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Restaurant review: Prettier than Parvati
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 01 - 12 - 2011


Restaurant review:
Prettier than Parvati
Come sample Asha Bosie, Bollywood and waitresses with cutest kowtows and curtsies. Paradise is not lost, rejoices Gamal Nkrumah
Go for the sari-clad demoiselle. She ushers you into Asha, a captivating olive and vermilion restaurant animated with lyrics of the legendary Bollywood singer Asha Bhosie.
This Indian eatery, like its twin Chop Chop, is especially convenient if you live in Giza, Mohandessin or Agouza, and fancy an uncorrupted taste of India. Both Asha and its Chinese twin are located in the Suez Canal Tower, perhaps the easiest venue to find because it stands next to the plush Saudi Embassy. Comely oriental girls in colourful sarongs and saris shudder involuntarily in the nippy November air.
Perhaps you fancy the girl in the sari, reminiscent of the classical Hindu goddess Parvati, the perfect wife and homemaker. If you prefer Chinese chow follow the sarong-clad cuties. Asha is tucked away in an equally eye-catching corner of one of the most attractive and main thoroughfares of Giza. Asha is conveniently open from noon until midnight.
And, as far as I am concerned, it is well worth the trip if you live further afield. This is especially the case if you are a connoisseur of Indian cuisine. Zenot, Asha's chef de haute cuisine, is a durga, demon-king guru who perfects Parvati's playfulness with his calming connoisseur savoir-faire.
The dishes, enlivened by Asha Bhosie's melodic strains, are authentic Indian delicacies -- even though at times the dishes are modified in order to cater for a more cosmopolitan taste. Take the lamb rogan josh, so succulent that mouthwatering morsels melt facilely in your mouth. Or ponder the Massala's Paalak, creamy spinach which comes with paneer (home-made cottage cheese and garlic) and is served with either sweet corn or mushroom (the tinned varieties) is an enticing side-dish even though neither tinned mushroom nor sweet corn is authentically Indian. My favourite is the Tandoori raan (leg of spring lamb marinated in secret spices, braised with Oriental condiments and seasonings) to take your breath away.
The potato and pea tikki with channa is heavenly. Jhinga massala prawns cooked with onions, coconut milk and Indian spices are a veritable delight, and it is a renowned south Asian specialty. Variations of this particular dish are to be found in India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia and Indonesia. It is a tad too rich and cholesterol-laden, but it is a special treat all the same.
Murgh Jalfareizi chicken with sweet bell peppers, onions, tomatoes and aromatic spices is a house specialty, but for the platinum blonde, I thought murgh tikka, boneless chicken glazed with selected Indian spices, would be a safer bet. And, indeed, it was. My blonde companion loved it, hungrily devouring the entire plateful of chicken.
The Kashmiri rogan josh fish curry cooked with coconut milk and delicate spices was delectable. My ice blonde was not too keen on the fiery curry, even though I specifically asked for the curry to be mild. As a matter of fact, the menu does mention that "all dishes can be prepared without chillies, mild or hot". I myself am fond of the hottest dishes, and waitresses with the cutest kowtows and curtsies.
There were other options such as the Massala kebab platter, chef's selection of tandoori specialties, but the mild murgh tikka proved to be the best bet as far as my fair lady was concerned. There was a wide range of vegetarian delicacies on offer. Baingan Bharatha, a special favourite of mine, charcoal smoked aubergine languidly cooked with onion and tomatoes -- an obvious choice. And, it was cooked to perfection. Chaawal, steamed basmati rice served plain, is my all-time favourite. And, it is the perfect complement to both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes -- it goes with just about everything.
The choice of bread at Asha is bewildering. The tandoori roti, whole wheat bread from the tandoor is irresistible. Richer still and sinfully delectable are the aloo paratha (pan-fried whole wheat bread with potato and the paneer paratha (pan-fried whole wheat bread with cottage cheese). The breads were among the most enticing of foods at this gem of an Indian eatery.
The choice of dessert is equally compelling. The gulab jamum is perfection on a plate -- the delicate rose-flavoured syrup, delectable.
Asha
Giza


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