, is that they never leave you out of pocket. Abu-Ali has been putting flesh on bones in this most enchanting of restaurants. The place is spotless and the service is swift. The decor is off-putting, though: the gaudiest, most revolting orange imaginable set off against a blinding gold that crops up in the oddest corners and crevices of this spacious, exotic eatery. The chairs are comfortable and the tables sizable. But, it is the food that is the most appealing aspect of this very special spot. It is not just delicious, it is simply divine. I had anticipated the sharbat-saz, mouthwatering juices of the freshest Iranian fruits and vegetables -- pomegranates, sour cherry, lettuce and cucumber. We ended up with the equally refreshing lemon and mint drink. The bread is freshly baked and served piping hot -- you watch the bakers at work while the mouthwatering Iranian salads are served. The rice dishes and khoresht, or stews, of Persia are delectable. We opted for the khoresht ghormeh sabzi, fresh herb and lamb stew. The dish is called the "seven herbs" and it is said to be medicinal. The mountain herbs of Iran are as tasty as they are reinvigorating. The meat simply melts in your mouth, and its luscious flavour is enhanced by the heavenly herbs it is soaked in. The secret of the celestial concoction, I was told by an Iranian friend, is not in the fresh fenugreek, spring onion or parsley, but in the blackened dried limes. Khoresht is the staple on which a proper Persian table is judged. Khoresht fesenjaan, pomegranate stew with ground walnuts, is another favourite of mine. And, khoresht karafs, celery stew, yet another all-time favourite. Quince, dried apricots, prunes, plums and pomegranates are used extensively in Persian cuisine, but the true pride of Persian cooking is in the perfumed polow, or rice. The Gulf Tel: 30426 29/ 345 6958 84 Shehab Street, Mohandessin, Cairo
