Restaurant review: The Yemeni preference Peninsula mutton and madness in the kitchen For the past two years El Yemeni Restaurant on Iran St has enjoyed an admirable reputation among the ranks of the Dokki and Mohandessin eateries catering especially to our neighbouring Arab peninsula's fellow compatriots. Naturally, this is its busiest time of the year, and the large maroon sign, hovering over the slender Roman pillars and beige-&-ostentatious gold color scheme of the entrance, is hard to miss. My entourage and I sip lukewarm haneed (mutton) broth as we soak up the atmosphere. The large dining hall is done entirely in ceramics; salmon tiles cover the entire floor and the ones on the tables are a pale tangerine splotched with dark red, and yes, one does get the occasional sense of dining in a flamboyant Turkish hamam. Raucous Arab men in their blue collar apparel and dishdashas (the Gulf states' white version of the galabeya ) keep a steady eye on the pedestrians outside through the floor-to-ceiling glass panes, aided by the convoluted neon tubes jutting out of the ceiling. Their veiled counterparts are ushered into the adjacent extension of the establishment. Though women are allowed to dine in the hall, it's a local custom and preference, or at least one they've chosen to implement here. It's best to avoid the back section of the restaurant, home to the kitchen counter and bathrooms. Here the waiters and kitchen staff hurl vociferous verbal abuses at each other, and all the faucets hang onto their respective sinks by a thread. And though the high-octane chaos may result in the occasional slip-up (some of the utensils arrived greasy and were sent back for further cleansing) the service remains mostly uncompromised. The waiters move briskly, forever ready to switch to a congenial smile if prompted with the proper tone, laying big white sheets of paper down on the tables in anticipation of the mess to come. Vegetarians' tastiest bet is the green beans and eggs casserole. The large steel tagen and the 20-inch rashoush loaf (a thinner crispier naan ) are a match made in dipping heaven. The presentation is also a direct challenge to the patrons' machismo, so do likewise: roll up your sleeves and get your hands dirty scooping up those chunky mouthfuls. Carnivores hoping to indulge in the same unkempt activity can order a selta, a tagen of minced beef and mixed vegetables. A ground haneed meat-&-rice dish, zorbayan, is sizeable enough to serve as a full meal, but the house special, mandy mutton or chicken with rice, is by far its superior and the waiters are tentative about recommending anything else. The meat here comes in rough-edged chunks still steaming on the bone, and set on a bed of basmati rice (that embraces the entire warm end of the spectrum) with chicken liver and savory roasted raisins. And if the die-hard carnivores insist on cutting to the chase, an eighth of haneed, a singular broiled brick, can be ordered separately or with a side order of liver and lahm segheir, diced beef with potatoes, onions and green peppers. Alongside the green salad and sahawiq, a diced paste of tomatoes with onions and green peppers, the Yemeni version of helba contains a secret ingredient that the waiter cautions us could annihilate our appetite for the next three days, so be warned. This will also probably be your best opportunity to sample a novel Yemeni treat, the sweet Fattah. The choice is between dates, bananas and mutton broth, or a denser helping of dates ( tamr kebsah ) with honey. They're rich and filling, and overcome their shabby execution easily. It's customary to finally wash the whole meal down with tea and milk, settling your stomach as you as contemplate when next to host a " mandy party", taking full advantage of the establishment's catering service, and the gratuitous discount they provide. El Yemeni Restaurant 10 Iran St, Dokki Tel: 7498331, 010564020 Open 24 hours daily Dinner for two, LE80 The Yemeni preference ï Essential nursery furniture includes bassinet or cradle, crib, changing table with straps to keep the infant from slipping during a nappy change, chest of drawers, rocking chair or glider and baby monitor ï Even where a theme is not forthcoming, a nursery is best kept gender-neutral, with vibrant colours and fun accents like a sky ceiling or a tropical jungle wall. Buy the most versatile pieces: a plain, waist-high pine dresser, for example, can accompany the baby from her infancy to her teens ï To save money, avoid specialty stores, opting for furniture stores that sell unfinished wood pieces. You can also change the look of a room with minimal expense by concentrating on such details as drawer knobs, curtains or even paint borders. End-of-season sales offer affordable bedding, which can wholly alter the feel and look of a room By Waleed Marzouk
