CBE, banks to launch card tokenization on Android mobile apps    CIB completes EGP 2.3bn securitization for GlobalCorp in seventh issuance    Mobile wallet transactions in Egypt surge 72% in Q2 2025 to EGP 943.4bn    Right-wing figures blame 'the Left' for Kirk killing, some urge ban on Democratic Party    Ex-IDF chief says Gaza war casualties exceed 200,000, legal advice 'never a constraint'    Egypt's Sisi ratifies €103.5m financial cooperation deal with Germany    Egypt's FM heads to Doha for talks on Israel escalation    Israeli strike in Doha escalates regional tensions, threatens Gaza ceasefire talks    Egypt strengthens inter-ministerial cooperation to upgrade healthcare sector    Egyptian government charts new policies to advance human development    Egypt, Spain discuss expanding health cooperation, support for Gaza    Egypt advances plans to upgrade historic Cairo with Azbakeya, Ataba projects    Egyptian pound ends week lower against US dollar – CBE    Egypt expresses condolences to Sudan after deadly Darfur landslides    Egypt hosts G20 meeting for 1st time outside member states    Lebanese Prime Minister visits Egypt's Grand Egyptian Museum    Egypt to tighten waste rules, cut rice straw fees to curb pollution    Egypt seeks Indian expertise to boost pharmaceutical industry    Egypt prepares unified stance ahead of COP30 in Brazil    Egypt recovers collection of ancient artefacts from Netherlands    Egypt harvests 315,000 cubic metres of rainwater in Sinai as part of flash flood protection measures    Egyptian, Ugandan Presidents open business forum to boost trade    Al-Sisi says any party thinking Egypt will neglect water rights is 'completely mistaken'    Egypt's Sisi, Uganda's Museveni discuss boosting ties    Egypt, Huawei explore healthcare digital transformation cooperation    Foreign, housing ministers discuss Egypt's role in African development push    Greco-Roman rock-cut tombs unearthed in Egypt's Aswan    Egypt reveals heritage e-training portal    Sisi launches new support initiative for families of war, terrorism victims    Egypt expands e-ticketing to 110 heritage sites, adds self-service kiosks at Saqqara    Palm Hills Squash Open debuts with 48 international stars, $250,000 prize pool    On Sport to broadcast Pan Arab Golf Championship for Juniors and Ladies in Egypt    Golf Festival in Cairo to mark Arab Golf Federation's 50th anniversary    Germany among EU's priciest labour markets – official data    Paris Olympic gold '24 medals hit record value    A minute of silence for Egyptian sports    Russia says it's in sync with US, China, Pakistan on Taliban    It's a bit frustrating to draw at home: Real Madrid keeper after Villarreal game    Shoukry reviews with Guterres Egypt's efforts to achieve SDGs, promote human rights    Sudan says countries must cooperate on vaccines    Johnson & Johnson: Second shot boosts antibodies and protection against COVID-19    Egypt to tax bloggers, YouTubers    Egypt's FM asserts importance of stability in Libya, holding elections as scheduled    We mustn't lose touch: Muller after Bayern win in Bundesliga    Egypt records 36 new deaths from Covid-19, highest since mid June    Egypt sells $3 bln US-dollar dominated eurobonds    Gamal Hanafy's ceramic exhibition at Gezira Arts Centre is a must go    Italian Institute Director Davide Scalmani presents activities of the Cairo Institute for ITALIANA.IT platform    







Thank you for reporting!
This image will be automatically disabled when it gets reported by several people.



Still free
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 06 - 03 - 2008

Far from the frontline of capital and pain, Quft escapes the architecture of time. Serene Assir explores the desire to run
Where symbol and reality meet, and the present comes to life, time ceases to run through my fingers. Not only am I out of the city. Once past the final checkpoint on the way to Quft from Luxor -- patience, there are many of them -- the modus operandi of the state exposes itself as a primitive method of administrative control which rudely imposes itself on the beauty of that which is bigger than itself, failing to kill it but making a damn good attempt at hiding it. Not only am I out of the city and the architecture of time, but I am also beyond the reach of lies. Here the sun is the sun, the moon is the moon, and humans still remember how to feed themselves without killing others for it.
Sadly I too have made the mistake before of qualifying travel to Upper Egypt as a journey into the past -- as though the present, past and future were technological constructs, and as though the measure of time was merely advancement further and further into the pit of capital.
In Barahma village, in the home of Sanaa Hamdan, her daughter brings out sugar cane to offer her guests. Sanaa watches discretely as I struggle to peel it, but in good faith does not disturb. I soon give up. Sensing this, she takes it from me and within seconds it is peeled. According to development-based criteria her home would no doubt qualify as miserable. But she has memory of something of which I do not. She gives me the peeled cane back. It would be a statement of the obvious to say that it is sweeter than anything mass produced. But what is revealing is the instantaneous exposure of the misperception that somehow the city should in any way hold more advancement than that which Sanaa can offer. She is the present and I am the past.
At any rate the description appears insulting unless qualifying the past as behind is a mistake too. Maybe as we draw nearer to the frontline of capital and technological violence, the delusion that there can be nothing else is strong, and from that delusion grows a lethargy and submission to human limitation. Of this submission Quft knows literally nothing -- at least not with any depth. Upper Egypt is known for its resistance to the imposition of state control, and to this day any significant abuse of power by central power quickly meets retaliation. "It's not that we don't cooperate," said resident Ahmed Jebran. "But we know the difference between cooperation and submission. This is ours, and we are part of this land. It could be said that in Upper Egypt we enjoy our independence. It is not political. It is human."
Along the road up towards Barahma from Luxor, the consequences of this proud spirit of independence are clear. The splendour of nature is overwhelming. Fields stretch out from beside the Nile water as far as the eye can see. Reeds grow tall and their tips shine as yellow beneath the perfect sky. Children sit by the river and talk or play. Palm trees line the banks in different shapes and sizes. The moon begins to rise early, its white translucent configuration carving itself onto layers of darkening blue. Silence is here, as is sound enough to fill the air with comfort. And there is also struggle. The work of the farmers is physical and hard. Some children play rough, as they do everywhere. Perfection does not mean stillness, for there is much movement. To sow the harvest involves cuts. To raise children involves cracking of the skin, as the roughness of the skin of scores of mothers in Qena reveals.
But the greatest struggle is not one for which the people have prayed, and that is the struggle against poverty. Everywhere the phrase seems to echo, " Ehna ghalaba, alhamdulillah." (We are poor, thank God). Inequality reaches brutal levels here as some gain status over others simply for having a direct water connection to their homes, even when the rest of the home reveals an equal level of disenfranchisement. Indeed relativity is reduced to a bad joke played on those who, swamped by information, lose sight of just what is happening even on their own ground.
Military strategy dictates that the offensive is most brutal when the chances of success are small. Poverty and the onslaught of globalisation are likely to keep going, ever more relentlessly, until they manage to co-opt the majority of the world, which is still rich, variegated and is home to areas such as Quft. The prospect is frightening, sure, because the pain is strong already. But the loss of beauty and freedom amidst the pure nature to the forces of submission and order -- surely the pain of that would be greater.
Quft leaves many impressions. The strongest is the temptation to run towards a future where justice and love are stronger than the monopoly of order. My feelings change, however, on the road back out, and I remember my place, and it is not here, at least not now. The sun begins to set as it occurs to me that if such beauty exists on earth, then paradise must be -- but no. We leave that thought for another time.


Clic here to read the story from its source.