An excursion to the Black Desert and a stay in the Nature Camp could turn your trip to Bahariya into a lifetime experience. Vivian Salama describes the setting Imagine a land surrounded by thick black escarpment and rolling hills, rich with dates, olives and apricots, colour and tradition. It is the Black Desert that is surrounding Bahariya Oasis. And the Nature Camp in Bahariya is a fantastic way to start your adventure. Whether you arrive by bus or car, your travels should take you through the town of Bahariya to the camp. A small village of straw and wood huts makes up this desert lodge. Each individual hut comes complete with beds, blankets and candles to help you see at night. In front of each hut, there is a small porch, great for star gazing and enjoying the desert landscape. There are two men's and women's restrooms for visitors to use, so a flashlight will prove itself useful. Swimsuits required. No Jacuzzi can quite compare to Bahariya's springs and wells. Visitors can warm up at night with a dip in one of the ancient hot springs, some of which have temperatures reaching up to 45 degrees. "There are some hot springs here that you can use as medicine," explains Ashraf Ahmed, owner of Nature Camp. "If people have rheumatism, they go to the hot spring. The water has silver which is very good for your health and body." Those who arrive from Cairo are recommended to spend a night at the camp before journeying out into the Black Desert. Whether you choose to sample the desert with a day trip, or take anywhere from two to 21 days to hike across the great Sahara, the mystic hills of the Black Desert are likely to leave you in awe. "It's something that you can't really explain, you have to feel it," says Ahmed. In sharp contrast from the picturesque powdery, cream landscape of the White Desert, miles upon miles of soot-covered sand can leave visitors wondering about the secrets that lie within the Black Desert. Says Ahmed, "there is a lot of iron in the Black Desert. That is one of the reasons for the black rocks, and of course, there were volcanoes too." A thick, crusty layer of ancient dolerite and basalt tertiary volcanic rock coats the soft, flawless sand -- a remarkable sight since the neighbouring White Desert is said to have once been earth to a large body of water. American student Emily Moses visits Bahariya frequently. "At first it doesn't have the impression of a desert because it's so mountainous," she said. "It's quite serene... the view from the mountain tops is really beautiful." Hold on tight. 4x4 trips across the desert are an adventure in and of themselves. The canyon-like formations of the desert hills send tourists up and down in their seats as guides take you in over, under and in between the rock dunes. No need to be nervous; tour guides have mastered the art of manoeuvring across the roughest terrain and have every inch of the desert memorised as though it was an extension of their homes. "In the last four or five years, tours started to grow too much. Now we have more than 50 cars here from [Bahariya] that go into the desert," Ahmed said. The party kicks off at night for those who choose to camp out in the desert. Nature Camp provides an array of entertainment including special musical performances by some of the local Bedouins. "The tourists like this the best," says Ahmed. Visitors can wind down at night by counting the shooting stars. The remoteness of the great Western Desert leaves for some of the most breathtaking views of the sky one might ever see. NASA scientists have even journeyed to the region to study the planets. "I've never seen so many stars in my entire life," said Moses. "You can point out the consolations that you have never see in even the most rural parts of the US. It really gives you a different perspective of things." Wake up from a quiet and peaceful night and get ready to do it all over again. Every bit of the Black Desert possesses a uniqueness that gives visitors the impression they are jumping worlds. Whether you're steering through the dark hills that inspired the namesake of the Black Desert, or you're cruising across the flat black-speckled sand, Bahariya is a doorway to the great wonders of Egypt's Western Desert. Campers interested in taking the ultimate 21- day challenge to Al-Gilf Al-Kabir (Egypt's southwest corner, meeting with Sudan and Libya) are recommended to start their journey from Bahariya as well. Only the more experienced desert campers are advised to attempt this trip. The Western Desert, Cairo's new backyard, is yielding treasures and discoveries anyone can enjoy. Merely 300km southwest of the Egyptian capital, Bahariya has, in recent years, quickly evolved from a quiet northern oasis to a western mini- metropolis. The northern most oasis is, by far, the most popular among tourists -- thanks in part to diligent advertising and its proximity to Cairo. The warm reception from the people of Bahariya explains the prosperity of the Western Desert oases. The road from Cairo, paved in 1967, together with the modern paved road connecting the oasis to Farafra, has created a doorway for discovery. Unlike the other oases of the Western Desert, Bahariya's population has soared in the last quarter century, thanks to modern roads. In the 1950s, a marked drop in agricultural land, caused by declining water, brought the oasis's population to 6,000. Today, nearly 30,000 people live in Bahariya and the surrounding villages. Upon first arriving in Bahariya, it is apparent that traditions are strong. The one main street in Bawiti, Bahariya's largest village, is lined with local residents, drinking tea, discussing the weather and sharing their favourite jokes. Children approach newcomers with friendliness and curiosity, shouting "hello" to any suspected foreigners. The roads are lined on both sides with shops selling anything from locally-made clothes to jewellery to snacks for the road. It may be to your benefit to purchase a pair of knitted gloves and a hat, as nighttime temperatures in the desert can turn frigid. "These days it can be a little bit windy," says Ahmed. " Khamasin (sandy spring winds) can be a little strong and make the sand move."
