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Seeing is believing
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 24 - 12 - 2009

A media tour of South Africa has allowed the group to see for itself how ready the country is to host June's World Cup. Inas Mazhar joined the FIFA and South Africa Tourism sponsored one-week journey
Following the FIFA World Cup draw in Cape Town two weeks ago, the media tour began from Cape Town, the city that hosted the draw. The tour included some of the host cities, stadiums and sightseeing attractions. Over 30 media representatives from around the world were invited to the tour for a closer look at the country's final preparations to host the world's most prestigious sporting event. The media people also had a chance to meet top officials of the state and organisers with whom they discussed the latest preparations.
Accordingly, Al-Ahram Weekly will start a series of stories to preview South Africa's preparations. We begin with host cities and stadiums, then onto communications, transportation, tourism, safety and security, ticketing, hospitality and marketing.
One would be hard pressed to find a reason not to fall in love with one of South Africa's most iconic cities, Cape Town, a diverse city regarded as the melting point for various cultures in southern Africa. It has one of the most idyllic settings -- nestled between the ocean and breathtaking mountains. Table Mountain rises 1,086 above the city and has served as a mariner's landmark. On a clear day, the flat- topped mountain is visible 200km out to sea.
The "Mother City", as Cape Town is known in South Africa, has an abundance of contrasting activities from lounging on the Atlantic seaboard's popular beaches to exploring the vividly painted area of the Bo-Kaap. Hout Bay is a hub for fishing, especially tuna and crayfish, and the historical naval base at Simon's Town has a fascinating past.
In football , Cape Town has produced many of South Africa's top internationals such as Shaun Bartlett, Benni McCarthy and Andre Arendse who play top football in Europe. The city has also produced many other top footballers that went on to play for some of the top clubs in Europe. Former Manchester United player, Quinton Fortune is one such example. Fortune signed for United in 1999 from Spanish side Atletico Madrid.
South Africa's all-time top goalscorer, McCarthy has enjoyed international success, winning the UEFA Champions League with FC Porto under the leadership of Jose Mourinho. He also won a Portuguese top flight Golden Boot. McCarthy has been one of the country's most celebrated players in the last 10 years.
Bartlett played for FC Zurich in 1998 and then made the move to Charlton Athletic in 2000. During his tenure at Charlton, he helped the club consolidate their position in the English top flight.
The now defunct Hellenic FC was the first Cape Town side to win a championship in 1971, soon followed by Cape Town City. In 1995, Cape Town Spurs swept the board and did the double, claiming the league and knockout cup crowns. All three clubs have since folded.
Ajax Cape Town and Santos, champions in 2002, continue to keep professional football alive in the city. Ajax Cape Town is a satellite club of Dutch giants Ajax Amsterdam and the partnership between the two clubs has seen many players launching their careers in Europe. Those include current Everton star Steven Pienaar, Bafana Bafana captain Aaron Mokoena, and McCarthy.
Cape Town has a number of clubs that compete in the country's First Division League: Ikapa Sporting, FC Cape Town, Hanover Park and Vasco da Gama.
Green Point Stadium
One of the most artistic football venues in South Africa, the newly-built Green Point Stadium is situated in one of the much sought-after areas in the city of Cape Town. Green Point Stadium is one of the two semi-final venues for the World Cup.
This multi-purpose venue will also stage major events and concerts. Fans will be a stone's throw from the ocean and the mountains of Cape Town will also provide the backdrop for matches. The location is ideal as it is a short walk from the transportation hub of the city. The new stadium has been partly built on land that was previously used as a golf course.
The stadium, which has an exterior covered with noise-reducing cladding, has a capacity of 70,000 and is scheduled for completion in December 2009. The Green Point Common, on which the new 2010 stadium is being built, was originally much larger than what now remains, and included most of the land between the sea and Signal Hill, stretching from the city centre towards Sea Point.
Cape Town has another world standard stadium, Newlands, but this is primarily used as a rugby union venue. Post-FIFA World Cup, Green Point Stadium is likely to be used by some of the Cape Town-based professional football outfits that include Ajax Cape Town and Santos.
