Restaurant review: An old chestnut Sometimes a nutty Sohour can take you quite by surprise, muses Gamal Nkrumah "Oh, not that old chestnut again," I thought to myself when I heard that a brand new eatery -- effectively one of the Sheraton Cairo chain of restaurants -- was to open just before Ramadan. Still, I would say in my most self- depreciating fashion, I rushed to sample the Sohour delicacies that promised to taste more somewhat robust than the plain old chestnut. What have we here, then, I wondered? Next to the Cairo University Rowing Club, on the Nile, is the new gem, Bondokah, the Chestnut. This particular eatery belongs to the Sheraton Cairo, even though it is not within the confines of the twin towers of this plush five- star hotel. Off I went to find out for myself. It is Ramadan, after all, and futile promotional mania reigns. To my horror and utmost amazement, I was stopped dead in my tracks. Alas, there was a catch as far as Iftar was concerned. I had to bring along at least some 25 other partygoers, and preferably 50, I was bluntly told. Through the tricks of the trade, we wily newspapermen have our ways, I did manage to slip in -- all alone. Bondokah is more of a Sohour place. Still, I can assure you that sitting at the Nile waters' edge watching the line of olive foam where the waves break on Bondokah feels like tugging on a thread that leads all the way back to the days of A Thousand and One Nights. That is the very ambiance of the holy month. So greedily I sampled the Sohour spread, too. In Ramadan, you cannot dispense with a written menu. Everyone has his or her favourite Ramadan dish, however, more often than not the rest of the repertoire is neither anonymous nor unworthy of its perpetrator. Bondokah's Sohour began and ended very impressively. It was the leisurely evening par excellence. I spotted an old friend. We chatted away, sweet nothings and the conversation was relaxed and unhurried. It was the perfect Sohour. Then I bumped into another couple of old friends. There was a good deal to laugh at, including doting waiters who were obliged to moon around quite a lot. And, it went on as if forever. The night was still young. Up close and personal, the Sohour ritual metamorphoses into something memorable. Traditional Ramadan tunes filled the night air and everyone waxed lyrical. So what do you do if you happen to be in the vicinity of the Sheraton Cairo and fancy an extravagant Iftar? Alaa Al-Din is an excellent choice. The restaurant is perched on the second floor of the Old Tower of the Cairo Sheraton with panoramic views of the Nile and a charming oriental ambiance, an ideal Ramadan setting. Alaa Al-Din's set menu à la carte is superb. Then there is Arous Al-Nile (The Bride of the Nile) -- the third of the Sheraton's Ramadan trio. So does Sheraton Cairo's stylish trendy new outlet Bondokah pose a threat to the old Bride? Not quite. Each has its charms. The Sheraton Cairo eateries are renowned for the prodigious amounts of eating their clientele are capable of, especially during Ramadan. What caught my attention was that the waiters were far more alert and obliging after eight. Bondokah's charms lie in the very different reasons it offers to return. The interior is more than comfortable but obviously one of many and various and some downright barmy versions of the traditional Ramadan tent, albeit somewhat more upmarket. Yes Bondokah is palatable, even though Iftar is only served when the numbers are right. Please check for details with the General Manager of Bondokah Amr Ali El-Basha. He is amiable and friendly. His phone number is listed below. Do book well in advance. By the end of the sumptuous Iftar, all four of us had left our hearts at Bondokah albeit for different reasons. Bondokah Sheraton Cairo Midan Al-Galaa, Giza Tel: 3336-9700 For reservations contact Amr Ali 012 313 90227 Sohour per person: LE80; LE110; or LE130 Iftar per person: LE120; LE130; LE155; or LE165
