Restaurant review: Stella Indian-style Egypt's tandoori connoisseurs must take a curtain call, suggests Gamal Nkrumah Egyptians fail to give Indian cuisine its due recognition primarily because cutting edge cooking is about much more than taste. Furiously hot stews are the hallmark of Indian cuisine and Egyptian cuisine by comparison tends to be somewhat bland. There is also a widespread misconception that Indian food is invariably vegetarian. That is not strictly true. Yes, there are a number of very interesting Indian vegetarian dishes, but Indian cuisine does cater for carnivores, too. Take the Junglee maas, the famous game delicacy -- the skinned carcass of the prey caught by princely warriors of Rajesthan was smothered in ghee, salt and hot red chilies. Indeed, Rajasthan, although a predominantly Hindu state with a 10 per cent Muslim minority, has a unique cuisine. Don't bank on stumbling across the most exotic of Rajasthani cooking in Ain Al-Sukhna's Rajastan such as churma or lapsi. Egyptians are often horrified by the blistering spiciness of the Indian diet. For Egyptians, the garlicky tomato and chili concoction that drenches the lentil, chickpea, rice and pasta Egyptian dish of koshary is as hot as Egyptian cuisine gets. Chef Sangram of Stella di Mare's Rajastan notes that Indian cuisine is roughly divided into north and south with a motley of regional variations. "Egyptians tend to prefer north Indian cuisine because the food is generally less spicy," he observes. "The further south you go in India, the food tends to be very hot and dishes are prepared with coconut as opposed to the ghee, cream and yoghurt of the north," Sangram explains. North Indian cuisine is traditionally prepared with lashings of buttery dairy products and that seems to appeal to Egyptians. Sangram himself comes from Goa, southern India, but the dishes he prepares are mostly from northern India to cater to the Egyptian taste. Beef is not on offer, in line with Hindu sensibilities, but lamb and chicken are regularly served, and occasionally fish curries. Sangram notes that Punjabi and Gujarati dishes are the most popular, even though this eatery takes its name after Rajastan, a land of legendary castles and majestic palaces, home to the legendary Rajputs, or royal warrior kings descended from the Hindu Kashatriyas. They had their khansamas, or royal cooks, who jealously guarded the secrets of their kitchen creations. Stately mansions and royal kitchens abound in this colourful part of the Indian sub-continent. The northwestern Indian state is home to some 60 million people, and the diversity of its people is reflected in its multiform and assorted cuisine -- a veritable rainbow of colours and flavours. Tandoor, the traditional Indian charcoal fired-clay ovens, is an all-time favourite of many of the clientele of this very posh seaside resort. Stella di Mare's Rajastan started out as an Indian à la carte restaurant. Today, it serves a delectable buffet of north Indian specialties. Many dishes are cooked right before your eyes in Rajastan's show kitchen. A sensuous burst of aromas fills the air as you enter this delightful eatery. Daunting dark woods and burgundy leather upholstery, the décor is inviting. However, in all honesty Rajastan cannot be compared favourably with the superb quality of the design, service and cookery of Cairo's top Indian restaurants such as the Maharaja at the Ramses Hilton or the Oberoi, Mena House. However, Sangram is an amiable little elderly man who is doing his best to upgrade the quality of the food at the restaurant. I spotted him working away all alone at 6pm when my sons and I were back from the beach. I knocked at the large intricate mediaeval wooden door with its enormous lock. He proudly pointed to the extraordinary presentation of the buffet. Food designed to tease and provoke, but also to replenish the soul. Dusted with a tickle of tantalising garnishes, the food is a feast for the eye.Egyptians have a long way to go before they catch up with the Indians as far as culinary acumen is concerned. Not everyone agrees, though. My partner could not stomach the ordeal of sampling the Indian buffet. Indian haute cuisine is a thrilling textural experience. But, Indian food has not managed to capture the Egyptian imagination. Understanding the context and cultural background of the two very different cuisines is of vital significance. Yet perhaps there are broader cultural reasons, too. I'll leave that to the reader's conjecture. Rajastan Plan Hotel, Stella di Mare 46 Suez-Hurghada Road, Ain Al-Sukhna Dinner is served between 7pm-10.30pm. Dinner for two: LE200 Tel: 062 335 0500