From Cape Town, the tour flew in a charter flight to the Nelson Mandela Bay/Port Elizabeth. Named after one of the world's renowned statesman and South African icon, Nelson Mandela Bay/Port Elizabeth is one of the most sought after destinations in South Africa. It will host the third and fourth place play-off.
Known as 'the Friendly City', Nelson Mandela Bay/Port Elizabeth is surrounded by immaculate beaches and is one of South Africa's port cities. It is located in the eastern Cape Province which has been home to some of the country's most iconic figures including Mandela, former president Thabo Mbeki, Steve Biko, Chris Hani, Walter Sisulu, Oliver Tambo and other heroes of the struggle against apartheid.
The city's buildings are a physical timeline of the architectural changes dating as far back as the 19th century. The Opera House is a good example of Victorian architecture and is still in use and the city also has the richest collection of nouveau art buildings in South Africa. Nelson Mandela Bay/Port Elizabeth is an exceptionally busy port city and is regarded as the motor industry capital of South Africa.
Football, rugby and cricket are the most popular sports in this part of the world and it is therefore not surprising that some of the country's top cricketers, rugby and footballers have emerged from the eastern Cape Province.
The now relegated Bay United were the city's only top flight outfit. And with the team failing to preserve their spot in top flight football, it means the city once again finds itself without a professional club. Before Bay United, the city's last professional team was Michau Warriors, which was relegated in 1997. PE Blackpool played in the top flight in 1991 after the unification of the segregated football leagues. Among other players who are from the area are former Bafana Bafana defender Frank Schoeman, Patrick Mayo and Blackburn Rovers forward Elrio van Heerden.
The city was host of the group and quarter-final stages of the 1996 CAF Africa Cup of Nations. Most football games have been hosted at the Eastern Province Rugby Football Union Stadium. South Africa beat Trinidad and Tobago in the 2003 edition of the Nelson Mandela Challenge. The city also hosted Senegal for the 2005 Nelson Mandela Challenge. South Africa lost 3-2 to Senegal.
Before leaving the city, the media visited the Red Location Museum located at New Brighton. The museum displays the history of apartheid in South Africa.
Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium
The Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium, set on the shores of the North End Lake, is the first football dedicated stadium in the city or surrounding areas. The stadium, one of the newly built stadiums for the 2010 World Cup, was completed a year prior to the commencement of the world's greatest show on earth -- a major milestone for the city which has already hosted international football friendly matches like South Africa and Japan.
The 48,000 Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium will host the match for third place and a quarter-final amid a total of eight matches during the World Cup. The stadium has an eye-catching, unique roof-structure and a spectacular view, overlooking the North End Lake.
Before the construction of this multi-purpose venue, all international football matches were played at the Eastern Province rugby stadium, the EPRU Stadium. The playing field will be of natural grass with the outer surrounding area to be artificial turf. One of its first major test events was the coveted Soweto derby between Orlando Pirates and Kaizer Chiefs, a game that attracts capacity crowds in South Africa.
The tour group then flew to another coastal city, Durban. It was an unforgettable flight. It became so foggy that the airport had to close after a plane ran off the runway because of poor visibility. Hours later, we had to take off but while flying a storm hit the plane and turbulence shook the passengers. Luckily, we arrived safely.
The City of Durban or Ethekwini, is a place of fusion. It is the largest city in the KwaZulu-Natal Province. The city has an intense gusto for life and has a diverse range of cultures. Durban is the venue for one of the two semi-finals of the World Cup and with its humid weather, it is bound to be a tourist hot spot during the tournament.
Durban, which is also a port city, is the busiest port in Africa. At the very heart of Durban is the 'golden mile', a four-kilometre stretch of beaches, promenades, swimming pools and restaurants. UShaka Marine World is Africa's largest marine-themed park. Within the park is one of the five largest aquariums in the world.
The media visited a nature reserve and crocodile farm in which traditional Zulu dancing was performed which explained the traditions of this province's inhabitants.
