Restaurant review: Possessed by Port Said Gamal Nkrumah savours a mouthful of superb Port Saidi seafood Fans of all things fishy would savour the scents and tastes of El Borg, the sensation of Medinet Nasr, Nasr City. Two years ago, the proprietors decided to venture with opening a Cairo outlet for the fabled Port Said fish eatery. Of all the fantastic creatures in the Mediterranean Sea, one of the most fascinatingly tasty is the saddled seabream. Another all time favourite is the flathead, or grey mullet -- it is called burri in Egypt. The love of the Egyptians for their burri is proverbial: it has thrown up some bizarre anomalies -- the ways of cooking their favourite fish are numerous. Unlike Cairenes, the inhabitants of Alexandria and Port Said do not like their grilled fish gutted -- they prefer their fish cooked with the natural juices intact.Too many fish restaurants that are doing well are pilloried rather than applauded. Looking for a fresh perspective on fish? Then El-Borg is it. It is a risky business to proclaim "the country's best" this or that, but among the huge crop of fish restaurants, El Borg ranks as first class. This seafood restaurant strikes you as swarming with diversity. The clientelle are mainly Egyptians, but there is usually a sampling of Gulf Arabs and Libyans enjoying the restaurant's irresitable cuisine. The entrance, though, is not as inviting as the fare. There is something in the air: something that is not quite right. Creepy, and crawly. You know that there is something afoot when walking into the entrance of a seafood restaurant only to be greeted by the pelt of a dead and deadly mammal. Unperturbed, my son ran up the flight of stairs and sat facing the furry remains of what on closer inspection turned out to be that of a hyena. Don't let the entrance put you off, or you'll miss out on the tastiest fish in town. Try to ignore the canine skin sprawling in the entrance of El Borg. The hairy monstrosity is completely out of place, and has nothing to do with fish and crustaceans. I have never tasted more flavoursome prawns, not in all Egypt. For lovers of Port Said seafood, variety and spice are essential components of a perfect fish dish. And, El Borg, a busy, prosperous place, exudes the flavor of Port Said in the heart of gleaming, glossy Nasr City. It takes all sorts. And, the people of Port Said take their seafood seriously. This was patently evident in El Borg. The fish was fresh, and we opted for red mullet or barbouni as it is called in Egypt. Mullus barbatus, to give it its scientific name, is a highly prized small fish popular throughout the Mediterranean. It is rich in protein, iodine and phosphorus. It can come crispy, spicy, extra-garlicky or plain. On frying, barbouni should be brittle and crispy to bite. The Mediterranean's waves are forgiving. They seem to break without collapsing over the sandy beaches of the seafront. But Nasr City is far from the sea even though the seafood tastes as if it has just been caught fresh from coastal waters. The seafood at El Borg, The Tower, is decidedly fresh. This insight, by the way, was accidental. The chef disclosed the secrets of the freshness -- apparently it is the spice. The dining style aims for casual elegant, but does not quite achieve it. But, it is comfortable and homely. Moreover, the fish is reasonably priced. Portions are reasonably generous, and the presentation often artful, albeit amateurish. The waiters are helpful and have a ready smile. My son opted for clam soup. I prefer the Port Saidi moloukhiya. The gooey green soup made of the corchorus olitorius, better known as Jew's Mallow in the English- speaking world, is perhaps the most uniquely authentic of Egyptian dishes -- it harks back to the days of the Pharaohs. The leafy deep verdant vegetable is typically finely chopped and thrown into a piping hot chicken or meat broth minutes before serving. Traditionally both the duck and rabbit varieties make the richest moloukhiya. Duck being the tastier, but heavier, the rabbit the lighter and healthier. But, the coastal people of the Nile Delta and especially around Damietta and Port Said, prefer their moloukhiya with shrimp. It is a local delicacy in these northeastern port cities of Egypt. The defining characteristic of any moloukhiya soup, what gives it its distinctive taste, is the taaliya -- crushed garlic fried lightly until it is pink and fragrant. It is the taaliya that gives the moloukhiya character, but if badly prepared it can spoil the soup. Too little garlic, or too brownly burnt garlic irredeemably ruins the dish. Another house specialty is the seafood hawawshy. It was absolutely scrumptious. El Borg is a seafood eatery that makes it mark. Which makes it well worth a plate of fish. El Borg restaurant and café 2 Abdallah Al-Araby St, end of Tayaran St, crossing of Mustafa Al-Nahhas Nasr City, Tel: 240 40720-240 40730 Lunch for three: LE237
