Restaurant review: The Italian masters Gamal Nkrumah relishes the tastes of Italy Normally, I avoid restaurants in hotels. L'Italiano was different though. Carpaccio, the paper-thin slices of raw beef, is an Italian delicacy that I have a weakness for. When I spotted it on the menu, I couldn't resist the restaurant. Then there was the Florentine focaccia -- crisp and puffy with a soft and fragrant bottom. The bread embedded with dark florets of lightly roasted and aromatic thyme. Was this Heaven, I wondered. And the faint perfume of the sea in the delicate flesh of the fresh white fish -- the juiciest seabass I have ever come across. I queried if they served focaccia con la Cipolla (onion topped), the traditional sendoff of the Ligurian sailors. "No, I am afraid not," the waiter pulled a face. "Ah, what a shame," I sighed in disdain. I was yearning for the northern Italian delicacy. I find it astounding that many of the richer northern Italian dishes are oddly enough reminiscent of West African stews. Then there are the porridge-like dishes served with accompanying stews. Polenta (boiled cornmeal), for example, closely resembles the sadza of Zimbabwe, the mealie pap of South Africa and the fufu (made with plantains and yams) of Ghana and other coastal West African countries. Perhaps, that is why I am so fond of these dishes. I take the first piquant mouthful of one of the finest nibble foods ever invented: gnocchi do polenta con Parmaguao, or Burro Proscuito. My sons were in the pool, having a whale of a time. I excused myself and asked the headwaiter, an affable middle-aged man, much like myself, if I could call my sons to sample such delightful delicacies. He warmly obliged. "Listen, get out of the pool, wrap yourself with a towel, and join me in the Italian eatery. It's a fantastic restaurant, the food simply divine." They tried to splash me, enjoying their romp. "Out of the water. Right now -- this very moment," I pretended to sound fierce. They did not regret interrupting their water games. The menu was replete with the most mouthwatering dishes and I was at a loss, literally spoilt for choice. I finally made up my mind: Grigliata Mista al Porto di Alessandria -- grilled seafood from the port of Alexandria. The fish was cooked to perfection and it left a tingle on the tongue. I desire more. Carpaccio di Polipo, marinated octopus seasoned with garnished parmesan shavings and lavishly washed with lemon? As it turned out, there was no fresh octopus on that particular day. Carpaccio do Manza -- raw beef fillet, thinly sliced, drizzled with olive oil, pink pepper rucola and Parmesan shavings was on offer. The plush pink and gold setting is inviting in spite of the kitsch. The menu of L'Italiano offers a seductive portfolio of Italian delicacies: Bruschetta, Insalata Estive con Salmone Marinato, Ravioli con ricotta e spinadi -- homemade spinach and cheese dumplings with choice of red (tomato-based) or white (cream-based) sauce. Ravioli was once the food of the poor peasants of Italy. They could afford no meat, and so ravioli was frugal peasant food. Ravioli, stuffed pasta, derives from the verb "to wrap". The Ligurians claim they invented it. Other Italians might dispute this. But at L'Italiano, I had no time to get into the nitty gritty of Italian regional politics. What is of note is that the Italians ate ravioli on fasting days -- on Fridays and Lent, when no meat was permitted. Therefore traditional ravioli is often filled with greens and cheese. Risotto di frutti di mare is a distinctive dish of northern Italy, one of the pillars of Milanese cuisine. The risotto of Piedmont and Lombardy are unique -- the rice must be toasted. Costoletta Milanese -- a veal chop on a bed of spaghetti drenched in a tasty tomato sauce. Headwaiter Ahmed Abu Zeid lived in England for a few years, so we had a chat about the pros and cons of life in London. We both concurred that Cairo was far better, in spite of everything. "Could you have such a meal for so little in London? Imagine how much this lunch would cost in a Mayfair eatery," he chuckled. "Absolutely," I giggled. Let's round it off with cassata chocolate and vanilla ice cream with candied fruit or perhaps the traditional Italian chocolate sweet zuccotto. L'italiano,Concorde Al-Salam Hotel Cairo Abdel-Hamid Badawi St, Heliopolis Tel: 02 262 26037 Lunch for two: LE166
