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The places to be ...and what to see
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 19 - 01 - 2006


Cairo
AL-QAHIRA is Egypt's capital and the largest city in the Middle East and Africa. A pivotal city linking Europe, Africa and Asia, it is a vibrant, exotic metropolis thriving with culture, energy and life. Cairo, in essence, represents the embodiment of 5,000 years of civilisation, and plays host to 26 per cent of Egypt's population.
It is a true melting pot of different cultures and civilisations, where Pharaonic, Graeco-Roman, Coptic and Islamic landmarks co-exist, and where history and modernity are blended in astounding and, occasionally hectic harmony. There are ancient sites and old souks, quarters and alleys, as well as modern buildings, five-star hotels, shopping malls, restaurants, cinemas and theatres.
In Cairo, it's possible to spend the morning at a Pharaonic site or stroll through a mediaeval quarter, have lunch in an Italian restaurant, shop in Khan Al-Khalili and watch a belly-dancer or attend a concert in the Opera House at night.
The core foundations of the city of Cairo were laid in 969 AD by the Fatimid Dynasty, which set about building a new city which they called Al-Qahira (The Victorious). Although the Fatimids did not remain in power for long, their city grew under subsequent dynasties to become a capital of great wealth, filled with merchants from distant lands, laden with bazaars of exotic wares. Cairo eventually swelled, spreading north, spawning a port area, Bulaq to the west, extending south onto the island of Roda. But at its heart, it remained a mediaeval city for 900 years.
It was not until the reign of Khedive Ismail, grandson of Mohamed Ali, in the mid-19th century that Cairo started to change in any significant way. During his 16-year reign, Ismail invited architects from Belgium, France and Italy to design and build a new European-style Cairo beside the old Islamic City.
The city's uniqueness is derived from the fact that it suits all tastes. For culture and history fans, there are the Pyramids, the Sphinx, the Egyptian Museum, early Christian churches such as the Hanging Church and Saint Sergius, Mameluke and Ottoman mosques such as Sultan Hassan, Ibn Tulun and Al-Rifa'i, as well as the Citadel.
Ancient sites aside, Cairo is a city alive with activity 24 hours a day. On both banks of the Nile, there are restaurants that serve a variety of cuisines: Middle Eastern, Italian, French, Chinese and Japanese. There are also a number of floating restaurants where visitors can enjoy a wonderful meal during a two-hour cruise on the Nile. Most of these floating restaurants provide live music programmes, traditional dance shows and whirling dervish dancers.
For visitors who want to dance the night away, there are numerous upbeat restaurants, pubs, bars, nightclubs and discos. For those interested in the cultural side of the city, there are various cinemas, theatres, an Opera House, galleries and cultural centres. For those with children, there are a variety of amusement parks, gardens and fast food restaurants, all catering to children and their needs.
Shopping, of course, is a key aspect of any traveller's itinerary, and in Cairo it is a real experience, ranging from the world's oldest bazaar, Khan Al-Khalili, which offers magnificent arts and crafts, precious metalwork, perfumes, leather, carpets, and ceramics, to the modern, high-tech, air-conditioned malls featuring the latest fashions.
Alexandria
KNOWN as the "bride of the Mediterranean" Alexandria is the second largest city in Egypt, as well as the country's main seaport. Founded by Alexander the Great in 332 BC on the site of a small fishing village called Rhakotis, Alexandria was the capital of Egypt throughout the Ptolemaic reign.
Today, it is Egypt's premier summer resort, drawing millions of holiday makers annually to its long sandy beaches which extend over 140 kilometres along the Mediterranean from Abu Qir in the east to Al-Alamein and Sidi Abdel-Rahman in the west.
Located at the world's crossroads, the coastal city has always played a crucial role in global trade. Its intellectual standing has also mirrored its economic wealth. Ancient Alexandria became a renowned centre for scientific, philosophical and literary thought and debate. Its famed library contained 500,000 volumes, and its research institute, the Mouseion, produced some of the most scholarly works of the age. Today, the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, a modern reincarnation of the ancient library, has re-ignited the city's reputation as a meeting ground for historians, philosophers, artists, scientists and mathematicians.
Thanks to the large number of immigrants who called the city their home over the last few centuries, Alexandrian society has always featured a mix of diverse cultures. This has created a strong Mediterranean ambiance that is clearly embodied in the distinctive architectural design of its buildings, and its Greek and Italian style restaurants, shops and coffee houses.
The history of Alexandria is, in fact, a record of the continuity of civilisation in all its guises -- politics, art, music, literature and science. This is clear in the countless relics it hosts -- artifacts that date to the Graeco-Roman, Mameluke, and Ottoman eras. Amongst its most famous sites are the catacombs, the Roman amphitheatre, Pompeii's pillar, the Graeco-Roman Museum, the fort of Qait Bey, the Royal Jewellery Museum and Montazah Palace with its magnificent gardens and royal palaces.
The extensive underwater archaeological excavations in the eastern harbour and Abu Qir have also brought the spotlight to Alexandria in recent years, rekindling global interest in Cleopatra and the Ptolemies. From deep in the sea, excavators have successfully brought to surface various sphinxes, obelisks, columns, pottery and statues, which are now on display in Alexandria's Roman Theatre. A further exciting discovery is the lost city of Heracleon, located six kilometres away from the coastline.
After a day of excursions or research, one can have lunch in one of the many fish restaurants that are scattered around Alexandria in the Bahari district near the Qait Bey fort. Shopping around Ramleh Station, Saad Zaghloul Street, Zanqet Al-Setat and Attareen (known for selling antiques) is also a leisurely option.
