Restaurant review: Labyrinthine lakeside Gamal Nkrumah discovers that the smiling staff at the newly refurbished Helnan Auberge du Lac in Fayoum is out to win hearts and stomachs Fayoum is a feast for the eyes: panoramic vistas, verdant fields, palm trees and olive groves, as well as shimmering Lake Qaroun, Egypt's largest salt water reservoir. And, the Fayoum's Helnan Auberge du Lac seems a million miles from the pretentious world of Cairene food snobbery. The food is attractively groomed and perfectly well-mannered befitting fine dining restaurants albeit in a peasant sort of way. Pristine it might well be, but Fayoum is provincial, to put it bluntly. It might not be the seat of Egypt's recent culinary revolution, and neither is it a gourmet destination in its own right. Alas, and let me make that crystal clear from the start, the Auberge's restaurant does not deserve the Epicurean label. However, service is graceful and the food wholesome. And be not fooled by the modern classic look -- this is no unspoilt outpost. The four-star hotel, originally founded in 1937 as a hunting pavilion for King Farouk, the last of Egypt's reigning monarchs, is only 80km southwest of Cairo. The tastefully decorated dining area incorporates mirrored walls. Don't expect eclectic flying candles, suave décor and fancy tableware. Still, the ambiance is decidedly snug and cosy. Moreover, this historic restaurant has seen presidents, royalty and celebrities dine in style. Yet this, in its own way, uniquely beautiful restaurant, is no swish dining room. The tables are uncompromisingly old school. It is neither drab nor too opulent. The monarchic spirit reigns even though the days of King Farouk seem light years away. There is that unmistakable faintly drab beauty of a woman well past her prime. However, she is a lady who obviously has aged gracefully. She shows a bit of leg with some mutton shanks. Moreover, she is easily accessible, or shall I say readily available. You do not have to jump on an aircraft to some distant destination when the wonderful opportunity to become better acquainted with the treasures of Eternal Egypt is at hand, literally a two-hour drive away from Cairo International Airport. Terribly risqué Egyptian delicacies such as tripe casserole, breaded fried brain and broiled calf's head are all unavailable. You are not likely to come across al dente pastas. The menu features several pasta dishes, invariably topped with the richest Béchamel sauce. Breakfast is an array of freshly squeezed juices and frothy yoghurt-based smoothies. And, eggs any way you want them -- except, that is, for eggs benedict. I delighted in the creamy organic oatmeal porridge, steaming hot and mellowed with yoghurt or skimmed milk. The local cheeses are light and yet creamy. The fruit platters are not particularly enticing, though. Coffee, including cappuccino, is available on demand. However, early morning tea appears to be more popular with the visitors. Croissants are buttery and pretty tasty and if you are lucky there are pains au chocolat to boot, but don't bank on the latter being served everyday for breakfast. A proper afternoon, English style, is a dream come true. Again, an assortment of fluffy pastries is laid out in front of a log fire if you so desire. Indeed, on frosty winter evenings -- and the lakeside can get quite chilly -- the crackling fire adds atmosphere. In the evenings dinner is along the lines of Fayoum-style duck, glazed with a secret combination of Pharaonic ingredients, or pigeon, stuffed with cracked wheat or rice. Grilled pigeon and roast quail are also available. The greasy duck, however, was oozing cholesterol-laden fatty oils. Local wines, perfectly adequate I hasten to add, are served with lunch and dinner, but if these don't suit you in summer, local beers will quench your thirst. In spring, the cool night air wafts through the softly lit corridors and out to the poolside reclining chairs. Tempting as it is to loll on the lake's edge, there is much to explore in the vicinity of the enchanting Lake Qaroun. Gourmet dining is not something to look out for, though. The whole experience really was extraordinary. Coming from Cairo, the first thing you notice is that in lakeside Fayoum you breathe near perfect air. It lays encircled by gleaming azure waters and the boundless pristine desert beyond. A stay at the Auberge du Lac is not exactly the most life-altering experience, but there is a saying about Fayoum: if you've been there three times, you never want to leave. Helnan Auberge du Lac Lakefront Road, Fayoum Dinner for three: LE350
