Restaurant review: Tuck in, Thomas Gamal Nkrumah aversely welcomes anchovies and batarekh to his table at Maison Thomas and finds it a fishy business The Maadi outlet of the Maison Thomas is, in my humble opinion, far superior to the Zamalek original. The ambiance is superbly cosy and comfy. Maison Thomas, at least the Zamalek eatery, dates back to 1922, a venerable Cairene establishment. Neither the Zamalek nor the Maadi outlets, though, are for those who watch their figures. They are ideal for youngsters and adolescents who need all the energy in the form of carbohydrates and fats that they can consume. Its pizzas are tasty, but rich. A typical example is pizza Thomas: its topping is composed of no less than four different cheeses -- mozzarella, gouda, blue cheese and goat cheese -- plus tomato sauce, olive oil and oregano. Yummy, but sinful. A less cholesterol-laden version is Alfredo: mozzarella, garlic, basil, olive oil and oregano, equally mouth- watering, but far healthier. Another healthy and equally nourishing option is Paul's special: tomato sauce, mozzarella, fresh tomato cubes, onion and oregano. A fishy alternative is the Marinara: tomato sauce, mozzarella, squid (calamari), shrimps, anchovies and oregano. Frightfully fishy, but both scrumptious and nutritious. Ironically, what to my palate appears to be the most revolting combination on offer turns out to be the most expensive on the menu. It is none other than the so-called Salmon: tomato sauce, mozzarella, smoked salmon, onions, green peppers, sour cream, eggs, oregano and anise. I wonder who conjured up such a diabolical combination of ingredients? Still, I suppose it sells like hotcakes, otherwise it would long have been crossed off the menu. The omega-3 saturated oils of fatty fish are one of its most desirable assets. Rendering as much of these nutritious oils as possible is an important part of the cooking process, a perfect spread on pizza. They are exquisite accompaniments for the huge French baguette sandwiches of Maison Thomas. The "royal" is filled with batarekh (the ubiquitous Egyptian caviar) and far from being the poor man's caviar, in Egypt many a wealthy connoisseur of fishy delicacies gorges on batarekh, but the not-so-rich also occasionally savour this particular delicacy. The opening of the Maadi Thomas at the busy Cairo- Helwan Road, one of the thoroughfares of the southern Cairene leafy suburb, was greeted with much aplomb. Events such as these are also a huge boon for the expatriate community of Cairo, many of whom reside in the nearby plush Maadi neighbourhoods, precisely because such swank restaurants are convenient watering holes for them. They prosper commercially because there is a tendency to avoid at all costs the smoke-choked bars of Zamalek by the more health-conscious Maadi clientele. Indeed, the bar of the Maadi Maison Thomas is infinitely more attractive than its cramped Zamalek counterpart, invariably aromatised by pungent kitchen odours. The Maadi Maison Thomas, in sharp contrast, is spacious and attractively-furnished. The soft olive green and primrose décor add a classy touch to the place. The waiters, too, are pleasant and eager to please. The salads of Maison Thomas are somewhat too oily for my taste. The Thomas salad is original, more fruit than salad as far as I am concerned. It has chicken pieces, presumably roast chicken, drenched in a fruity concoction of cocktail sauce, pineapple, peaches, bananas, oranges and with a sprinkling of gouda cheese chunks to boot. What this meal taught me was that salads need not necessarily be savoury. However what impressed me the most were the "home-made" desserts, including the classic French apple tart, the pàte sablée and the tarte tatin, or rather La Mére Tatin, with its delicious caramelised apples. The chocolate mousse was plain and simple, yet decadent and delicious. My companion pronounced the chocolate caramel, the fabled Maison Thomas classic chocolate cake stuffed with caramel and walnut, absolutely irresistible. I was half expecting a Thomas version of a Japanese bento box to come with the bill. But, no such capricious flight of fancy materialised. The surprise was that cost of the meal was kind to the pocket. Maison Thomas Cairo-Helwan Road, Maadi Tel: 2324 3800/ 2525 6833/ 012 261 17054 Dinner for two: LE110
