Restaurant review: Royal reception Ramadan beckons and Gamal Nkrumah picks the perfect place for Iftar Time-travel comes easy to those who are fasting during the holy Muslim month of Ramadan and wish to break the fast Fatimid-style. The hypnotic charm of the Abou El-Sid restaurant in Maadi is unmistakable. Outdoors in the pleasant Andalusian-inspired garden or inside in the opulent surroundings of pseudo-Arabian décor, Abou El-Sid is the ideal setting for Iftar, breaking your fast. With all due respect, the Maadi eatery is quite frankly incomparable in the excellence of its enchanting ambiance to either of the cramped Abou El-Sid restaurants of Zamalek or Mohandessin. The story of Abou El-Sid begins in mediaeval Fatimid Cairo, and survives today with a set of aesthetic thrills that is as heady as anything in the art of haute cuisine. The only eyesore is the old monarchist crescent and three-star flag hoisted high up. Call me an old-fashioned Nasserist, but this strikes me as grossly inappropriate. That said, the trials and tribulations of Abou El-Sid, a mysterious commoner of mediaeval Egypt, have spawned many tales. His wry tale of a humble chef tormented by a wicked sultan stresses that integrity is the best kept secret of the greatest of chefs. Indeed, if you have an inclination to prepare fine Egyptian cuisine, you'll know that a great deal of it boils down to honesty. The first thing you have to be honest about is the freshness of the ingredients. The second is which flavour you wish to have overwhelm all others. An Egyptian native of Cairo during the Fatimid period, Abou El-Sid cooked happily for friends and neighbours. Many a married man would desert his wife to come spend the evening savouring his irresistible edibles. He knew that the surest way to a man's heart is through his stomach. The women of his neighbourhood cursed him for his dexterity in the kitchen, and it appears that their incessant cussing bore frightful fruit. A merciless Fatimid sultan whose name will not be recalled now, had heard about Abou El-Sid's talents. He disguised himself as a wandering merchant and called on Abou El-Sid's tavern. The following evening, the sultan masqueraded as a poor man and revisited Abou El-Sid's humble eatery. The sultan was intrigued by the delectable creations of Abou El-Sid. He summoned the cook to his palace and invited him to take charge of the palace cuisine, a dubious honour Abou El-Sid could hardly afford to decline. Lo and behold, Abou El-Sid grew tired of the endless carousals and binges of the sultan and his greedy courtiers. He longed for the friendliness and sincerity of his humble neighbours. He repeatedly pleaded with the sultan to let him return to his humble abode. The sultan flatly refused and in exasperation banished the frustrated cook to the palace kitchen. Abou El-Sid complained ever more bitterly. By that time, the harem had learnt something of the secrets of Abou El-Sid's culinary talents, so they dispensed with him completely, and he spent the rest of his life in the dungeon. To while away time, Abou El-Sid jotted down recipes of his exceptional cuisine. Ramadan is now upon us and the thought of food is uppermost on our minds. Abou El-Sid serves traditional Egyptian dishes -- moloukheya, bamia (okra), fatta (a garlicky shank chunk soaked in a rich tomato sauce, rice and toasted brown bread), and cracked-wheat ( ferik ) stuffed pigeon. These dishes, reminiscent of the never-ending feasts of the Fatimid era, are typical Egyptian Ramadan rituals. Abou El-Sid's book of recipes was ostensibly discovered by the founders of this exclusive restaurant chain. Exceptionally tasty is the kishk Saidi (Upper Egyptian- style), a delectable mix of burghul (durum wheat), curdled or fermented milk and yoghurt with the smooth texture of custard pudding. The kobeba (fried cracked wheat and lamb meatballs) served with babaghanoug, Abou El-Sid's mint veal kebabs, bessara (fava beans and coriander dip), and chicken livers Alexandrian-style are delightful. And so are Abou El-Sid's famous lentils. Enjoy the shisha, or hookah (water pipe or hubble-bubble) in the garden after Iftar. Abou El-Sid, Maadi 45 Road 7 , Maadi Tel: 238 05050 Iftar for two: LE200
