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108 Minutes in Manama, Bahrain
Published in Bikya Masr on 18 - 03 - 2010

MANAMA: At first glance, Bahrain's capital, Manama, may not seem like the most interesting of travel destinations in the Middle East. The island itself, located of the eastern coast of Saudi Arabia, is quite small and, apart from the capital, is mostly composed of rolling sand dunes and miles of pipeline used to extract the country's natural gas. Island life is dominated by Manama, which sports towering glass spires, enormous shopping malls and many of the other modern conveniences of our globalized world.
Indeed, it is the country's location and resources that draw most of the Western travelers to Bahrain. The island lies in the Persian gulf between the Arabian Peninsula and Iran making it of great strategic interest to the US and the UK, both of whom have naval bases here. Equally important are the large reserves of natural gas that bring businessmen, engineers and bankers from around the world to Bahrain.
It would be easy to get caught up with these expats on a brief excursion to Bahrain. The amenities that many crave while traveling, such as nice restaurants and nightlife, seem to only exist within the confines of the chain hotels frequented by these outsiders. Of course these establishments are ubiquitous in Manama, and a visitor could choose to spend time relaxing on the luxurious private beach at the Ritz Carlton or sip some beer in one of the restaurants of the more modest Radisson hotel. Doing so, of course, would be to miss out on the many things that make Bahrain such a unique and interesting place to visit.
Travelers on a tight schedule should make selecting a good taxi their first priority on arrival. Most of the cars are newer models and many of the younger drivers speak very good English. While Manama is small, as far as world capitals go, it is by no means pedestrian friendly. The oppressive heat and wide boulevards filled with speeding SUVs mean that walking is out of the question. Negotiate a flat fee for the taxi to stay with you for your entire visit to Manama as this will save you the hassle of trying to flag down another underneath the scorching rays of the sun.
After securing transportation, make your way to the Bahrain National Museum. A short visit to the museum can provide an extremely informative introduction to Bahraini history, art, and culture. Upon entry, a wide hall exhibits a variety of traditional and modern art from Bahraini and other Arabian artists. Visitors can then make their way to the museum's archeological section to view artifacts from Bahrain's 6,000 year history as part of ancient empires to its independence from the British in 1971. The museum also highlights Bahrain's pearl divers, which drove the local economy until the discovery of oil in the 20th century. Pearl diving, and the international trade that linked Asia with the Middle East, was an integral part of the culture in Bahrain, which is depicted in detail with life-sized exhibits of a tradiational village and souk. This year, the museum also features a special exhibit of photographs detailing the life Ibn Saud, the founder of modern day Saudi Arabia.
From the museum, take your taxi to the al Fateh Mosque, an impressive stone building built in midst of the modern skyscrappers of Manama. Unlike its larger neighbor, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain in predominately Shia and visitors to the mosque can learn much about the practices and beliefs of this strain of Islam. Tours are available in English and last less than hour. Visitors are guided to different stations within the mosque to learn how individuals pray, how the muezzin leads Muslims in group prayers at the mosque, and how the Koran is taught to students. The building itself is the most impressive part of the tour, looking as though it could have been standing for hundreds of year, it is in fact just over 20 years old. The interior features beautiful Islamic calligraphy built into the walls and hundreds of glass globes to provide light. The mosque remains cool even in Bahrain's summer heat thanks to the shaded, open courtyard and massive fiberglass dome, the largest in the world.
Travellers with more time on their hands have a variety of other options to explore in Manama and in the sourrounding desert. Within the city, shoppers can choose between one of the very modern, up-scale malls or the more tradiational souk. In the later, visitors can find everything from a gold fringed abaya to a solid gold watch. A knowledgable taxi driver driver can take you to a camel farm, with dozens of the animals close enough to touch, supposedly owned by one of the king's relatives. Further afield, sports enthusiaists can visit the Bahrain International Circuit, an F1 race track and, if they are lucky, catch a glimpse of a few practice laps. For the nature lover, the Tree of Life is a must see. Located in the middle of a sandy wasteland, a huge tree grows despite the fact that there are no sources of fresh water for miles in any direction.
Returning to the airport, travelers can take in the numerous buildings and monuments that resemble triangular ships' sails. These modern buildings are reminders of Bahrain's current prosperity and rich history, both of which can be experienced in even a short trip to Manama.
BM


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