Durban hosted the preliminary draw on 25 November 2007. Durban is also a gateway to the Zulu Kingdom, where tourists experience the intensity of Zulu culture. The city is also a good base from which to explore two UNESCO World Heritage sites. The Greater St Lucia Wetland Park has various landforms such as coral reefs, coastal dunes, lake systems, swamps, and reed and papyrus wetlands. The Ukahlamba/Drakensberg National Park has dramatic blue mountains and the largest concentration of rock paintings south of the Sahara.
Durban is home to two Premier Soccer League clubs, Golden Arrows and Maritzburg United. The city is said to have hosted South Africa's first football league in 1882, which comprised four clubs: Pietermaritzburg County, Natal Wasps, Durban Alpha and Umgeni Stars.
Durban is the birthplace of the former Zimbabwe international goalkeeper Bruce Grobbelaar who, while at Liverpool, added his name to a rare list of Africans who have played for teams which won the European Cup. The city has also produced talented football players such as Sibusiso Zuma, Siyabonga Nomvete and Delron Buckley.
Durban hosted group, quarter-final and semi-final games in the 1996 CAF Africa Cup of Nations. The city also hosted South Africa's game against England in 2003, which helped launch the country's bid for the 2010 FIFA World Cup. England won the encounter 2-1.
Durban Stadium
The newly built Moses Mabhida Stadium in Durban will host one of the semi-finals of the World Cup. The ground epitomises the architectural innovation on display in South Africa and takes its design inspiration from the South African flag, with its grand arch representing the unity of this sport-loving nation. The two legs of the arch on the southern side of the stadium come together to form a single footing on the northern side, symbolising the new unity of a once-divided country.
The 70,000-seater has been specifically designed as a multi-purpose venue, with an amphitheatre complete with a cable car which ascends to a viewing platform at the top of the expansive 350m arch, a staggering 106m above the pitch. The media took the Sky Car to reach the top. From this vantage point, you experience spectacular panoramic views of the nearby shoreline and the city. The roof is attached to the arch by 95mm-diametre steel cables. Each seat of the stadium is spacious and comfortable, providing a clear line of sight to the pitch. It will be open to the city's visitors.
The stadium is a world-class and multifunctional arena located in the heart of the Kings Park Sporting Precinct. Durban's Moses Mabhida Stadium will be the jewel in the crown of the Kings Park Sporting precinct. The entire area will feature additional sporting arenas and facilities as well as restaurants, shops, play areas for children and a pedestrian walkway linking the stadium complex to the beach.
The stadium was built on the site of the old Kings Park Stadium. Moses Mabhida, the ground's namesake, was born in Thornville near Pietermaritzburg on 14 October 1923 into a poor family who were later forced off their land. In 1963, Mabhida was asked by Oliver Tambo while working in Prague rallying support from the World Federation of Trade Unions, to return to Africa to develop the ANC's armed wing, Umkhonto we Sizwe (MK). He underwent military training and became the chief political instructor of new military recruits. He later served as the commander of MK.
The city of Nelspruit was the next stop . It would be the last time the media would take a domestic flight. The weather was clear and the plane landed safely at Mpumalanga International Airport which gives one the feeling that he has landed in a hotel. Surrounded by some of the country's most spectacular game reserves and the famous Kruger National Park, Nelspruit offers more than just a world class football stadium. Nelspruit is the capital of Mpumalanga Province. In siSwati, (one of the 11 official languages in South Africa), Mpumalanga means 'a place where the sun rises'. With the unending view of rolling mountains from God's Window to the majestic scenes of the green hills contrasting with blue rivers at Blyde River Canyon, this is definitely a place the sun would not want to leave.
Nelspruit is located in the local municipality of Mbombela. The entire area invokes the idea of a 'Garden of Eden', with a flourishing fruit industry and countless waterfalls which drop from dramatic cliff faces. Wild horses roam freely in Kaapsehoop.
A few kilometres north of the small town of Middelburg lies the museum village of Botshabelo. It preserves the culture of the Ndebele, who belong to the large group of Nguni people. The Ndebele presumably moved around the 15th and 16th centuries from Natal to live here in a quasi-peaceful co-existence with other Nguni groups. Nearby Pilgrims Rest is an old gold mining town which seems to have been forgotten by time. Also in the area is Komatipoort, which serves as a gateway to Mozambique.