Ismailia
THE "City of Gardens and Flowers" Ismailia is the capital city of the Suez Canal region, lying midway between Port Said and Suez on the western shores of Al-Temsah (Crocodile) Lake, 120km from Cairo.
Founded by and named after Khedive Ismail while the Suez Canal was being dug in the 1860s, the town was mainly built to accommodate the foreign employees of the Suez Canal Company, of which Ferdinand de Lesseps was the director. This historic foreign presence explains the colonial European architectural style that dominates the city. A stroll around Ismailia's elegant streets, with its beautiful old villas laid out on shady tree-lined grids, can be an unexpected pleasure. There are also several nice beaches around Temsah Lake, 12km southeast of the town.
Ismailia has a small but interesting museum housing more than 4000 objects from Pharaonic and Graeco-Roman times. There are statues, scarabs, and records of the first canal, built between the Bitter Lakes and Bubastis by the Persian ruler Darius. The highlight of the collection is a fourth-century AD mosaic depicting characters from Greek and Roman mythology. Other sections cover the canal in modern history, the Battle of Ismailia and the "Crossing" of October 1973.
De Lesseps' House is another attraction. Inside the grounds is de Lesseps' private carriage, encased in glass. His bedroom looks as if it has hardly been touched; old photos, books and various utensils are scattered around the desk by his bed and on the floor.
Other tourist attractions include the Unknown Soldier Memorial, the October 1973 War Memorial, the Catholic Church that was built in 1930, and the Cultural Theatre.
A visitor can wander amidst the 500 acres of exotic shrubs and trees of Mallaha Park, or cross alongside the shady sweet water canal that was dug to provide fresh water for labourers building the Suez Canal.
There are East Delta and West Delta buses that travel frequently between Ismailia and Cairo, Port Said, Suez and Sharm El-Sheikh and Alexandria.
Port Said
STANDING at the northern gate of the Suez Canal, Port Said is the second most important Egyptian port after Alexandria. Situated on a narrow peninsula between Lake Manzala and the Mediterranean, Port Said was founded in 1859, five years after the Suez Canal project was negotiated. It was named after Said Pasha, then Khedive of Egypt.
Just two hours from Cairo, Port Said enjoys a Mediterranean climate throughout the year. Famous as a summer resort, the city is also idyllic in the winter, offering a year- round pedestrian and children-friendly retreat. Visitors can promenade along the Corniche, or near the National Museum, watching vessels arrive at their destination via the Suez Canal.
In 1976, Port Said was declared a duty-free zone, leading to its attraction as a shopping haven for Egyptians and foreign residents. Al-Toggar Street is the most famous shopping area in the city.
One of Port Said's most captivating elements is the fact that it is surrounded by water, with the Mediterranean to the north, Lake Manzala to the southwest, and the Suez Canal separating it from Port Fouad, Port Said's sister town on the eastern bank of the canal.
For those interested in architecture, Port Said offers rich 19th-century European style -- the five-storey belle époque buildings with their wooden balconies and high verandas providing a whimsical entrée into another time.
The Military Museum, on 23 July Street, is one sightseeing option. Inaugurated in 1964, the museum has paintings and dioramas of the Egypt-Israel wars in 1956, 1967 and 1973. There are exhibits of Pharaonic warfare as well. On the same street lies the National Museum which contains a collection of artifacts dating from prehistoric, Pharaonic, Coptic, and Islamic periods and covers the history of the digging of the Suez Canal.
In Al-Messallah Square, Al-Nasr Museum offers pictures of Egyptian heroism against the tripartite aggression of 1956. Also, there is a memorial of the Unknown Solider for the heroes and martyrs of Port Said.
There are a number of protected areas in Port Said such as Al-Gamil, a splendid beach near Manzallah Lake, 12km west of Port Said, an ideal spot for fishing. Tanees Island is another protected area that lies in the middle of Manzallah Lake, 9km from Port Said, and can be reached by boats.
From Port Said, visitors can head to Port Fouad, founded in 1927 as a suburb for Suez Canal Company bureaucrats. It lies on the eastern side of the canal and is distinct because of its expanses of green surfaces and wonderful beaches such as Al-Tafri'a and Al-Zayeem.
From Port Said visitors can travel to Cairo and Alexandria via the Super Jet and West Delta buses. There are also West Delta buses to Ismailia, Suez and Al-Arish in north Sinai.
Out to eat
Cairo : Everything from international to Oriental, French to Chinese, sushi to fast food. Examples: Alfy Bey, downtown (Oriental dishes, lamb chops, kebab, grilled chicken or stuffed pigeons); Peking, Zamalek (Chinese); La Casetta, Heliopolis (Italian); Chilli's, Maadi, Zamalek and Heliopolis (Tex-Mex); Shabrawi, Heliopolis and Omda, Mohandessin (traditional meals of fuul and tamiyya).
Alexandria : Seafood at Qaddura in Bahari, the Fish Market in the Eastern Harbour, Sea Gull on the Road to Agami, Samakmak in Qasr Al-Tin, and Zeferion in Abu Qir. Greek restaurants include Trianon and Pastrodius. Oriental food outlets include Safwani, Tekkia, and Andrea. Fast food options are KFC, MacDonald's, Pizza Hut and Tikka Grill.
Port Said : Seafood restaurants are scattered generously around the city, the most famous of which are Abu Essam, Giannola, Kasten and Al-Borg in Tarh Al-Bahr Street, and Al-Gendy in Port Fouad. Coffee shops include Al-Sohbageya at the Helnan Hotel and Rigina at the Noras Beach Hotel.
Ismailia : Fish restaurants offer fish straight from the lake; Al-Gandool, Nefertari's, George's and King Edward Restaurants. Fast food includes Pizza Inn and Felafel Restaurant. For kushari, try Chief Café.


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