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Lonely table just for one
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 29 - 08 - 2002


Resturant review
Lonely table just for one
Injy El-Kashef takes her profession seriously
In our corner of the world a single white female in public receives more attention than she needs and, in more explicit terms, than she might want to hear. Especially while traversing the stretches from her building to her car, and her car to her dinner venue. Not to mention at the traffic lights, when she is stuck in her car desperately waiting for the light to turn green so he may escape the chorus of verbal attention being showered on her from the sidewalk, or from the cab to her left. Once inside, the attention sheds its verbal element and metamorphoses into stares, which are avoidable by looking in a different direction but are still quite imposing considering the confined space of any restaurant in Cairo.
I had planned to dine with friends. Until the very last moment nobody knew what was happening or where we were going, there were the usual phone calls back and forth and confusion. Yet, somehow, we eventually managed to strike an agreement. I got dressed, hopped in my car and drove halfway to the meeting place, glad to be able to finally review this week's restaurant. Then I heard my cell-phone message alert. "Cancelled. Staying home." This is where the life of a restaurant reviewer differs from that of an ordinary citizens'. The average person can just turn around and go home, but the reviewer must go to the darn restaurant no matter what, whether he/ she wants to or not, whether he/she is alone or in company, whether he/she is penniless or not.
I chose a familiar venue, one in which I had boogied the night away on several occasions -- Shakers, at The Place boat. Shakers has become afflicted with the same "empty joint" syndrome that seems to have attacked many other popular venues in town. Most of the week these venues remain empty. But on Mondays and Fridays (with the help of a live Cuban band) the place will be packed with would-be salseros following the beat of Latin music and trying to catch the tempo. In the past I have attended such nights when I was a budding salsera, and followed salsa everywhere each night of the week. However, I have recently discovered that the dance floor exists the rest of the week as well, and the DJ is rather good, cooperative and respectable.
What I had never tried there was the food and I was in for a pleasant surprise. I ordered the home-made Sausages with Onions and Garlic as appetiser and got exactly what I expected, an Alexandrian-type sogoq with the rich tomato, pepper and onion-based sauce. The generous plate was truly delicious, probably some of the best sogoq of my life. It was a little spicy but had that overpowering aroma that leaves you begging for more. Although I was already full, I still had to sample the main course, which was no less than Beef Scaloppini with Fresh Crème, topped with Cheese and Mushrooms. The meat was incredibly tender and well seasoned, melting in the mouth leaving a delicious taste. I would think the cheese could become a bit of a nuisance if the dish cooled down a little, for it could turn more rubbery and ruin the otherwise delectable experience. I enjoyed my meal tremendously, enjoyed the smiling, efficient waiter who was sorely disappointed when I declined dessert despite the lure of tempting options such as apple tart, cheesecake, profiteroles and chocolate crêpe. But I could not force another forkful in my mouth thanks to the generosity and richness of the food.
I paid my LE92 bill (including a bottle of water) and moved as quickly as I could from restaurant to car and from car to building.
Shakers, The Place boat, next to Gezira Sheraton
Tel 736 1111


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