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Essence of Fall
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 16 - 10 - 2008


By Lubna Abdel-Aziz
Colour is one of Mother Nature's basic lessons. As the seasons change, so do the colours of nature, inviting us all to follow suit. Off with our breezy pastels as we welcome the rich autumn hues that surround us this time of year. From chocolate brown to burnt orange and vibrant evergreens, from brandy to pinot noir and shades of glorious grey, the mood projects a sensual season, and so do the styles. Ladies, how lucky can we get! Curves are in, and our half of the world is celebrating, the better half, that is. The interesting trend for the season accentuates the voluptuous cello-shaped "Belle Curves." The voluptuous bell-shaped silhouette was shown in Milan, London and Paris with major emphasis on the waistline, even the back, hips, and shoulders. Accentuate the beauty of a woman's curves, a la Marie Antoinette with a wasp waist defined by cinched belts.
In contrast to the cello silhouette is the diversely Demure damsel with chest all covered in ruffles and ruches reminiscent of the Gibson girl era. Even the skin revealing blouses of Versace and Roberto Cavalli covered their models with high necklines and dominating shoulders. Versace shows a lovely gathered stand up collar but the urge to show some skin was irresistible, so they exposed the back. London designers used miles of skin- covering materials from furs to feathers and face-framing ruffles. Channelling a Victorian vibration that started in 2005, and has endured, becoming aggressively dominant this season, It is not without its own style of eroticism as seen at Allessandro Dell'Acqua's fashion show. The dramatic shoulders help accentuate a beautiful waistline. Carefully constructed clothes as well as asymmetric one-shoulder dressing, was seen at Lanvin and Calvin Klein are among the stunning looks of the season. Volume is the key to this architectural theme, which is also carried through into accessories. Sculpted wedges and knee-high boots are strong statement styles that work well with this trend.
If you are neither demure nor belle-curved, and dislike the futuristic structures, do not despair. Lace is back with a dark Gothic look, in dresses, blouses, vests, coats, even handbags, shoes and boots, as seen at Prada. It is shockingly new and seductive -- delicately looking yet sturdily made to match with leather, cashmere or tweed. Better still, raid grandma's closet for a nostalgic statement and while you are at, it you can borrow one of her jewels for a striking retro attitude.
The days of cropped blazers are no more, thank heaven. Us ladies, who wish to hide their hips, can breathe a sigh of relief. Long coats and blazers fall right above the knee or mid thigh. These go best with pants, which brings even more good news. Pants are back with a vengeance as seen in Milan and New York. A fabulous array of trousers and menswear trends, presented by the one and only Armani the essence of elegance, even in denim. Pants are long and tapered and coupled with Belle Curves or floral tops give them a whole new casual ultra-chic feel.
One more trend to consider is the Country look, embraced by many a designer this season. Dirndl skirts have been resurrected. Cossack style fringed furs and hats or boho-style, give it a distinct Russian air. Swingy skirts and Poufy pants are as easy and comfortable as they appear. Long skirts, popular in the summer are returning for fall, and are definitely more flattering than tights. There is more good news for the season. Out with your staple LBD (Little black dress). This perennial favourite stands out this season in asymmetric, angular or super- structured lines. A slit on the side is wickedly delicious, if you dare! If you are sorry you will part with your summer florals, take heart. Exotic florals are still blooming for fall in dresses and blouses in autumn's deeply alluring hues.
There is little chance that you will trip fashion-wise this season, with such a variety of stunning styles to suit a whole spectrum of characters, moods, tempers and even tantrums.
Now for the best part, at least for me -- accessories. If you cannot or will not update your wardrobe for fall, and many of us don't, we can at least accessorize. The bootie was a leading trend last year, and returns for fall to complement your flowery blouses and knee length dresses as well as mini-skirts and tights. Belted swing coats and edgy pencil skirts are hot high-street looks with the beloved bootie. The poufy sleeves are a great way to flatter every shape. They can enhance a small frame or hide the large arms of a full figure.
Other accessories include:
The satchel bag replaces the over-sized piece of luggage of yesteryear. Bags have definitely shrunk -- more lady-like. Gloves are gaining in popularity for a polished silhouette. Boots are big but so is any style of shoes, from pumps, loafers, platform or high heels or flats -- pick your favourite. Shoes vacillate between sky high heels and ballet flats for evenings as well. When choosing, consider height and weight.
If red hot lip-colour is not for you, darken your lip gloss, but do give it a try - it is far more flattering than you think.
While it is always interesting and inspiring to watch out for fashion trends, they must work for us, rather than the other way around. No slave to fashion ever develops a style, and a lady with an individual style stands out in a sea of fashion-clad sisters.
Can we ever forget Audrey Hepburn's LBD in Breakfast at Tiffany ? This is living proof that fashion fades while style endures.
Things are seldom what they seem
Skim milk masquerades as cream
-- Gilbert & Sullivan W.S. Gilbert (1836 -- 1911)


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