Restaurant review: Share my view An infinitely more casual approach is redefining Easter celebrations in Egypt, notes Gamal Nkrumah Set in a silver river, like an exclusive emerald isle, hoisted far above the teaming city, this spruced-up version of the typical Cairene rooftop café boasts comfortable chairs with cuddly cushions of cream and café au lait. Easter is over, but the enduring allure of the rooftop terrace must be recounted. There are many memorable sights in Cairo, but one in particular will stick in the mind. This is the view from atop the bustling, polluting fumes-choked metropolis with swimming pools and fine dining on rooftop terraces, overlooking the Nile. In summer, I would imagine, it becomes one of the toughest reservations to procure in Cairo. There are a few days of nothing but sun in this season of rebirth and people never know quite what to wear at this time of the year, especially when you are dozens of metres above the city's skyline. In a cosmos polarised between angels and demons, pontiffs prized traditional popular beliefs and customs concerning the greatest Christian celebration. Unlike Christmas, Easter is a religious festival marking Jesus Christ's mission to salvage the fallible nature of humanity. Sunshine beaming across the island's face, my friends resembled saints with halos around their heads. In Egypt, the Coptic Christians of the country mark the occasion with special meaty culinary delights, but the religious essence survives in certain edibles demarcating the very nature of the universe, a celebration of life. With a heavy heart, however, I summoned as much bravado as I could muster to forget for a moment the stunning panoramic view and focus instead on the food. Eggs, for example, pickled fish and spring onions feature prominently on this occasion signalling the eternal life cycle. But that was not the case at Sky. Baked pumpkin and goat cheese pastries accompanied by sour cream and field greens were among the delicious starters we sampled at Sky. The orange-cured salmon, rye crackers and citrus dressing presented with endive and lightly pickled cucumber salad was simply divine. Peking duck wraps, served with the sinful Hoisin sauce and shredded vegetables, too, were scrumptious. I spent several minutes scavenging for more meat. The duck de-boned and stuffed within a delectable pancake swept my friend off her feet. The imaginary psychodrama, with my friends and I perched on the sun-drenched rooftop, in full view of the Pyramids, the island suburb of Zamalek and Imbaba further to the northwest, the post- industrial panorama has a hypnotic beauty that is difficult to fathom. The windswept terrain adds to the allure. And, so does the hooting blue train snaking its way between the alleyways of Imbaba, noisily heading for Upper Egypt. Change has, for better or worse, finally arrived. Cairo. Traditionally ever mindful of the past, the ancient land has begun to look to the future. This is a corner that is becoming ever more lively and interesting. Stirring ever more flavours into the Easter brunch, I was particularly bemused by the goat cheese puffed pastry. It was piping hot and doughy. The cheese melted deliciously in my mouth. The steamed sea bass with sautéed seasonal vegetables was paradisiacal. This is a piece of Cairo where time slows down. The Sky vitality salad -- a winning mix of avocado, walnuts, bell peppers, fennel and lemon-olive dressing -- does nothing to rub off the feeling of utter abandon and relaxation amid a heavenly setting. The final orthodoxy questioned is that coloured eggs, salted fish and shallots need not be consumed at Sky. Phillipe, the Swiss chef, and Rayan, his American rival who excels at fusion cuisine, put their heads together to conjure up the most imaginative dishes for this stylish sky-high eatery that presents a terrific introduction to the solid splendours of the rooftop terrace table. For my main course, I went with fish for the festive season and so did my companion who opted for salmon. Our hosts preferred to play the carnivores. The fish was flawless, and as far as I could tell, so was the meat. The green leaf lifestyle menu marked my companion's salmon healthy. My sea bass, pronounced by us all to be the most salubrious, was curiously not marked "healthy" on the menu. Whatever you fancy, Sky adds vitality to the Cairo restaurant scene. The Fairmont's heaven-bound change of course is a most heartening development. To wash it all down, the cherry green tea was delicious. Fairmont Nile City Nile City Towers 2005 B, Ramlet Beaulac, Cairo Tel: 2461 9494 Lunch for four: LE950
