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Restaurant review: Come hither Omar
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 09 - 07 - 2009


Restaurant review:
Come hither Omar
Gamal Nkrumah revels in the fresh fish and piles his seafood platter high at Omar's Café's Fish Market
Omar's is one of Cairo's most stylish cafés, offering a delicious selection of Oriental salads, light fare, and mezzas. In other words, it is a casual dining experience combined with attractive rustic style décor. It was against this background knowledge that I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Omar's Café now offers a special fish dinner on Thursdays. The setting of the Café is inviting and familial and the hospitality gracious and believe you me will exceed your every expectation.
Located in the ground level not far from the famous beautifully landscaped gardens of the palatial Marriott, Zamalek, Omar's Café offers a casual dining experience that is nevertheless classy. The sushi buffet is a favourite with local residents and hotel guests.
Many myths and legends surround the mystique of Omar's Café. It is said that the café was named after the legendary Persian poet Omar Al-Khayyam, who of course was famed for his inebriated state when composing his splendid poetry. Then, there is the rumour that film superstar Omar Sharif was often spotted sipping his favourite drink at the bar of his mediaeval namesake. Whatever the truth, Omar's Café is named after a certain Omar associated with certain elixirs and that it offers a wide range of alcoholic beverages to go with your favourite fish dish.
Manager Edward Ibrahim, with a dark complexion and amiable features, introduced us to the various fish specialties on display. He smiles readily and answers queries and explained that Omar Café's seats 350 people, with the open area overlooking the exquisitely manicured gardens. However, the Fish Market, which is the part of Omar Café reserved for fish lovers on Thursdays "only" seats 260 people. Of course, if you happen to be one of those people who abhor the denizens of the deep, then you can enjoy your meal in a quiet corner away from the pungent odours of the sea.
Chef Badawi Abdel-Hamid took time to patiently explain which particular type of seafood is cooked in what manner. Certain fish, like bouri (the somewhat unattractive scientific name is mugil cephlus ) are best served charcoal grilled either "closed" with all the flavoursome entrails tightly locked in within the fish, and packed of course with protein and other components of a nutritional punch. Others such as bolti ( tilapia nilotica ) is tastier fried, Chef Abdel-Hamid recommended. Then there is Denise, which is best broiled with lemon and olive oil.
The ambiance of Omar Café is typically Alexandrian, or those of the coastal peoples of the country, such as Port Said, Damietta, Rosetta or Alexandria. The waiters in baggy Alexandrian trousers and waist coasts glide across the seafood buffet with the finished grace of fine fishermen. Trays in hand, they furnish you with the a la carte menu, just in case you don't particularly want to sample something fishy.
The dazzling Nancy Georggy, director of marketing and communication at the Marriott, accompanied by Ahmed Khedr, her most helpful assistant, came to our rescue. "I highly recommend the sushi," she beamed daintily plucking a light Japanese delicacy from the trendy sushi bar with the freshest seafood imaginable and infused with traditional Japanese flavours. One instinctively gets the feel that they are in one of Cairo's most sophisticated gathering places, and yet it feels like an intimate meeting corner of the Zamalek Marriott.
A little Alexandria in the heart of Cairo, Omar's Café is run by an excellent team of gourmet professionals. They excel at presenting culinary delights in a most engaging setting. This aquatically-inspired culinary establishment offers gastronomic enthusiasts the very best of seafood in select Cairene panache.
Fish Market, Omar's Café
Cairo Marriott and Omar Khayyam Casino, Zamalek,
Tel: 2728 3000
Open buffet: LE240 per person


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