There were traffic jams all the way from Al-Qalaa (the Citadel) to Bab el-Wazir in Fatimid Cairo as hoards of Egyptians went to the graveyards on the second day of Eid el-Adha (the Muslim Feast of Sacrifice). Carrying bouquets of flowers and meat loaves to be given as rahma (alms to bless the souls of the dead) to the poor, people of different ages and from all walks of life recited verses from the Holy Qur'an at the graves. The very same thing happened at the very same time at cemeteries nationwide. "My mother used to take me with her to recite the Fatiha [opening chapter of the Qur'an] for the soul of my grandmother. Now I go with my daughter. Next year, my family will visit my grave," an old woman with a frail, raw-boned body smilingly told a young lady, holding her hand and gently leading her to her family's tomb. "May Allah have mercy on you and lead you to His Paradise" is the most common prayer, said Hajj Nabil el-Sayegh, a retired 72-year-old military officer. "I come every feast to recite the Fatiha for my dead relatives buried here. I feel it is my duty," added Hajj Nabil. "I also come here on Eid el-Fitr [the Muslim feast marking the end of the holy fasting month of Ramadan]. It is an opportunity to see family members and to notice how the years have taken their toll on them." But why the feast? Shouldn't all these people be celebrating in other ways, rather than paying a visit to the dead? "Of course the feast is a joyful time too. Visiting cemeteries doesn't mean we are sad. Feasts are a public holiday for all. We can gather at one place, distribute alms and give money to the man who looks after the graves. It's not a bad tradition," said Sherif Zuheir, a 36-year-old engineer. "I don't stay here for long. I just recite the Fatiha, distribute alms and go back home. That's all," he added. As big crowds of people anywhere have their own needs, graveyards and their surroundings turn into a marketplace during the feasts. Along with flowers and plants, vendors also sell cold bottles of water, other soft drinks and snacks. "This is one of the most prosperous mornings of the year for cafés in the vicinity," says Shaaban Mahmoud, who works as a waiter in a café near a cemetery. "Most men visiting the graveyard have a break here to drink something and smoke. The first day of Eid el-Fitr and the second day of Eid el-Adha are very special for business," he explains. Although it is not desirable from a religious perspective to visit cemeteries on feast days, Sheikh Abdalla Hassan, a Muslim preacher, says it is optional. "People can visit graveyards all year round. Feasts are times for joy. Some people visit graveyards for charitable reasons and recite verses from the Holy Qur'an. They can do that anywhere anytime," he stresses. Abdo Megahed, who has been working as a graveyard attendant for over 30 years, says cemeteries are open for visitors all year. "But the Fitr and Adha feasts have a different meaning. It is more like people dedicating their time on the feasts to remember their loved ones and recite the Fatiha at their graves. "Most of the visitors are women. I don't like it as many of these women blab on and on for hours. Men are more thoughtful. They spend less time here and then go," he adds.
