108 minutes: Bethlehem

BETHLEHEM: Any planned trips into the West Bank require the admission that most people in the Middle East aren’t free to travel within Israel and even those that are, are daily subjected to delays, hassle, and worse at the border crossings. So for 108 minutes in Bethlehem, we do not take for granted the (literal) barriers currently obstructing everyday life.
Bethlehem is enigmatic. Its religious significance singles it out among the cities of the Occupied Territories. Unlike most others, it hosts a consistent flow of foreigners, providing what will be most tourists’ sole glimpse into life behind the towering wall built by the Israelis around much of the West Bank. The city underwent a makeover for the Pope’s visit in early 2009 but the wounds of the Occupation are un-concealable. Once my cab driver cynically wished aloud, “If only the Pope came everyday.”
Incubated in the tour buses, it is true that most pass through the city with blinders: to the Church of the Nativity and out. Our 108-minute jaunt through the most well known part of this famous “little town” hopes to highlight its multifarious nature. Bethlehem is simultaneously a thriving community, a tourist trap, a prison, and a piece of living art.
From the checkpoint, walk to the intersection of Pope Paul IV and Jamal Abdel Nasser. Along the short way, don’t neglect to look around. The Occupation Wall is overgrown with graffiti, a mix of creative, provoking images and uninteresting tourist tags that amount to little more than “Eric wuz here.” Try to spot the full collection of Banksy’s “Santa’s Ghetto” project which used its proceeds to sponsor university students in Bethlehem. Also be sure to find a newer installment and a favorite of mine, wheat-pastes (a kind of graffiti art) of Palestinians making tongue-in-cheek “tough” faces.
Once you reach the Pope Paul IV intersection, you’ll begin approaching the string of shops full of Christmas-kitsch and rainbows of kuffiyehs. Before you endure the gauntlet, peek your head into St. Mary’ Syrian Orthodox Church on your left. If you are lucky, one of the Church’s few priests may be preparing the altar while humming through the liturgy. Take a seat quietly in the back and peruse the iconography to the soundtrack of Syriac. After you’ve had enough of solace, take back to Pope Paul IV, going across it diagonally. With your first right you will find yourself in a humble and shaded souk, brimming with the fruits and vegetables of the season. Enjoy whatever looks most ripe and head back to the barrage of salesmen.
If you’ve made it to Manger Square without a kuffiyeh or nativity set, congratulations. Pick up a Falafel on your left and do not forget the harissa. To the left of the Church of the Nativity in front of you is a nice set of stairs giving view to the rest of Bethlehem, spread amongst the hills. Finish your meal and let your curiosity get the best of you and glance inside the Church.
Back towards the square, visit the recently erected information sign explaining the Occupation to pilgrims and tourists. Forgive yourself a depressing laugh as you see the throngs pass it by.
Ok, the jaunt has been short and simple. Inhale by finding a table at the modern looking café on the Square and saddle up at the bar for a beer or an espresso; there will be plenty to talk about.
** This was originally published on November 4, 2009.
BM