Nelspruit is a good base for exploring the nearby Limpopo Trans-frontier Park, which incorporates the Kruger National Park (South Africa), Limpopo National Park (Mozambique) and Gonarezhou National Park (Zimbabwe).
The most famous footballer to emerge from Nelspruit is former Bafana Bafana fullback David Nyathi, who played in Spain, Switzerland and in Italy's Serie A for Cagliari. He was a member of the FIFA World XI who played a match in Marseille as part of the festivities for the 1998 FIFA World Cup final draw.
Mbombela Stadium
Mbombela Stadium, one of the newly built stadia for the 2010 World Cup, takes its name from the local municipality which incorporates the city of Nelspruit. Mbombela is siSwati and literally means 'many people together in a small space.'
The stadium, with a capacity of 46,000, is located in the city of Nelspruit in Mpumalanga Province. It is situated approximately seven kilometres from the city centre and 12 kilometres from nearby Kruger- Mpumalanga Airport. The ground also enjoys close proximity to various game parks, giving spectators the opportunity to see the wildlife during rest days.
The Mbombela comes as a welcome addition to football life in Nelspruit, and will leave a legacy of the beautiful game for all the people of Mpumalanga. Before the stadium's construction, Nelspruit had no top football venue to host international matches.
From Nelspruit, the media hit the road to Phalaborwa via a Panorama Route, known for its scenic beauty such as the Blyde River Canyon, historical Pilgrims' Reast where gold was discovered and a riyte known for its forests, waterfalls and dramatic viewpoints such as God's Window.
Polokwane is often described as a vibrant, busy and colourful wonderland in a sea of grasslands, surrounded by scenic mountains. It is home to many fascinating people and some remarkable cultural diversity. Polokwane is situated at the centre of the Limpopo Province and is surrounded by three of South Africa's neighbours: Botswana, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. It is the economic and cultural hub of Limpopo and is attracting investments into the province. This is also the land of the upside down tree known as 'Baobab', the biggest tree in Africa.
Polokwane, which means 'place of safety', was previously known as Pietersburg. The area around Polokwane is steeped in mythology and resonates with the sound of the ancient lands. It has seen the history of the Mapungubwe people who flourished during the Iron Age and Modjadji, the Rain Queen. The Bakone Malapa Northern Sotho Open-Air Museum is a good introduction to the daily life of the dynamic Bakone people, a highly sophisticated northern Sotho tribe.
The Polokwane Museum, housed in the historic Irish House, has interesting exhibitions including a history of the city and its environs. Here you find artifacts from the Stone and Iron ages. There are 4x4 adventure excursions and hiking trails in the Polokwane Game Reserve.
Professional soccer first came to Polokwane in 1995 when Real Rovers were promoted to the country's Premier Soccer League. There have been two other Limpopo Province-based sides who have competed at the highest level; Dynamos and Black Leopards. Both these teams have since been relegated to the lower ranks. Winner's Park is another popular club in the area and now competes in the First Division.
Peter Mokaba Stadium
Named after one of the renowned sons of the struggle and emancipation of South Africa against the apartheid regime, the Peter Mokaba Stadium holds much historical significance in South Africa. Peter Mokaba was born and bred in Polokwane and was renowned for his fighting spirit and for his inspirational leadership.
The design of the largely concrete structure is inspired by the locally iconic Baobab tree, with the steel structure supporting the roof plane gathered together at each corner of the stadium and supported by giant 'trunk' structures which accommodate vertical circulation ramps and service cores.
The stadium was built next to the old Peter Mokaba Stadium in Polokwane in the Limpopo Province. The newly built Peter Mokaba stadium is situated approximately 5km from the city centre, with a total seating capacity of 45,000.
Former African player of the Year Didier Drogba made his international debut for Côte d'Ivoire in a memorable and decisive CAF African Cup of Nations qualifier against South Africa at the old Peter Mokaba Stadium with the home side prevailing 2-1, securing a place for Bafana Bafana in the 2004 CAF Africa Cup of Nations.
The media continued its journey to the north of the country by road until it reached the city of Johannesburg which will host both the opening and final matches of the one-month 2010 World Cup.
