The often breathtaking statistics of food consumption during Ramadan hide huge differences in patterns of consumption, writes Dena Rashed While Ramadan is ostensibly about getting closer to God, for many people it is also an opportunity to get closer to their families, especially around the Iftar table. Food becomes a magic word, with savory dishes followed by sweet served to the delight of all. After almost two weeks of Ramadan the numbers are out on how much food Egyptians have been consuming during the holy month. A study released by the National Council for Social Research estimates that 83 per cent of Egyptian families change their eating habits during the month. Consumption of sweet products increases by almost 67 per cent, that of meat and chicken by 63 per cent. Sales of nuts, a seasonal favourite, are up by 25 per cent. A second study, this time by the Central Agency for Public Mobilisation and Statistics (CAPMAS), claims that during the first week of Ramadan 2.7 billion loaves of baladi bread, 10,000 tonnes of beans and 40 million chickens were consumed. Figures for the cost of imported dried fruits -- yamish -- vary wildly, with one report estimating that LE120 million have been spent on this Ramadan essential, while another came up with the astonishing figure of LE7.5 billion worth of imports in 2008. Ahmed Al-Naggar, economic researcher at Al-Ahram Centre for Political and Strategic Studies, has a hard time believing the figures spent on the yamish. "They are probably exaggerated," he says, though he accepts that spending on nuts and yamish within high income families is outrageous. Nor does he understand their pattern of Ramadan drinking. "In a country where there is an abundance of fresh fruit from which to make juices Egyptians instead opt for imported dried fruits to make Ramadan drinks." To really get to grips with consumption patterns during Ramadan, he argues, it is essential to look beyond the sometimes staggering figures. "If we divide the numbers by the total population we get a different picture," points out El-Naggar. Take, for example, bread consumption. The figures suggest that on average each Egyptian is consuming five loaves a day. While that seems like a lot, El-Naggar stresses that bread forms the staple mostly for low income families, whose consumption is likely to be above the average figure, hardly surprising when you consider that bread, with any kind of filling, forms the core of their diet, and not chicken or meat. El-Naggar also stresses that spending and eating patterns differ across different socio-economic groups. "The poor spend a vast proportion of their monthly income on food. They earn very little money and can barely make ends meet. Basically, consumption patterns in Egypt are typically of a low income country, where many people can't afford to eat meat. Consumption of more expensive goods is skewed towards the wealthy and distorts the overall picture." Top heavy patterns of consumption, with the rich vastly overspending on food, results in massive amounts of produce being wasted, says El-Naggar. In the hope of ensuring that no one goes to bed hungry the Egyptian Food Bank (EFB) has been advertising during Ramadan on TV, reminding the public that many people are in need of basic necessities. EFB was established in 2002 as a charitable, national non-governmental foundation. It aims to deliver food to the needy, including widows, old people and the unemployed. It accepts monetary and material donations from individuals, companies and organisations. It also accepts excess or unused food, distributing it among the most needy. Sabah Mohamed, 27, who got married just before Ramadan began, thinks organisations such as the EFB do an important job but remains worried that the bulk of their activities are concentrated in the holy month. "Ramadan packs containing basic foodstuffs are distributed to the poor by many charities. For a family of six, though, the contents barely suffice for two days," says Mohamed. What she would like to see is support for the poorest continuing throughout the year. She is hopeful that large private companies might contribute LE1 from each sale to support charities such as EFB. Like many Egyptians Mohamed is fond of the feasting that breaks the fast. "Yet," she complains, "at some points it seems hysterical. All celebrations are now associated with food and prices skyrocket." A newlywed dependent on a low income, still she got into the loop of inviting people over to Iftar. "Ramadan requires a large budget, whether you like it or not," she says. Hanan Shafiq, a full time seamstress and mother of six, complains that her budget this month is tight, not least because immediately following Ramadan she will have to buy school clothes for her kids. She, too, faces the dilemma of how to entertain her family. "We are a big family, and we all invite each other during the holy month. I am taking two days off work to cook for the 40 guests that I will be having, my brothers, sisters and their children." The effort is not just about cooking but also the budget. One Iftar invitation can cost Mohamed LE400. "Sometimes I have to borrow money to make sure I am providing an appropriately lavish meal. Most of the money goes on necessities. Y amish and nuts are not a priority. But however I try to divide the money the month drains me financially."
