Restaurant review: Saithe sauerkraut Fresh fish all the way from Germany to your table makes for a celebration, quibbles Gamal Nkrumah If the world of Cairene connoisseurs was slow to wake up to the notability of Nordsee, any doubts over the scrumptious platters of the northern German fishery establishment now have been put to rest at a plush seafood restaurant in City Stars. The fresh fish of Germany and Scandinavia gained global critical acclaim when Nordsee was founded in 1896 in Bremerhaven. In spite of the global economic malaise, North Sea fish retains its appeal, partly because its healthy simplicity manages still to get some flavour into it. My young herring mixed platter didn't interest my sons, and particularly not with sauerkraut. So I drenched and then macerated my herring in aioli sauce, and prevaricated over the yoghurt dressing. It is seafood to die for. Patting the plump Norwegian salmon steak like a French farmer would his preferred prize heifer, Karim commented favourably on the right consistency of the salmon. Sinking his knife deep into the flaky flesh of the saithe, which was evidently browned, on the outside and then slowly cooked sous-vide, Karim insisted on sampling the saithe fillet champignon. He's mad about mushrooms. This fantastic fish tasted something akin to, or approaching the texture of poached salmon with mousseline sauce. A dash of dill, a wee sprig of rosemary and a dainty sliver of garlic and lime sauce dousing the parsley potatoes. Youssef was content with his traditional German fish nuggets and French fries served with remoulade sauce. He eyed his brother's saithe disdainfully. He does not know quite what to make of the troll for fish on display. We had got off to a good start. Seafood is all around. Taste is all around. Nasr City is a northeastern Cairene suburb of gleaming skyscrapers, gigantic shopping malls and low-slung assembly plants nestled against the dusty spur of Egypt's Eastern Desert. City Stars is no idyllic setting for a seafood banquet. It is rather the sort of place you'll gobble up Spanish paella of saffron rice with squid, fruits de mer and chunky pieces of Alaska Pollack. The entire équipe is enticing and the setting not so enchanting? Instead, the question is how to do better than burgers and French fries. The downturn in this day and age is fraying the ties that bind together children and fast food. A few simple truths should underpin any discussion about cuisine for kids. The trick is not about seven courses, but instead about a more manageable menu and seven seas. But it isn't all about fish. It is the exciting ambiance as we stroll around the mall. Germany is in the heart of Europe and has hauntingly beautiful coastlines on the Baltic and North seas. Do the Germans have the pointers in Central European culinary matters? I've been in love with Bavarian cuisine after visiting Munich a couple of years ago. Germans are no less connoisseurs than their French counterparts. Local dishes are an integral part of their culture. They see it as their birthright. It's a question that evokes considered heartfelt debate. Slaving away in the kitchen was not what we wished to do this sultry afternoon. We glanced again at the menu, which incidentally is paraded in a pretty screen picture sideshow as you dine. Baked Pacific plaice fillet. Smoked salmon roll. Fish soup La Mer. Shrimp baguette. Japanese cocktail salad. Cocktail Marseilles salad. "Not very German," Youssef chips in. "There you are, that's more like it," his brother counters. Bremer bread roll. Young herring baguette. Potato wedges. Viking bread roll. "That's Scandinavian," Youssef insists. Another history lesson ensues. Shrimp in garlic salad. "In 1965 Nordsee opened its first fish restaurant followed by fish snack shops in the 1980s. Hors d'oeuvres? And, the ultimate seafood experience." Hmm. His brother listens intently, quietly emptying his soup bowl. We move on to the main course, a sumptuous seafood feast. The waiters hastily remove our empty plates. Nordsee City Stars, Phase 2, Fourth Floor, Family Dining Area Tel: 2480 2692 Lunch for three: LE500