Johannesburg or the City of Gold, as the city is known in South Africa, is the business hub of South Africa, contributing a substantial part of the country's GDP, approximately 12 per cent. The city is home to two of the country's most popular football teams and historical arch-rivals Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates. Johannesburg is also known as the economic engine of southern Africa and the trendsetter of South Africa. It is a melting pot laced with all the flavours of African cultures and beyond
Despite the hustle and bustle of the big city, Jo'burg is unexpectedly green and oriented towards outdoor living. It has a wealth of trees creating an 'urban forest', and many of the trees are located in its 2,328 parks.
Cultural wealth is also in abundance, with a host of interesting museums including Apartheid Museum, Constitution Hill and the living memory of the South Western Townships, which include the world acclaimed Soweto. The Mai Mai Market is the oldest market in Johannesburg and is a great place to discover traditional remedies. Moreover, Johannesburg has become a truly African city, melding disparate people from across the continent with the descendants of the original Tswana and Ndebele inhabitants and the European, Indian and Chinese settlers.
Today, descendants of immigrants from around the world call themselves Joburgers and they are added to daily by a continual stream of migrants, keen to have some of the city's shine rub off on them.
A heartland of South African football, Johannesburg is the backbone of the professional game. The majority of professional clubs come from the city and its surroundings. The professional football outfits from the city are Kaizer Chiefs, Orlando Pirates, Jomo Cosmos, BidVest Wits and one of the oldest clubs in the country, Moroka Swallows.
The city centre has been at the core of football development in South Africa. Professional football was formed in the offices of the old Rand Daily Mail newspaper in 1958. In later years, football unity talks took place at the old Rand International Hotel. Kaizer Chiefs, Orlando Pirates, Jomo Cosmos and the now defunct Highlands Park, Rangers and Lusitano have all been championship-winning clubs.
A match between Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates, which is dubbed as the 'Soweto Derby' in South Africa, is the biggest drawcard in the country. Every time the two meet, they attract a capacity crowd and their rivalry has been well documented throughout the decades.
Jo'burg is home to some of the country's most prized talent, including Jomo Sono, Kaizer Motaung, Ace Ntsoelengoe, Doctor Khumalo, and Lucas Radebe. Sono played with Pele and Franz Beckenbauer in the New York Cosmos.
Ntsoelengoe is revered as one of the greatest football players ever to be produced in South African football. He enjoyed immense success in the NASL.
The Premier League-based Wits University (now called BidVest Wit) are a team based at the University of Witwatersrand in Johannesburg. Due to their location, the team is affectionately known as the 'Clever Boys' or the 'Students'.
Johannesburg has hosted major events including the CAF Africa Cup of Nations, which was won by South Africa beating Tunisia 2-0 at Soccer City. The Ellis Park Stadium, situated in the heart of Johannesburg, hosted the historic 1995 Rugby World Cup where South Africa were crowned as the rugby world champions.
Soccer City Stadium
One of the most artistic and awe-inspiring football venues on the African continent, the newly reconstructed Soccer City Stadium will host the opening and final matches of the 2010 World Cup.
The ground's design is inspired by the iconic African pot known as the calabash, and its aesthetic appeal will be heightened when the stadium is lit at night. Soccer City is located in Johannesburg's southwest and is only a short distance from one of the country's football-crazy townships, Soweto. About 40 per cent of Johannesburg's population live in Soweto and this proximity is bound to make the stadium a hub of activity throughout the 2010 finals.
The stadium is widely regarded as the heart of football in South Africa as it has hosted many important matches throughout its history. In the mid 1980s, officials came together to build the first international football stadium in the country and the construction was funded from the football fraternity's coffers. Soccer City hosted the first mass rally of Nelson Mandela after his release from prison in 1990. Thousands of mourners lamented Chris Hani's assassination at the stadium in 1993. It was also the venue for the 1996 CAF African Cup of Nations final, with South Africa eventually triumphing over Tunisia.
The original stadium, which was known as the FNB Stadium, had a capacity of 80,000. Upgrades involved extending the upper tier to increase the capacity to 94,700, adding 99 more suites to bring the number to 184, constructing an encircling roof, adding new changing room facilities and installing new floodlighting.


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