ALEXANDRIA, Egypt: No visit to Egypt is complete without a tour of Alexandria. Being considerably smaller than Cairo, its sights and museums can be seen in two days. However, some of its beauty and history can be delved into in just under two hours; specifically in 108 minutes. Let's go! This is where Alexander settled and where all its Graeco-Roman landmarks are present. It also offers a glimpse of Alexandria's Islamic and modern history. Any tour of Alexandria should start at Qaitbay Castle, located in the eastern quarter of Anfushi. The Mameluke Sultan Qaitbay was built it in the 15th century on the island of Pharos, where the lighthouse once stood. Most of its former glory is lost now, but its majestic presence is still felt as it overlooks the sea. You can go into the castle itself and wander through its corridors, though all the artifacts in it have been removed. Old cannons greet visitors as they enter the fortress that once guarded Alexandria against the Turks. Alongside Qaitbay castle is a wave breaker that extends for several meters into the sea. You will find the souvenirs available in tourist bazaars all over Egypt; pyramids, scarabs, sphinxes and obelisks. What stand out are those souvenirs unique to Alexandria. Massive seashells, oysters and starfish are waiting to test your bargaining skills. If you enjoy shisha, order one and inhale deeply while you watch the waves slap against the rocks. The more adventurous will shun the plastic chairs made available by the street vendors and opt to move deeper into the sea. Sit on the farthest rocks and get drunk on the salty air while you sip a soft drink, also provided by street vendors that will stop by you periodically to offer you one. Turn your back on the castle and head west for the Corniche. No visit to Alexandria is complete without even a short walk by the sea. A stroll along the Corniche through the Bahari area is always interesting. The sea at Bahari is usually calm. A myriad of sights can be seen as you look at the sea. Close by, Qaitbay castle is clearly visible, through a scene dotted with countless feluccas, fishing boats and sailboats. To the west, the massive San Stefano Mall looms in the distance like a monster, its characteristic ceiling lights distinguishable miles away. In about ten minutes, you've reached the mosque of Sidi Abu al-Abbas al Mursi, where you'll cross the Corniche and walk towards the mosque. There is a small square called Midan al-Masajid, named so because of the three mosques that distinguish the Bahari skyline. A plethora of minarets and domes shoot upwards into the sky, a testament to the Muslim scholars and saints buried underneath them. Of all three mosques, by far the most impressive is Abu al-Abbas. It is named after the Spanish Muslim scholar who lived in Alexandria during the thirteenth century and who is buried underneath. Most of the current mosque, however, dates to 1775, with periodic restorations performed, the last of which was by King Farouk, in 1943. A quick walk inside the mosque is definitely worth it. Relax for a few moments at the foot of any of the massive pillars supporting the mosque. In 108 minutes, there is no time to visit the museums or the Graeco-Roman landmarks of Alexandria, at least on this tour, but it is certainly enough to get a true feel of what Alexandria is all about. BM
