Restaurant review: Joyeux No�l Gamal Nkrumah meets a French chef whose fusion cooking has been the delight of Maadi expatriates Even before I walk into Le Clovis, I can smell the mouthwatering special Christmas items, served this evening as a rehearsal for the real night to remember. The aroma is overpowering; the atmosphere bewitching. The " réveillons " , as the French say, are irresistible. A réveillon, of course, is a long, lazy dinner held on the evening preceding Christmas Day that lasts well past midnight. It derives from the French réveil -- to be awake. And, wide awake you must be to sample the delicacies on display. But, first things first: the apéritif. Kir, a naughty mix of wine and blackcurrant liqueur, which becomes "royal" when the wine is substituted by champagne, is a favourite in France. Then there is the starter, the entrée. The first course in France on the Christmas dinner menu is foie gras, of course. However, if for the health conscious gourmet diner the wickedly rich goose liver is unacceptable, then the saumon fumé (smoked salmon) option would do quite well. A seafood or shellfish starter is another alternative, such as the creamy sole fillet terrine, served warm. Carpaccio de boeuf, served cold, is an Italian- inspired entrée -- thinly-sliced beef "cooked" in lemon juice. Not my cup of tea. If you prefer an entrée that is served hot, then I suggest a good soufflé au fromage (cheese soufflé). Le Clovis, of course, is no ordinary French restaurant. The French chef, Bruno, is fond of fusion cooking and has been at Le Clovis for a year and a half now. Bruno enjoys mixing traditional French dishes with Asian, especially Thai, touches. The scenic Nile view is breathtaking. At sunset, the lilacs, rose-coloured hues, oranges and splashes of gold are exhilarating. The feluccas and date palms in the distance across the river reverberate an Egypt Eternal. Traditionally, the French have turkey or goose for Christmas, but at Le Clovis, it would be pan-fried ostrich steak for the main Christmas course. That is a novel idea, but then Chef Bruno has a flare for the anomalous. His specialty is nouvelle cuisine and fusion. "I use Asian ingredients such as ginger and lemon grass," he confides to Al-Ahram Weekly. The Béche de No�l, the traditional French Christmas dessert better known in the English-speaking world as the Yule log, or the Great Ashen Faggot, is a delightful end to a fabulous meal. The Yule log, I am assured, will be on the menu for Christmas Eve. Alternatively, the French end Christmas dinner with their profiterolles au chocolat, with its rich choux pastry drenched in a yummy vanilla ice cream and dark chocolate sauce. The British Christmas is replete with Christmas cakes, Christmas puddings and mince pies. Christmas cake comes with its candied orange peel, glace cherries, blanched almonds and other nuts, raisins and sultanas and black treacle, iced and decorated with robins, holly and mistletoe. Then there is the rich dark Christmas pudding, steamed on Christmas Day and served with brandy butter. I love this time of the year. Full of robust fare, Le Clovis is also planning a grand affair for New Year's Eve. A live band will entertain diners and the manager, Osama Kamal, promises enticing shimmies by belly-dancer Haifaa. Ironically, pagan and animist beliefs predominate in traditional Christmas celebrations. Yule log, which is meant to look like an oak log, hails back to ancient pantheistic religious beliefs. Indeed, the Germanic god Thor is closely associated with the mighty oak trees, ancient forests and sacred groves. So the Béche de No�l of the French Christmas, a delicious vestige of the distant past, will be served on Christmas Eve at Le Clovis. Poached fruit French-style, such as pear poached in white wine, is a low-fat and utterly delectable alternative. Le Clovis opens daily from 7-11pm. For Christmas and New Year's Eve, the réveillons will last a little longer. Enjoy the celebrations and Merry Christmas everyone, or, as the French say, Joyeux No�l. Le Clovis Sofitel Maadi 29 Corniche Al-Nil, Maadi Tel: 252 60601/2 Dinner for two: LE350
