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Denizens of the deep
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 20 - 02 - 2003


Gamal Nkrumah avoids mutton in Maadi
A few people I know of chose not to eat meat during the week immediately following Eid Al-Adha. Most had probably gorged themselves on meat, and have had enough. With the unabashed and unrepentant meat-lovers the suspicion, perhaps, must be that there is always a little fat left to cut.
Fish devotees are spoilt for choice in Cairo. Traditionally the fish markets close during the Eid, as fishmongers presumably are feasting on lamb. But the Fish Market, which caters exclusively for foreigners and affluent Egyptians, remained open throughout the Eid. Shrewdly noting, perhaps, that a sizeable chunk of their clientele would be expatriates put off by the great slaughter of sheep and cattle.
The notion of devouring more mutton so soon after Eid Al-Adha did not in the least appeal to me. In any case, any excuse to feast on fish entices me, so I headed for the Fish Market, Maadi. I had been to the Giza Fish Market, the huge ship anchored off Giza's El-Nile Street, before, and the fish there was excellent. So last night I decided to head home to Maadi and sample the Fish Market on Corniche El-Nile, opposite the main entrance to Maadi. I also dragged a friend along.
The Maadi Fish Market might not be as ostentatious perhaps as its Giza counterpart, but the Maadi riverside seafood eatery is pretty spacious. Moneib, on the opposite bank of the Nile is almost rural -- the term suburban does not quite apply. The river is curiously narrow between Maadi and Moneib, which is why Maadi, literally 'The Ferry Crossing', gets its name. Palm trees and lush cane fields on the Moneib bank are clearly visible making for a somewhat exotic and romantic ambiance. In sharp contrast to the impressive albeit stiflingly urban panoramas of the Giza Fish Market, the restaurant in Maadi has a relaxed rather rural atmosphere. And more importantly it has just as varied and exquisite a selection of seafood. The waiters are jolly friendly, too.
Without much ado, we hurried towards to the "market" at the entrance to select the seafood for our dinner. The catfish and eels were still slithering. And the prawns and crabs, too, looked finger-licking good. By then we were starving. The fish on offer was fresh, and the waiters welcoming.
The seafood soup I selected as a starter was delicious. The seafood selection clustered together in the tasty broth -- clams, crab, shrimp the whole fishy lot. The soup itself was quite filling. The fish cakes my companion ordered were divine -- firm and succulent and drenched in a hot chili and tomato sauce. We ordered another round of Hot Fish Balls, as they are called at the Fish Market.
Mother always contended that small seafood tasted better than the larger varieties. I've always harboured a sneaking suspicion that the "small is beautiful" rule is not always true, particularly when one is contemplating a feast of fish. The special jumbo prawns on offer looked particularly enticing, and indeed, were cooked to perfection. Seafood cooked the Egyptian way, with noted exception of singari, usually comes with little or no frills. Which is one of the best ways to enjoy fish. All the seafood flavours intact.
The dessert trolley offers a limited but reliable array of delectables. I toyed with the idea of crème caramel, my favourite, but opted instead for a most delicious fruit salad composed of fresh seasonal fruit immersed in the not too syrupy sweet juices of the fruit.
As the night drew to an end, we were contentedly fulfilled and suffered not the agonising feeling of being uncomfortably bloated that seems to always haunt one soon after stuffing oneself with mutton. The LE210 bill for two including drinks was well worth it.
The Fish Market. Corniche El-Nile, opposite Maadi main entrance
Tel: 3804250 or 3804232


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