Restaurant review: Lakeside repast Gamal Nkrumah fishes for sun-drenched seclusion in Fayoum and finds serenity in a resort by a lagoon named Moon Paradise it ain't. Visitors have good reason to shiver as the sun goes down in winter. From November to April, the resort of Kamariat might not be the best place in the country to dine out, but it has its charms. You eat in Fayoum not to check out the latest dining scene there, but rather to experience the unique ambiance. With that in mind, we headed down to the shores of Egypt's largest natural salt water reservoir -- Lake Qaroun. Mer Wer, the Great Lake, in the ancient Egyptian language or Meoris in Greek, has historically been associated with food aplenty. This outing, however, was not about food, but rather about the freshness of the crisp country air. Kamariat, Moon Tales, is a poetic name for an idyllic spot. There are no nightclubs or supermarkets in the vicinity. There are no high-rise buildings either, and forget about the hustle and bustle of Cairo's street life. There is no traffic in sleepy Shakshouk, the nearest village. However, there are donkey- drawn carts, water buffaloes and egrets galore. Kamariat stands on a rocky outcrop that juts into Lake Qaroun. You can have a dip but note that there are no lifeguards. Coarse sand, green fields abound, and peasants and fisher seeking a livelihood of sorts. Fayoum was thought by the local inhabitants to have been drained by the Patriarch Joseph, Youssef in the Arabic of the Quran. He is traditionally associated with handsome features, and the pulchritude of the place is palpable. Indeed, the peasants are a living reminder of the world's first true life portraits, the so-called Fayoum mummy portraits. Farmers harvest rich sibakh (decomposed organic debris left by the ancient inhabitants of the area) and there is an unmistakable earthiness about the food in Fayoum. Sun-drenched seclusion and fresh, unpolluted air fills the surrounding vistas. Fayoum is a very special place. The depression was a lush paradise in ancient times. This was the hunting ground of the Pharaohs. Waterwheels introduced by the Ptolemies pepper the countryside. But let us forget about the Graeco-Roman period for the moment and sample the fish and the flesh of the birds of the marshes depicted in the distant past in the ancient chapel paintings of Nebamun. Bird life abounds around Lake Qaroun and especially on the tiny but exquisitely beautiful Golden Horn islet a veritable safe haven for flamingoes and other beautiful winged creatures. Rice and cracked wheat-stuffed pigeon and roast quail are local delicacies. The original species of fish have died out, but some 88 species of birds are found in the area. Packs of wild dogs hover about for a bit of the fish. But, in Kamariat, the dogs are playful and tame. One old dog doses off in the sun. The lakeside village of Shakshouk is not particularly a place to sign up for the good life. And, the food in Kamariat -- which trips off the tongue -- is not exactly gourmet either. It is pretty basic. Feast your eyes instead on the timeless landscape. Unfortunately, all is not as pristine as the scenic surroundings suggest, for water pollution is endemic rendering vast tracts of Lake Qaroun's shoreline hazardous for swimmers. The modern lake, 40km in length and 5.7km in width, is a mere puddle when compared to its former pre-historic colossal expanses. And, water levels were 85 metres higher in ancient Egyptian times than they are today. The salinity of the lake is increasing, a warning sign of impending environmental catastrophe. But Fayoum was historically subjected to such man- made calamities. The legendary King Qaroun, mentioned in the Quran as a symbol of despotic rule and tyranny, was said to have first deliberately inundated the area before burying it with sand. The surrounding countryside, however, is one of the most fertile in Egypt, and was one of the earliest agricultural regions of the world. Ironically, the contemporary roads are decidedly unimpressive even though Fayoum boasts the first paved road in the world. Temples devoted to the crocodile god Sobek abound, but reptilian flesh does not feature on the menu of the locals these days. Kamariat Lake Qaroun Road Tel: 016 883 3084 Lunch for four: LE150
