Restaurant review: Asian ensemble Asian cuisine, rare gems in a perfect setting and the meaning of life, muses Gamal Nkrumah Asia House is a sultry summer treat. It is a cool hideaway. An exquisite indoor fountain with plump Indian elephants and fat frogs spouting clear water are the defining characteristics that give one the feeling of floating off one's seat. Asia House is hard to take in as an entity. There are echoes of India, China and the host of Asian island-nations -- the Philippines, Indonesia and, of course, Japan. The food is as delicately melodious as the sounds emanating from this most distinguished eatery. It has an elegance all of its own. The luxury of the atmospheric restaurant has the lightness of a totally-achieved voice -- distinctly Asian. The management obviously created an artistic Asian ensemble impassioned and compellingly familiar. They made a tremendous impact with the capricious Indian rhythms coupled with soothing Chinese sounds. This mercurial tempo sets the pace of this posh place. The irony is that the style of this restaurant is completely at variance with authentic Asian icons. It is a hybrid, and a most congenial one at that. The outward serenity of the place masks the fiery nature of the food. Asia is forecast to dominate the 21st century. Mega- nations such as India and China will play a great part in global affairs. Asia House offers some fascinating insights into Asian cuisine. The best of Indian and Chinese -- the two countries that dominate the menu. This eatery, in Cairo's Shephard Hotel, is very much a piece of art. The fountain is the centrepiece, but there are many other Eastern delights. The ceiling, a warm mahogany, is a galaxy of intricate woodwork. The soft Asian music rises up and curls itself into corners and crevices as though electronically diffused. If one discounts the soft murmur of the waters pouring from the fat frogs' mouths, the music has a soothing and engaging clarity, warmth and immediacy -- truly Asian. The atmosphere is near ideal for true romance. This is not an eatery to be frequented alone. And, the food is just as enchanting as the atmospheric setting. The waiters are unobtrusive, polite and welcoming. So are the acoustics. The menu is a curious mix of Asian cuisine. It is divided into sections, according to countries. The India and China sections are by far the largest. Countries like the Philippines, Japan, Thailand and Indonesia constitute a mere couple of dishes. My partner and I inspected the exquisite interior. We tried to figure out which item belonged to which country. We decided first that we were going to mix the food -- we would try a hot Indian curry, a Thai soup and a Chinese one. Lassi for a drink. I had mine with honey and cumin seeds. We opted for the Japanese beef delicacy tory teriyaki, served with oyster sauce. I insisted on fish tikka of India -- tandoori marinated Red Sea fish and palak panner, spinach and cottage cheese curry. The menu carries a huge emotional weight, and the dishes come in considerable sizes. The Japanese beef was delicious. The Indian fish divine. We did not have room for the fiery lamb vindaloo, even though I am told it is absolutely delicious. Machchi kari, a rich fish curry, was superb. There is a genuine misconception about Asian cuisine in Egypt. Indian is too hot, Chinese too sweet. As for Japanese, it is supposed to be inedible. What is so pleasurable about Asian cuisine is its diversity. Asian vicissitudes. And, we decided to try a variety of Asian cooking traditions -- Indian, Chinese and Japanese. The soups were superb. My partner opted for Ching Hsiu Hai Keng, Chinese seafood soup. Sag ghost, lamb stew with spicy spinach, is a delicious Persian-inspired dish. The meat was tender and juicy. The spinach was fresh and flavoursome. The dish was topped with mouth-watering yoghourt. I would have loved to try the Bangus Sinigang, the delectable Filipino milk fish with ginger sauce. But, unfortunately there was no room. The lamb stew was filling and a real treat. My partner and I thoroughly enjoyed this particular delicacy. We washed it all down with Lassi, mine was laced with sugar, my partner's with salt, with cumin seeds thrown in for extra flavour. Asia House gives a healthy and provocative brood to be proud about. Asia House Helnan Shephard, Downtown Cairo Tel: 02 792 1000 Dinner for two: LE320
