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The colour purple
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 08 - 10 - 2009


By Lubna Abdel-Aziz
How brilliant, how considerate, how obliging of our fashion designers! They cater to our every whim, grant our every wish, fulfill our fanciest fantasies. What does a paltry global economic crisis matter? Even if we are mere paupers, we shall be dressed in the colours of pomp and majesty. Draped in shades of sovereign splendor, will surely ease the dreaded cold of the coming season. Winter awaits us with a bushelful of multiple problems. The inevitable onslaught of the H1N1 pandemic, rising unemployment, a shortage of cash, and the usual threats of more aggression and bloodshed, notwithstanding, the colour purple will make it all seem less ominous.
In case you did not know it, purple was Queen Cleopatra's favourite colour. To obtain one ounce of Tyrian purple dye, she had her servants soak 20,000 Purpura snails for 10 days. Could this be why the colour purple became popular amongst royals? Who would not long for a little of the allure and mystique of the ancient Queen of romance? German composer Richard Wagner was also passionate about the colour. He wrote all his operas in a room with shades of violet. Leonardo da Vinci believed that the power of meditation increases ten times when done in purple light of stained glass. Colour theorists agree. They believe that purple helps develop children's imagination. So who are we to argue? Of course, Thais may feel differently, since purple is only worn by widows mourning the loss of their husbands. But leaving that aside, designers are on to a positively lifting colour, so purple it is. We shall be decked and draped in purple robes of authority and majesty for the long winter haul, and command our troubles to disappear.
Parting with cash will require long and serious deliberation. If purple and all its offerings of vivid shades of violet, plum, puce, iris blues and delphiniums, bishop reds, amethyst, aubergine, mauve, damson, lavender, lilac, etc, is not for you, just forget it. Dump the season's hottest colour and choose from a variety of equally desirable offerings. You can always accessorize in purple and look smashingly divine in shades of brown, copper, bronze, caramel, or café au au lait. Other colour hues include red, sapphire or majolica blue, and especially greens, warm olive or acid yellow green. Lime and citrus yellow have also grown in popularity. They all mix well with gold and metallic tones. Monochrome blends of grey, black and white benefit from a chockful of vibrant pink and berry red.
Now that you have settled on the colours of your winter wardrobe, pick the most flattering style that will do credit to your best features. Lucky among us are those with pretty sleek, soft, shoulders, at least one of them. The asymmetric bare shoulder dress of the summer has re-emerged for winter. The one sleeve has been stretched down to your fingertips. That should keep at least half of you warm. The one shoulder look has evolved into the ultra glamorous, conjuring visions of Helen of Troy and Jackie Kennedy Onassis.
Even among our contemporaries, Michelle Obama, usually so fond of sleeveless bare arms , has on occasion been seen covering one shoulder. Most designers sported several variations. Gucci's was most elegant in clinging back and just enough bare skin. Dress lengths vary from tunic to knee length. Patterned hosiery looked great on the runway, but you can opt for lady-like sheers or lace tights. Well defined shoulders, first seen at Balmain, is a growing fashion craze. The razor sharp shoulder with skinny fit arms is what everyone wants. The structured Balmainian shoulder is seen in coats, blouse, dresses and suits.
Seeking more dash for less cash, we resort to quality. Investing in quality pieces, ensures a timeless classic and a big investment, even during recession days, is the winter coat. Choose a neutral colour for durability. Black is always safe followed by camel or grey. You can eaqsily dress them up or down. If neutral sounds too dull, there is always the season's sensation purple. A coat style that is a perennial favourite is the military look. What do women like about the military fashion? Everything! Buttoning, belting, pocketing, frogging, lapelling, all seem to mix femininity with masculinity for an androgynous, sexy edge. This season takes the military inspiration to capes in tweed as seen at Balmain, and Roman Centurion leather dresses as shown by Prada. Speaking of leather, it is an essential item for the chic chicks. No longer confined to jackets or coats, you will find leather in dresses, skirts, leggings and more. Butter soft and supple, it is shown mostly in tarmac black with shiny smooth and soft surfaces.
The lure of the wild extends from leather to animalistic looks with leopard spots and zebra stripes. It is also found in many accessories, belts, hats, boots, ballet shoes and bags.
Footwear runs the gamut of boot lengths from ankles to thighs. Over the knee boots in purple suede are a must have item for our fashionistas
Accessories are smothered with studs on collars, pockets, shoulders, sleeves, but you can keep your studs confined to belts, clutches, or choose studded heels as seen at several couture houses, such as Burberry, McQueen, and Bottega Veneta. Roses will be sprouting everywhere in mid-winter, on evening shoes, corsages, and hair ornaments. Bows give roses some competition in jewelry, hair ornaments, or long pearl chains.
Bags are diminishing gradually in size allowing those new sculptured shoulders to feel free and independent. Chanel handbags are always desirable and fashionable, regardless of the size. Other houses are copying the Chanel gold and silver chain straps.
The most desirable items should include the colour purple, a touch of leather, a military look, and boots of any length, preferably thigh high, structured sleeves and a bare shoulder, please!
Our clothes reflect our times. As we look back in history, we identify eras by the costumes we wore. One wonders however about the importance of clothes. They do "make the man" and all that, but they are only an extension of the human spirit. Without the spirit, they might just as well be hanging on wooden mannequins preferably purple ones.
Fashions after all, are only induced epidemics
-- George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)


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