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Yet another mother
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 09 - 05 - 2002


Injy El-Kashef dips her fingers in ice
Flux was one of the "in" places last year. Everybody had something good to say about it and I just couldn't wait to get my own taste of the pie. Sadly, however, I had failed on my two previous attempts last year: once being met with a closed door at 7pm, and the other time walking in and finding the stale, humid smell of a cellar. Although I was hungry I could not face sitting down to eat with the idea of mushrooms sprouting out of the walls.
It happened last week. Someone decided that we were going to Flux and I was in no mood to have an opinion so I just went with the flow, abstaining from even mentioning my previous experiences. When we got there the place was completely empty. In reaction to the question mark on my face my friends explained that it only gets crowded later in the evening. I thought "Humm... late night diners... I like that." Unwilling to spend the fresh month's pay on drinks, we had brought our own bottle of B&J for which we paid an LE120 bouchon, expecting a cool champagnière with ice and rounds and rounds of Coke. It never materialised, leaving us with no option but to keep ordering new ice-filled glasses from Flux's oversensitive waiters.
Although not many, all the options seemed exceptionally interesting. I settled for a Faisinjan with Spinach and Pine Nuts while the other order was a Salmon Steak with Sauce Provençale, preceded by a Grilled Saganaki Salad to share.
The salad was absolutely divine, consisting of a variety of leaves, types of lettuce, rocket and herbs, bathing in a sharp vinaigrette-like dressing and topped with a toast-sized piece of grilled cheese. Accompanied by the warm loaf bread dipped in the olive oil and balsamic vinegar dish, this salad was a wonderful Mediterranean experience.
The Faisinjan was similarly tasty: two small pieces of chicken cooked in a sweet, tangy sauce with whole steamed spinach leaves covered in butter and topped with a generous a mount of sautéed pine nuts next to a rich and creamy potato purée. The excellent music at Flux was an added delight to the succulent food, combining two sensory pleasures in the most pleasant manner. As for the Salmon Steak, I am afraid we had some reservations: although the fish's original taste was easily identifiable, there was a clear lack of flavour to the dish as a whole. The sauce provençale was too mild, lacked character and intensity, and the fish was just dull.
Dessert time. On the menu was something called Om Flux, which was too intriguing to be ignored. A huge bowl arrived with lots of spoons, but soon enough I was the only one indulgent enough to continue eating. Om Flux was compared to baby food, to muesli, to everyone's failed attempt at Om Ali, to what people with no teeth should live on, to mention but a few similes. I liked it. I found absolutely nothing wrong with filo pastry, sugar, milk, nuts and raisins in a warm bowl -- except perhaps that it did not deserve the honour of being the mother of Flux's desserts.
A very pleasant evening with good food, good music, the place almost to ourselves (luckily I would say after a few rounds of drinks) and not too ridiculous attempts at contemporary art on the walls. What's wrong with that for LE220?
Flux, 2 Gam'eyet Al-Nisr St, Mohandessin Tel 338 6601
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