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The season's key is G
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 11 - 10 - 2007


By Lubna Abdel-Aziz
As we slowly ease into cooler climes, we scout around to touch up our old wardrobe and embrace the new look. There is always a new look, and if we do not step in with the crowd, we stand alone. Unwilling to yield to a solitary status, we turn to the fashion capitals for inspiration and guidance. Without a doubt the divine art of haute couture belongs to Paris, the centre of the fashion world since the late 17th century. Italy has come very close to nudging the Paris supremacy with its sublime taste, its acute fashion sense and its romantic flamboyance. Who can overlook the master tailoring of London, brimming with confidence, reserve and tradition. Despite the dominance of these fashion capitals, people walking down the streets of any city, the street smart are generally dressing American, distinctly relaxed, comfortable, casual and fresh. American fashion has dictated with subtlety, its cheerful youthfulness, starting with the ever stylish, appropriate and befitting blue jeans.
There may be disagreement about what garments are designed for. Are they veiled protection against a vulgar gaze, or a seductive invitation evoking visions of the splendour that lies beneath. However there is no disagreement, in fact there is harmony of opinion around the fashion capitals, all singing loudly and in unison in the letter G. A perfect confraternity of taste and sentiment on the question of colour, we have no choice but to join in the chorus.
Black may be king, white his consort, and together they make an elegant royal pair, forever regal, forever fashionable. Between the two lies a sea of grey, in a myriad shades from pearl to charcoal hues. Therein lies the couleur de rigeur of the Autumn/Winter 2007/2008 season. Black remains undisputed monarch, especially when texturally blended, such as matte against shiny, or dull against shimmer. Black and white special effects or monochromatic greys in knitwear, and fine tailoring in oversized, bulky knits for extra warmth and cosiness. Grey knits are also popular in sheath or simple belted dresses, jackets, suits or swinging coats.
If these colourless colours are too dull and dreary to greet the new season, consider another colour of the royal family. Imperial purple, the colour of power, imparts a sacred splendour, a delightful radiance, a delicate perfume of lilacs and lavenders. Mysterious, hot, inviting purple -- any purple, every purple will do in amethyst, aubergine, puce, mauve, heliotrope, lilac, lavender, tyrian, or any purple tone you can come up with. However, if the palette purple evokes mournful memories, turn to the ever gay festive reds, from cherry to pomegranate that will make you stand out in a sea of little black dresses. Other vivid colours to flatter and compliment are lemon curry, green moss, and all the neutrals including taupe, caffe lattè, or even espresso.
To pick the melodious note of G, follow Grey with Glamour. Imagine an intense, bright purple dress of crushed purple grapes in bold satin duchesse, and you will become the star of the gala season. A retro look to the 40s glamour goddess gowns, is a propos. Think of Gilda and her sisters, those slinky clad sirens who still turn heads even decades later. The dress is here to stay in all lengths and widths. The romantic grown styles are both romantic and strong, with strength in the shoulder line and flirtatious power in the cinched waist. The good news for mini-haters is the new longer hemlines, just a few inches above the knee, or below. The figure hugging silhouette has timeless appeal if you possess this rare hourglass perfection. If you opt for the sack, the sheath or the ever popular, ever generous, trapeze, they can all be pulled together with a tiny belt to show off your tiny waist.
Every season, coats pop up as a 'must have item.' In warmer climates they are seldom worn. Fashionistas must have dozens of brand new ones in their closets. This season they will go again for the coat, lean, tailored, and fitted with military styling or hugely overflowing with cocoon volume, or yet again the famous trapeze A lines. The military touches introduced a few seasons ago linger on in gold ornaments, frog fastening, braided epaulets, leather trims, buckles and belts. All lend a masculine tailored look that translates into ultra feminine.
Fur, if you dare, but a leather jacket, a staple in almost every wardrobe, male or female, is a must this season. Texture is the novelty like python or croc finishes. This follows through not only in coats, but shoes, bags, boots, belts and other accessories.
The loud clamorous G note calls for Glimmer in addition to Glamour. Heavy embellishments as opposed to the romantic frills of past seasons are seen in rich embroidery and deluxe trims in stronger metallic garnish tones of silver, dark grey, anthracite or gold -- from palest gold to rich 24k gold. The gold is tougher and harder like gunmetal anthracite, rich bronze and copper. They appear elegant, rich, and fashionably expensive.
The masculine wide pants a la Kate Hepburn are also an old new look. Get out those wide shoulder lined garments of yesteryear -- they are back in style.
Accessories often make the outfit, even the woman herself. If you belong to the club of 'accessory crazies' you need a bag of rare animal skin, or a good imitation. Fashion bags have become so oversized, fashionistas have learned to sling them over their shoulders, practically empty. A new trend in handbags that will save our aching backs is a proper frame handbag or a clutch in silvery grey looks. The strong trend is coloured bags and smaller ones like the hard case minaudieres, envelopes, pouches or clutches. Dainty evenings call for dainty clutches.
If you need or can afford only one item to update your winter wardrobe, make it footwear, leather boots, or shoes. Fashion boots create the fastest update, and are essential this season. Red and black ankle boots are the cat's meow.
If you are no disco diva concentrate on a couple of essentials. A woman of elegance will remain with the classics, while picking and choosing from the new trends, only those items which will suit her personality, age, style and physique.
You can still be singing in ladylike fashion all your high Gs in gorgeous, glamorous glitter as you view Galliano, Gucci, Gabbana, and ah yes, Giorgio. Your winter garments will glisten and glow from the inside out, to brighten the long winter G (grey) days ahead.
Fashion though Folly's child and guide of fools,
Rules e'en the wisest, and in learning rules.
George Crabbe
(1754-1832)


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