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Restaurant review: All about aura
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 03 - 09 - 2009


Restaurant review:
All about aura
A traditional Arabian Iftar at Aura is seasoned with sentimentality, writes Gamal Nkrumah
Aura is an epiphany. It is, of course, Ramadan, but I am not ready to surrender this impossibly glamorous moment. Anything seems possible by the pool. The clouds are playing peek-a-boo around the penthouses of Cairo's -- or is it Giza's -- skyscrapers. The sunlight is playing on the Nile.
Aura is replete with glinting sunglasses, too-wide smiles and the unnerving din of braying voices waiting impatiently for Iftar, the breaking of the Muslim fast. Ramadan, this particular year, asserts itself in many not-so-subtle ways. Yet a trip to Aura Restaurant quickly disabuses visitors of any notion that Ramadan is only about feasting -- forget about the fasting. This is not the place to break your fast with a more traditional hearty Egyptian stew.
Spot the glitterati shopping in the fashionable boutiques lined with every designer from Pucci to Prada at the First Residence Mall. Be that as it may, in Aura there is plenty of room for quiet refuges away from the party dens of the stylish mall.
The food might be a tad overpriced, but you cannot honestly say that you leave the eatery hungry. You can, after all, sample some classical Ramadan dishes from all over the Arab world in some considerable style here. The stunning steel-and-glass towers of Giza are reflected in the pool.
In curious fashion, the lavish interior of the Four Seasons, First Residence, Giza, manages to be almost understated. This is only accentuated by the poolside on the fourth floor. It is a bright clear day, and as Iftar time approaches, the lights play tricks in the orange, rose and lilac skies just before dusk. The sun is setting and the skyscrapers appear as some gigantic white fangs of a prehistoric creature against the deep purplish red sky.
Five minutes later. I am sipping apricot juice -- not the sickly sweet variety served in cheap restaurants, but a refreshing sharp fruity concoction that quenches thirst with no aftertaste.
If you are after bright lights, the shopping mall is next door. Overlooking the luxurious pool and with panoramic views of the exquisite French Embassy grounds, Aura is an eatery for the non-conformist who insists on not giving up entirely the ordinariness of a pleasant poolside Iftar.
Seasoned lamb grilled on flat slabs of stones are placed on top of burning embers. To my utter amazement the main course consisted of kasba, the Saudi Arabian national dish -- variations of which are eaten in other Gulf Arab countries.
I select the first edibles that catch my eye from the extensive buffet selection. The inviting aroma of Dawoud Pasha kofta, coarsely ground meat with finely grated onion, garlic and nutmeg shaped into petite marble-sized balls drenched in a delectable tomato sauce tickled my taste buds. Goulash fingers with ground beef and sambusak (turnovers) with soft cheese and fresh mint filling were compellingly irresistible.
Slowly and deliberately dotting the qataif bil assag wil gibna (miniature pancakes filled with ground lamb and cheese) with a subdued delight that recalls a little girl absorbed in a pack of candy-coated nougat, my delightful companion was lost in a world of her own.
She suddenly swings around to discuss desserts. Dessert consisted of many familiar Ramadan treats and delicacies. My favourite was the crescent moon-shaped al-salooq -- the traditional Arabian cardamom deep fried pastries.
I, however, am not yet finished with the main course. Kasba, nicknamed the "Divine dish", of fragrant rice and succulent, slowly cooked and seasoned meat -- mutton, lamb or chicken, is an all-time favourite of mine. Black pepper, black lime, bay leaves, nutmeg, saffron, cloves, cinnamon and cardamom ensure that the rice is memorably flavoursome. The kabsa was delicious, peppered with pine nuts, chestnuts, almonds, walnuts, sultanas and raisins. The grilled meats were succulent and the chicken fatta was garlicky and delectable. Long-grain basmati rice turns golden brown with the saffron and other spices and the meat melts in your mouth. I look longingly at my full glass of apricot juice and down it as I request the bill.
We came for Iftar and ended up staying longer than we planned.
Aura Poolside Restaurant
Four Seasons at The First Residence, Giza
Iftar per person: LE270
Children: half price
Tel: 3573 1212


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