Restaurant review: Hana does it all again Gamal Nkrumah delights in a Korean culinary kaleidoscope close to Cairo's core An exciting game of Asian whispers has been doing the rounds this winter. The clatter of chopsticks, porcelain bowls and teapots compete with the aromas emanating from the kitchen and the bustle of the busy eatery for the diners' attention. The whiff of Korean barbecue fills the air. The moment I heard the Korean restaurateur's familiar tread reverberating down the corridors and cloisters, her voice imperceptibly raised as she discreetly summoned one of the waiters, I hurried to greet her in the traditional Korean polite bow. She returned the greeting in a rather distracted and perfunctory fashion. She stepped back and studied my face, then with a broad smile, indicated that she did recognise me from the days when Hana was marooned on Aziz Abaza Street, Zamalek, and promptly did her swooning act. Her husband stood demurely behind his wife, grinning from ear to ear. He is a soft spoken Korean who maintains standards and is obviously in charge of the books. A large group of Koreans descend on Hana and ask if they could be seated at a larger table, eyeing ours covetously. I am intrigued at the slightly grander space of the relocated Hana. A somewhat flustered waiter appears and apologetically takes us hurriedly to a smaller table designed for three. Misunderstandings aside, it's been 15 minutes since we moved tables and a dainty waitress is hovering. "We should order," one of my companions complains. We opt for beef ribs and tongue. And, the waitress fetches us some traditional Korean rice wine, jinro soju. Once our dinner orders had been taken we raise our glasses and make a toast. "To the new Hana Korean Barbecue," we squeal with laughter, painstakingly ignoring the menu. "We know what we want, don't we?" This particular restaurant is popular for its generous servings of piping hot barbecue beef, pork and tongue. Seafood such as squid is also often in the offing with its natural juices suffused with a delectable authentic Korean marinade. A magnificent dome of thinly sliced beef tongue now sits on a medium-sized oval platter. Merriment returned as they realised that they were not to be deprived of their meat after all. The three ravenous carnivores waiting for their main course are in eager anticipation. The appetite and enthusiasm for Korean cuisine is now as keen in Cairo as it is in Seoul or Pusan. There is no one definition that best describes Hana but various adjectives go some way to conjuring up its ambiance: welcoming, comfortable and sometimes even quaint. The lunch and dinner boxes are a reasonable LE50 each. But, I always go for the Korean barbecue -- a testament of Korea's curious capacity to absorb disparate cultures: Mongol, Chinese, American and Japanese. Perhaps this is precisely why Korean cuisine has a universal appeal. It perhaps goes without saying that Korean cuisine also represents a melting pot of historical periods, beginning with the prehistoric and culminating with the golden era of the Three Kingdoms. Jinro soju is the most popular brand of rice wine in Korea. The distilled beverage is similar to vodka, except that it is downed neat. Like vodka, it is clear in colour but not quite as potent. The deliciously puissant brew is traditionally drank in tiny individual shot glasses. A diner, invariably the eldest, toasts "one shot", a challenge to others on the table to down their glasses in one gulp. Across from our table sat six Japanese with at least 12 bottles of Stella. They are greedily nibbling at their kimchi, the traditional Korean fermented vegetable dishes, served as starters. Kimchi, Korea's answer to Germany's sauerkraut, is rich in dietary fibres and low in calories. Brined anchovies and brined shrimps paste provide a piquant base for the nutritious fermented vegetables rich in vitamins, iron, calcium and other essential minerals. The Korean soups, of which Hana's seaweed is my first choice, are slightly more pungent than the Japanese variety. As the meal drew to a close, one of my companions paused and poured the last of the jinro into her glass and shook her head wildly. "This is strong stuff," she threw back her head and laughed. Hana Korean Chinese and Japanese Restaurant 25 Hassan Assem Street, Zamalek Tel: 2736 7873 Dinner for three: LE250
