Restaurant review: Ain't no sunshine Gamal Nkrumah savours Sohour on the banks of the Nile Noise is the curse of Cairo. The roar of traffic deafening, and the clamour of the crowds nightmarish. And more so during the rush hour before Iftar during Ramadan. However, by the Nile there is a deceptive calm. Tales of the riverbank abound. Fishermen in feluccas float gently by. They smile shyly and politely offer their greetings. It is a serene atmosphere, one of the reasons I headed out to Café Se Abdo. It is a pleasant place, simply furnished in a typical Egyptian khayameya (tent pavilion) style. Yes, we are in the midst of Ramadan and it is time to flee home and scurry in search of an agreeable eatery to nibble some edibles in preparation for the fast during the day. It is that time again, memorable and awe inspiring. Sunset by the river, the date palms in the horizon, comfortable bamboo seats. We sink in well-cushioned chairs and take in the magnificent view of the Nile and the west bank. We sip delicious freshly squeezed guava juice. Around us, women are smoking shisha, the hubble-bubble water-pipe. Whiffs of the distinct flavours fill the air. The preponderance of women smokers is bewildering and mildly amusing. So is this riverside restaurant facilitating an enjoyable and nourishing networking environment for the entrepreneurial women of Maadi? Perhaps it is the brave new world of sofa networking. Indeed, the striking characteristic of Café Se Abdo is that the clientele are predominantly female of all ages. "Is this a women-only restaurant? I mean where are all the menfolk? Husbands, fathers, big brothers ..." I ask the manager sheepishly. "We just launched our opening 10 days before Ramadan," Ashraf Salaheddin, the amiable manager explained, without answering the question. A friendly smile goes a long way. For the time being, Café Se Abdo serves only Sohour (late night Ramadan snack). I was ignorant of the fact when I stumbled upon the place. Then, Salaheddin had insisted that we join him for Iftar, but the ambiance was enchanting so we stayed on for Sohour as well. The blare of soap operas, the bark of stray dogs and the chatter of mobile phones all ensure that the ears of Cairenes stay permanently tuned. You cannot really escape the incessant noise of the city. For the romantic, the silence and solitude of the hour that immediately succeeds Iftar is soon forgotten. Two giant lanterns greet you as you approach the riverside eatery. Café Se Abdo is not noted for its innovative and excellent cuisine. It serves the usual unimaginative Sohour dishes -- fuul (fava beans), light egg dishes, and a motley of mezzas -- fried aubergines with chili, garlic, tomato and parsley is an all-time favourite. The babag hanoug is delectable and so are the hommus and tehina. The food is reasonably priced. In any case, after the heft of Iftar, Sohour should be light. Meals are served outdoors, and that is the prime consolation. The rear walls are studded with ceramic jars and typical Egyptian peasant earthenware. One need look no further than the palm trees on the west bank of the river. Be that as it may, don't get too close to the river. Try to miss all the ungainly eyesores: revolting plastic bags and soft-drinks cans washed up on the banks of the Nile, and the nauseating greenish murky waters of the river. My companion waves her hand at me in mock horror. "Let us enjoy the view from afar," she whispered. Which gives me ample time to look around. Heartfelt musings about love by the Nile, sleepless nights. The feluccas float by -- almost too excruciating to watch, but heavenly. Café Se Abdo is surely the perfect place to unwind in stylish comfort. Café Se Abdo Corniche Al-Nile, Maadi Opposite Coca Cola Depot Tel: 012 9825 162 Sohour for two: LE100
