Memorabilia of the nation

Nevine El-Aref
Looking at the private possessions of famous people is not really my cup of tea. But since this new museum was officially opened only three weeks ago, I needed to look at its contents.
I reasoned that, since it covered an important phase in the history of Egypt -- the national movement against British colonisation in the early part of the 20th century -- it made a suitable outing for my nine-year-old daughter. Political history has just entered her school curriculum, and I could think of no better introduction than a visit to a memorial museum which narrates the history of four famous political leaders: Mustafa Kamil, Mohamed Farid, Abdel-Rahman El-Raf'i and Fathi Radwan.
Farah was delighted at the unexpected treat, and as we drove from Mohandessin to Salaheddin Square in the Citadel area, past Al-Hussein and Al-Azhar, she chattered away, pointing out the landmarks she recognised.
The traffic was heavy, and it took us a full hour to get through the crowded streets. As we passed the textile merchants displaying their wares along the pavement and the peddlers weaving their way through the crowds, I was surprised at her excitement. I had no idea that, while I had been following the last stages of restoration of the memorial museum, Farah had been doing her social studies homework.
She lapsed into silence as she took in the spectacle. I realised how, living in the heart of a concrete jungle as we do, there is little opportunity for a child to see the commercial and social lives of other parts of the city unless we parents make a special effort.
At last we stood before the elegant façade of the Mustafa Kamil mausoleum, which is set in a small garden enclosed by a tall iron fence. The single-storey edifice, built in the mid-20th century, was newly-painted in fresh white, and sported a thick wooden door with copper decorations.
We entered a vast, impressive vestibule with a white marble floor. I picked up a brochure. Over our heads, windows set into a lofty dome cast sun rays on a large marble sarcophagus which covers the final resting place of four of the leaders of Egyptian emancipation. The sarcophagus bears their names and dates of birth and death, written in gold.
Mustafa Kamil, the focus of the exhibits and after whom the museum is named, was the founder of the National Egyptian Movement. After studying law at Toulouse University he embarked on a journalistic career, writing columns critical of British colonialism in Egypt in Al-Ahram and Al-Mo'ayad. In 1893, Kamil succeeded in drawing together the various political movements under one umbrella group known as the "secret national party" and, through his columns and as a result of his personable nature, he gained the support of many French intellectuals some of whom became ardent supporters of the Egyptian nationalist cause. In 1900, he established the Al-Liwa' newspaper.
These were good years, but good times don't last forever and, in 1904, France and Britain signed their bilateral Entente Cordiale. British-Egyptian relations were thrown into further turmoil in 1906 by the notorious Dinshiway incident, when a misunderstanding over pigeon shooting in a village in the Nile Delta led to a cruel crackdown by the British on the perceived insurbordination of a group of villagers.
I toned down the information for Farah. I did not tell her that several people from the village had been summarily and unjustly executed. But I did say that, later, Kamil established the Egyptian National Party (Al-Watani), and that he died two months after it was inaugurated, and was buried beside his mother in the cemetery of Al-Imam Al-Shaf'i.
In 1949, a mausoleum was specially constructed in his name, and in February 1953, when his relics were transferred there, a special military funeral took place to mark the occasion. But since that day, the mausoleum has been closed to the public and the surrounding area was slowly becoming a garbage dump.
Last year, major restoration was carried out on the mausoleum. This fell within the framework of a plan set in motion by the Minister of Culture, Farouk Hosni, to build several such museums to commemorate such renowned Egyptian personalities as Ahmed Shawqi (whose Nile-side museum is in Giza), and Taha Hussein in Al-Haram (the Pyramids) area.
While I was reading the history of each of these late, great leaders aloud to my daughter, we met Hamdi Shehata, the head of the central administration office for museums and exhibits.
He told us the drainage system around the building had been upgraded, the surrounding area improved and damaged marble replaced. "The maintenance of these museums entails endless cleaning and polishing," he said.
Mohamed Farid represents the second stage of the political movement in Egypt. A close friend of Kamil, he continued to follow his stand against British colonialism. But by this time national movements were being curtailed, and he was imprisoned for six months. Shortly after that he was sent into exile, where he stayed until his death in 1919. He was buried in his family tomb, but in 1954 his mortal remains were transferred to the mausoleum beside those of Kamil.
My daughter appeared to lose interest in what I was saying, so I looked at the brochure I had picked up at the door. It reminded me that the third of the leaders, Abdel-Rahman El-Raf'i, had been an active member in the National Council and a reporter for Al-Liwa'. In 1949 he became minister of food supplies, and after the 1952 revolution he helped draw up the Egyptian Constitution. He was a prolific scholar, and among his many books is the series: The History of the National Movements. In 1966, it was decided that he deserved a place in the mausoleum alongside his elder professors.
The fourth memorial is to Fathi Radwan, a founder-member, in 1933, of the Misr Al-Fatat (young Egypt) group. In 1944 he joined Al-Watani Party. A prolific scholar, he wrote books about such famous political leaders as Gandhi and Talaat Harb. When he died in 1988 he was, in turn, buried beside his three compatriots.
The next two halls of the museum serve to display the private possessions of Egypt's national leaders. As we walked through, looking at the personal effects which once belonged to the leaders, we were taken back in time, back to the era of the monarchy and British colonialism. On exhibition in the first hall, devoted to Kamil, are a number of paintings featuring Kamil himself and major events that took place during his time. Also on show is a collection of private, hand-written letters to friends, and some of his opinion columns, as well as his desk, leather chair, his eyeglasses and several awards.
On the wall hangs a panoramic oil painting depicting the welcome accorded the political Wafd leader Saad Zaghloul upon his return to Alexandria from exile in 1923. The Kamil collection was assembled by the Mustafa Kamil Society for Social Development.
In the room opposite are items donated by relatives of the three other leaders, including chairs and leather-topped, French-polished desks, decorative screens, photographs and a rather splendid bronze bust of a distinguished Mohamed Farid.
The impression is that this office paraphernalia, while not offering a great many details of their personal lives, does give a glimpse of the political history of the time.
On the drive home, I pondered on the interest that will be generated by such museums. I had the feeling that my daughter had not taken in much, since she was silent throughout the tour and on our journey home. How wrong I was! No sooner did we enter the house than she rushed to her father and told him everything she had seen. I couldn't help but be surprised at how much she had absorbed.
Practical information
Mustafa Kamil Museum
Salaheddin Square
(3km from the Citadel)
Tel: 510 9943
Opening hours :
10am to 6pm every day except Monday
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