Some of the best Arab fashion designers paraded their creations down the catwalk in Egypt last week. Yasmine Fathi investigates the big business issues behind the pretty dresses How far has Arab haute couture come in the international world of fashion? Azya' Mode magazine attempted to provide an answer by sponsoring a fashion show last week presenting evening wear by Lebanese designers Fouad Sarkis, Zyad Antoun and Walid Atallah, and Egypt's Talaat Sharkas and Mohamed Dagher. The event was organised by United Media Egypt. For some people, the Arab world is synonymous with glamour and, as revealed by Mohamed Nahas, owner of Nahas Publishing House which produces Azya' Mode, many of the stars attending the Oscars ceremony are dressed by Arab designers. "Our eastern heritage has a rich history and we can definitely reflect that in our fashion," he said. In fact, some designers believe the Oriental touch is the key to achieving international recognition, a point not lost on fashion giant Ives Saint Laurent who has included a Middle Eastern flair in some of his designs. Arab designers, however, recognise the difficulty of merging cultures. "We shouldn't blend styles merely by combining Arabic jewellery with European dress. We need to concentrate on the actual design," explained Antoun. As leggy models walked up and down the catwalk, the designers stressed that their main fear was that their dresses should not "fit" the Egyptian woman "and we are not just talking size". "My dresses are for women who want to look beautiful and sexy but at the same time conservative," explained Sharkas. However, most dresses presented in the show were on the revealing side. "The dresses are breathtaking, and the colours are so fresh, but I wish they would not be so revealing," said Marwa Mohsen who was attending the show. "The majority of Egyptian women would not be seen walking around with a low-cut, backless, short dress or an open jacket with nothing but a bare chest underneath," she exclaimed. But the designers have another message. The revealing garments on display are merely eye-catchers, clients purchasing a garment can have the design adapted. "The models are just there to show the design. The dresses are meant to flatter 'normal' women," explained Atallah. There are, of course, many different fashion ideals throughout the Arab world, said Antoun. Lebanese women, he explained, love wearing the latest fashions, while Gulf women like to appear extravagant and striking. A woman's personality also comes into the equation. "As for Egyptian women: their skin tone makes them unique," he said, "that warm olive skin accentuates the colour of the fabric giving it a unique flavour. I've always wondered what my creations would look like on them." But who can afford such fashion? Atallah admits his dresses are not for everybody. "My wedding dresses usually cost in excess of $10,000; the most expensive dress I ever sold was for $1,200,000," he told reporters at the press conference prior to the show. While agreeing that the standard of Egyptian design had dropped, the Lebanese designers were nevertheless keen to show support for their Egyptian colleagues. "Egyptians have not been given the chance to display their creativity," is the explanation given by Atallah for the poor state of Egyptian fashion. But he is sure that the Egyptian industry has potential. The creators and artists are out there; they only need to be found. The two Egyptian designers taking part in the show explained that lack of support is keeping the industry down. "Everybody in Egypt likes soccer, but there's more to life," commented Dagher. Most people in Egypt have no idea what a fashion designer is, he said; most think a designer is just a tailor. The prevailing teaching methods also stifle any inkling of creativity. "The Egyptian design schools follow traditional methods," he explained. "One and one equals two: cut here and sew there and you have a dress. There is no room for creativity." But all this may change. A branch of the prestigious Institut Technique De La Mode, which has produced some of the leading names in the fashion industry, opened in Cairo in 2001. This is the only Middle Eastern branch of the French institute. "We follow the same programme as the institute in France, but at a much more affordable price. Egyptians can now learn the trade without having to spend thousands on schools abroad," explained the institute's director, Ali Houdroge. Egyptian designers face many more challenges than their Lebanese counterparts; poor schooling being just one of many. "When you buy fabric in Lebanon you can have the choice of 1,000 pieces," explained Sharkas. "But in Egypt you can have only 10 to choose from. It should be easier for us to travel as well as import fabrics," he explained. Not having exciting raw materials to choose from affects a designer's inspiration. "Designing depends very much on visual beauty; you need to have options if you want to create. Sometimes I see a small accessory and it inspires me. I can design a whole dress around a button I like," explained Dagher. However, George Shehada, a Lebanese designer who has been working successfully in Egypt for four years, pointed out that Egypt does, in fact, have a lot to offer. "The choices might be greater in Lebanon but here in Egypt the prices are lower. And why do we always forget to mention the excellent Egyptian cotton?" Besides, it is well-known that real talent can overcome all obstacles. "There was a famous sculptor who used the remains of old cars to create beautiful sculptures," pointed out Houdroge. "It's the same concept in fashion design, so let's not make too many excuses." According to Atallah, Egyptian women themselves are to blame for the uninspiring fashions. They are not as interested in fashion as other Arab women, taking more interest in their careers and families than in the world of haute couture. "In Lebanon, on the other hand, looking good is an important part of our social life," said Antoun. And then there is the question of taste. Or lack thereof, as Dagher sees it: "The fashion makers here in Egypt have poor taste, and this is transferred to the consumer. If 80 per cent of what you see is ugly, your taste will slowly turn ugly too." But Antoun feels things may be changing. "Egyptians are starting to become thirsty for fashion, and we're here to quench that thirst," he said. But for those newcomers to the world of fashion who are unsure of what to wear and how to wear it, Shehada has some sound advice. "The best solution is to play it safe," he advises. "You'll never go wrong with plain colours. Simplicity is the best recipe for beauty. Don't try to blend orange with fuschia, you might not get the results you wanted. Leave that to the experts," he insisted. And the veil, as well, is no excuse for a lacklustre appearance. "Look back at the beautiful head-dresses which used to be worn by veiled Turkish women. With a little taste, elegance can always be achieved," he said. But for the moment, the future of fashion in Egypt remains uncertain. Time will only tell if Egypt will one day be able to compete side by side with international designers. More fashion events, though, are being planned. United Media Egypt is organising a fashion week in September, and many more Lebanese and Egyptian designers will be given their chance to shine. "Events like this one will help push us to the top. They provide much-needed publicity," said Dagher. "We have the means and the talent; all we need to do is believe in ourselves," he said, smiling.
