Restaurant review: Oh yeah Gamal Nkrumah takes to a taste of Libya Oea is the name of one of the towns the ancient Greeks lumped together as Tripoli, or three cities, the Libyan capital. The other two towns were Leptis Magna and Sabratha. And you can sample something of their antique grandeur at Oea -- a quaint Cairene Libyan restaurant. Ancient Oea, like Leptis and Sabratha, began as a Phoenician or Punic trading port, then became a large and prosperous Roman settlement. Only Oea, survived the Arab conquest of Libya. The city withstood Spanish sackings as well as Ottoman and Italian colonial rule -- all of which left an indelible stamp on Libyan cuisine. Oea, tucked away in a back street of Mohandiseen, is exquisitely furnished and clearly inspired by its ancient namesake. The food, too, is reminiscent of the fabled heduphagetica, or sweet eating, recipes of the ancient Greeks, Libyan style. Oddly enough, Oea is the only Libyan restaurant in Cairo. It first opened its doors to customers this Ramadan. Oea's clientele is predominantly Libyan, but its proprietor hopes to attract the local Cairenes as well. Serious dining is done upstairs. Downstairs is the cafe, for snacks, hot and soft drinks, and fruit juices. Try the tamarind. Cool and refreshing, its tantalising tartness is almost intoxicating. The soft sand hues and textures of the furniture are a constant reminder of Libya's deserts. The stone walls and arches are reminiscent of the ruins of ancient Oea. In addition to serving Libyan dishes, a Moroccan chef will fly in from Casablanca early in January to better acquaint Cairenes with the culinary delights of the Maghreb. A great many of Libyan culinary terms are borrowed from foreign tongues, the languages of peoples who colonised the country. Ma'akaroni is an Arabised rendition of the Italian macaroni. And like the Italians, the Libyans have a curious assortment of compatico, to accompany bread, which is not dismissed as an accessory of the dinner table, but is as vital as pasta and rice. The Libyan kitchen has its own antipasto, or hors d'oeuvres, with Harissa, the flaming hot chilli, being the main attraction. Libyans are fond of soups, especially in winter. Al-shorba Al-leebiya, or Libyan soup, is exquisite. It is spicy hot with tasty morsels of lamb thrown in with a dash of coriander, mint and lemongrass. All ingredients soak and simmer slowly in an onion and tomato-based broth. Feasting is, in a sense, the acme of social living in Libya. Special foods are prepared at weddings, others for the eid, or religious feasts, and Ramadan. I declined the vegetarian Couscous Bil-Khodra and the fish Couscous Bil-Hoot, opting instead for the traditionally sumptuous Couscous Bil-Bosla -- Couscous topped with a rich and spicy lamb, onion, bean, potato, tomato and chili stew. A friend dug into the delectable lamb stew Tabeekha Yahni. Also irresistible was the delicious vegetarian side dish, Tabahij, made with courgette, aubergine, onion, potato and tomato. Another friend opted for Rishta Borma, a pot purri of blubbery dried meat cooked with helba (fenugreek), lentils, chickpeas, caraway seeds, celery, garlic and tomato. For all Libya's endless and breathtakingly beautiful coastline, the Libyans are not particularly fond of fish. They are nomadic shepherds at heart and relish mutton and lamb. Still, Libyans have one or two exquisite fish dishes, but these tend to be side dishes rather than the main course. Fish soup, or Sharbat Hoot is surprisingly good and so are the Koftat Hoot, or fish cakes. Both are spicy and served as starters. Haraymi, is a deliciously spiced, lemon and cumin-marinated fish cooked in a garlic, onion, tomato and parsley sauce. Ruzz Mbauakhi, simply rice cooked with butter or ghee, goes well with fish. Libyans love rice. Ruzz Ja'ari is an aromatic and highly seasoned rice cooked and served with lamb and tomato. Ruzz Bil-Khaloot is rice cooked with chopped liver, almonds and a rich assortment of other nuts. Wash it all down with fresh camel milk, with its distinctive flavour and refreshing combination of frothiness and creaminess. Or, savour a shisha and sip a glass of bittersweet Libyan green tea. Oea 44 Aden Street, off Shehab Street, Mohandessin, Tel: 7621599
