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One cold shoulder
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 19 - 03 - 2009


By Lubna Abdel-Aziz
The bare shoulder of "the face that launched a thousand ships," definitely helped create the legend of the fair Helen of Troy. Positively stunning in her sexy one shoulder costume, she stirred the Trojans, led by a smitten Paris, to a deadly war. That staple Hellenic fashion has been worn by many a female, desirous of the same attention. Jackie Kennedy did just that by captivating Paris (the city) when she accompanied her husband, President John Kennedy to the fashion capital of the world in May 1961. Even the fashion-blase Parisians, were dazzled by her subtle one- bare shoulder elegance.
A perennial favorite, the asymmetric one-shoulder dress leads the parade on this year's fashion boulevard. While most haute couture designers have ignored the chill wind of the economic reality, discarding one shoulder must still mean-less fabric even for the jet set crowd. The sexy style is no longer reserved for special occasions, ball gowns or evening wear, it is seen in dresses, blouses, tops and T- shirts. A variety of one shoulder with long sleeve, short sleeve, or no sleeve pops up in all styles, colors, and fabrics. It seems just the summer fad to wear, if you dare. If not, do not despair.
All manner of styles have shone through to overcome the winter gloom and escape the crisis of the day. The summer of 2009 displays soft and feminine heavenly fabrics in bold bright colors. For that little devil in you, red is the strongest colour, making a big comeback this season. Even just a flash of red accessories, such as shoes or ballet flats, is a head-turner. A marine style dress in red, white and blue will do nicely for the most demure among us.
Another important colour, perhaps the most dominant of the season is blue, in every hue from sapphire to powder, from royal to sea green, any blue will do. Purple shades are still hanging in there since last season, but blue has nudged them from their number one spot to become the major trend for 2009.The luxury giants of the fashion world are chasing the economic blues with distinctive blue tones and drapery in a gradually widening skirt silhouette. Fashion designers achieve this by employing double layer skirts, and, there goes your budget. You can still maintain your elegance in black and white, which has endured summer after summer, defying time and retaining its appeal for both designers and shoppers. Dior's show of a lined black and white collection was both distinctive and chic. B&W is again displayed handsomely by most designers. John Paul Gaultier's clients burst into applause at his B&W parade.
As for last summer's floral prints, wear them proudly. Prints help to fashion a more ethereal effect. Floral roses, trailing blooms of sweet peas and daisies create a painted water color effect at the houses of Roberto Cavalli and Elie Saab, reminiscent of a heavenly Grace Kelly in a classic waisted fifties dress. Designers are using the artist's palette in its full range. Exotic geometric prints and animal prints retain their appeal, leopard and zebra patterns, richer and wilder than ever. Stripes complete the color palette of the season, appearing even on shoes and handbags.
The easy A-line of the 60s is experiencing a rebirth, which should be good news for all. Flattering for all figures and ages, it is a strong trendsetter. Even Empire-cut dresses are moving towards an A-line silhouette, with a widening shoulder line which is "a pivotal change in the everyday silhouette and worthy of note." All ruffled and ruched, sleeves get to be noticed with drapery, tucks, pleats and bows. Volume, once a dirty word, has now become the norm. The shoulder line has widened and covered bare shoulders giving a fifties/early sixties touch of fashion.
Monochrome and classic, nautical, military and vintage, remain as a true fashion trend with a lasting impact every season. As for that little black dress, it is eternal. It remains a necessary fashion item, and was favored by many designers this season. Add a bright shawl, pink cardigan or red shoes, and you will look sharp and trendy anywhere.
Fashionistas, must resent these hard times that may tighten their wardrobe budget. Take heart. If you simply replenish your accessories, you can freshen up last year's summer wardrobe, evoking all the oohs and aahs you long for.
One important fashion item to glamourize your summer is a high, high-heeled pair of sandals, so high that most models wobbled on the catwalk. But you can pull it off- for sure. A dozen trends await you, from platform to wedge, from sling backs to gladiator. If you are wiser then you are fashion crazed, perhaps flats are the answer. They come in ballet slipper styles in lace, hand-straps and exotic skins. Even high-heeled booties are a summer fare, with cut-away parts, leaving lots of bare skin for those intolerable heat waves.
Lace is showing up where you least expect it. No longer confined to wedding gowns and glamorous occasions, it is seen on blouses, separates, shoes and handbags. Prada has a stunning collection of lace handbags and a pair of lace pumps will pick up a classic suit or even a pair of jeans.
Big bags are here to stay, the bigger the better. Heaven knows why, but it seems some of us need to put a ton of stuff in there, including a laptop perhaps! The clutch is gaining popularity and handles are disappearing. Wear any purse under your arm, but no more over the shoulder.
In jewelry oversize ethnic beads in unusual shapes steal the show. The novelty is the big cocktail ring. More is definitely more when it comes to those knuckle clusters. From necklace to bangles and rings, big and bold is beautiful.
That gloomy blue-black nail polish can now be finally discarded. Red fingernails are flaming and flamboyant to go with all the season's colours. Nails are cut short and well-manicured. Summer nail polish shades of whites, pearl, and nudes are the season's favorites and flatter your dark, dark tan. Stay with your bronze glow for a healthy warm look from lips to lids.
Now with your goddess looks, in your flattering A-line, clutch under arm, you are ready to conquer the summer. A fashion watchword, believe it or not, is comfort. If you feel comfortable you will feel elegant, and brush away this chill wind of economic reality.
Above all wear a smile, "its worth a million dollars and doesn't cost a cent." A smile is more confident, more endearing, and more appealing that any fashion guru can create for you.
A little of what you call frippery is very necessary towards looking like the rest of the world. Abigail Adams (1744 -- 1818)


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