Restaurant review: Asian allure Asia House offers rare gems in a perfect setting, and has an elegance all its own, raves Gamal Nkrumah The restaurant is a refreshingly cool hideaway and an ongoing battle for Asia's cuisine crown. An exquisite indoor fountain with plump Indian elephants and fat frogs spouting clear water are the defining characteristics that gives one the feeling of floating off one's seat. A month ago, Asia House changed its menu altogether adding fresh exotic delights. Chef Sami, for the Indian cuisine, and Chef Ashraf, for the Chinese chow are still churning mouthwatering House specialties, but they did farther the frontiers of their dexterity with divers finding exquisitely outstanding surprises. The food is as delicately melodious as the sounds emanating from this most distinguished eatery. Asia House is a galaxy. Echoes of India, China, Thailand and the host of Asian island-nations �ê" the Philippines, Indonesia and, of course, Japan compete for consideration. The artistic Asian ensemble echoes an impassioned albeit compelling continent with which many Cairenes are unaccustomed. The capricious Indian rhythms couple with soothing Chinese sounds. This mercurial tempo sets the pace of this posh place. The irony is that the style of this restaurant is completely at variance with authentic Asian icons. It is a hybrid, but a most congenial one at that. The outward serenity of the restaurant masks the fiery nature of the food. The Asia House offers some fascinating insights into Asian cuisine, it is a work of art. The fountain is the centrepiece, but there are many other Eastern delights. The ceiling, a warm mahogany, is a galaxy of intricate woodwork. The silky Asian music rises up and curls itself into corners and crevices as though electronically diffused. If one discounts the soft murmur of the waters pouring from the fat frogs' mouths, the music has a soothing and engaging clarity, warmth and immediacy �ê" truly Asian. The atmosphere is near ideal for true romance. The waiters are unobtrusive, polite and welcoming. So is the soothing acoustics. The menu carries a huge emotional weight, and the dishes come in considerable sizes. My partner and I inspected the exquisite interior. We tried to figure out which item belonged to which country. Next, we decided to mix and match the meal �ê" we would try a hot Indian curry with a light, full-flavoured Thai soup. Lassi was our libation for India. I had mine with honey and cumin seeds. We opted for the Japanese beef delicacy tory teriayki, served with oyster sauce. I insisted on fish tikka of India �ê" tandoori marinated Red Sea fish and palak panner, spinach and cottage cheese curry. The Japanese beef was delicious. The Indian denizens of the deep were divine. Diners are back, and it is a sure sign of the depth of the post 25 January Revolution rebound. We did not have room for the fiery lamb vindaloo, even though I am assured it is absolutely delicious. Machchi kari, a rich fish curry, was superb. There is a genuine misconception about Asian cuisine in Egypt. Indian is too hot, Chinese too sweet. As for Japanese, it is supposed to be inedible. What is so pleasurable about Asian cuisine is its diversity. My partner opted for Ching Hsiu Hai Keng, Chinese seafood soup. Sag ghost, lamb stew with spicy spinach, is a delicious Persian-inspired dish. The meat was tender and juicy. The spinach was fresh and flavoursome. The dish was topped with a mouth-watering yoghurt. I would have loved to try the Bangus Sinigang, the delectable Filipino milk fish with ginger sauce. Alas, my tummy was awash with other objects of my desire. Asia House Helnan Shephard, downtown Cairo Tel: 2792 1000 Dinner for two: LE520
