CAIRO: It's easy to get lost in the craziness that is Egypt's capital city, but an island in the Nile does offer some small semblance of calm away from the loud, constant honking streets that have come to be synonymous with Africa's largest city. Zamalek is one of the most expensive real estate areas of the country, with housing prices skyrocketing. The economic crisis has done little to lower them. It is the haven of foreigners, wealthy and middle-class Egyptians alike and there are few great spots that one could spend the afternoon, or morning, if only for 108 minutes. Let's hypothesize that we end up planted, by some miracle along the island's promenade – with downtown Cairo in view – and have little more than an hour and half to complete our journey. We'll see Gezira Club to our left – an open expanse of green that seems imposed on the fastness of the city that surrounds it. The bridges above bustle with traffic, but no worries, pay your ticket and take a stroll along the dirt path that leads to the residential area to the north. It is nice to relax, take in some “fresh” air and push out the city. We'll argue that our pace is quick and we get to the Marriott Hotel in about 20 minutes. Still some time to kill. There are really two options to go for here: the elite cafe/restaurant Sequoia on the northern tip of the island or the middle-class Goal cafe. Both are winners and can be tried. If the budget is tight, go for Goal, an indoor/outdoor street setting (air conditioning is on inside) that offers some quality shisha (water-pipe) for a reasonable price. If you come with a friend, tossing the dice around for some backgammon is always nice. The walk from the Marriot takes about 15 minutes and taking the 26th of July street – the main vein of Zamalek – we get to see the consumerism that is Egypt. Shops line the road every few steps and grabbing a water is not a bad idea. Goal is the traditional middle-class establishment. A clean interior, cheapish chairs and tables, this is a place to work, relax or just hang out with friends. The free Wi-Fi is a great addition in the “everything costs money” country that Egypt is becoming. This is a solid choice, but not nearly as spectacular as Sequoia just up the road. From the Marriott, go straight up the island, cross 26th of July, pass the Indian Embassy and curve around to Mohamed Mazhar street. Follow that past the Swedish Embassy – it's castle-like structure is pretty neat – until you get to the end of the line. Here, literally on the Nile, is one of Cairo's nicest and most expensive joints. The almost all-white (depending on whether it has been cleaned recently) chairs open onto a breathtaking view of Cairo's downtown promenade. Here (or at Goal) just relax. Order some food. They have a solid vegetarian salad for the afternoon and the place serves beer and wine. Time is of no concern, so we can spend the rest of our hour just relaxing by the Nile, watching the few boats pass by, sip on tea, beer or wine, puff back one of their dozens of shisha flavors and enjoy life in Cairo. Remember to take the credit card, as this place is not for the cheap. Usually a 100 LE minimum, that can be a turn-off for some, but the result, if not terribly crowded, can be a place to savor and keep coming back. Zamalek is truly the cafe-goers haven, with a place on nearly every corner, tucked in between residential building upon building. We come to Zamalek to relax and forget that 20 million people inhabit Cairo. BM
