Restaurant review: Mamma mia A comely Cairene Italian restaurant comes alive with a new Lombard chef and exactly the right ingredients to enhance celebrated Italian delicacies, notes Gamal Nkrumah Designed with perhaps dandy saloon- bar raconteurs in mind, a typical diner at Pano Vino would be an expatriate who drinks heavily, holds his drink, endures hangovers with a succession of drop dead beauties, both local and foreign. The clientele, tellingly, is overwhelmingly Gulf Arab -- at least during lunchtime. In the evenings, diners are more cosmopolitan. Whoever arranged the décor has an eye for detail. The panoramic views of the Nile are evocative of an age bygone, and yet the Pane Vino is a most modern spot. Gluttony may not be much of a cardinal sin these days, but pizza and pasta are popular with Italian food lovers. The wine list is impressive and certainly not restricted to Italian reds, whites and roses. There is something most peculiar about this particular Italian restaurant in the heart of Cairo. One instinctively feels that this is an eatery where the tangled love lives of the beautiful people are deliciously revealed. I look around me at the contented faces. It is the Italian in the air perhaps. Or is it the orange lanterns, the russet and ochre seats? Not necessarily outrageously bohemian, among the aficionados of Pano Vino would be glamorous actresses and dashing actors. It is a pretty posh sort of restaurant, full of character. Its defining quality, Italian chef Roberto Boggio, a newcomer I am told, is a charming fellow. He mingles among his customers, inquiring about the food and their favourite dishes. He also advises them what to eat and when. "Ossobucco is for the evening, too heavy for lunch. It takes a long time to prepare and so it is better to have it in the early evening," Boggio counsels. His culinary skills are beyond reproach. "With over 20 years of culinary expertise, I believe I have learnt a thing or two," he mumbles coyly in heavily-accented English. The Roberto Boggio extensive repertoire is part of the charm of the place. He creates a symphony of flavours and aromas for his pasta and pizza innovations. The waiters are friendly and eager to please. They vie with the chef for the attention of the diners. Boggio is a bundle of energy, he dashes from the kitchen to the breathtaking Nilotic vista of the Pane Vino. "Neapolitan," I venture. "No, Milanese," he grins. "No offence chef," I stutter. I hope he is not a member of the Northern League, I thought to myself. As the old Italian adage goes, Africa begins south of Rome. I cast my mind back and recalled the juicy flavours of Italian cuisine. "Meat or seafood?" He presents us with the menu. We look at it uncertainly. My companion and I are startled. The array of authentic Italian dishes on the menu is bewildering. First, the olive oil and freshly baked bread is absolutely scrumptious. Pizza alle Diavola is a mouth-watering dish consisting of sausage, onion, chili, spice, garlic, mozzarella and tomato. Boggio spares no spice. Mamma mia, the Frutti di Mare and Pizza Napoli are delightful, with capers and anchovies and mouthwatering aromas. The Pizza alla Calabrase, with beef salami and mushrooms, is another southern Italian delicacy. We were spoilt for choice. Finally my companion opted for the "smoked pizza", consisting of eggplant and smoked provolone cheese. I wish I had room for the Pizza Biancaneve, topped with white cheese, white cream, goat cheese and nuts. Then there was the Risotto con gamberi e zucchini, the prawn risotto recommended by the chef. We toyed, too, with the idea of the Zuppa di peasce, seafood soup, and the bubbly Italian chef assured us that it is "excellent". A bit of broccoli is not much in the way of protein. I settled on the Ossobucco alla Milanese -- braised veal shank, served with light vegetable. As we were leaving, I couldn't help a quick look in the kitchen. Baggio was preparing his specialty -- the ossobucco. I asked him what his secret was. "I cook it slowly; the bone marrow is behind the irresistible taste of this special Milanese dish," Baggio brimmed with pride. I made a mental note to return some early evening to verify. Pano Vino Semiramis InterContinental Tel: 2797 1818/2795 7171 Dinner for two: LE290
