Two momentous goals were achieved in Cairo's mediaeval city this year, notes Jill Kamil. One was the completion of two phases of a sustainable development project in Gammaliya, the other the restoration of a masterpiece of Islamic art and architecture Wekala Kahla, the vast ruined and derelict 17th-century khan of Ouda Pasha in Gammaliya, situated in one of the most heavily populated and polluted areas of the city, has been transformed from a water-logged and filthy plot into a beautifully restored historical monument, including a functional unit with a computer training centre and facilities, classes for the eradication of illiteracy and a children's centre. Thanks to the completion of the initial stages of the project, an iftar during the month of Ramadan was hosted at Kahla. It was attended by those involved in the restoration: the governor of Cairo, the Waqf Authority, representatives of the Egyptian-Swiss Development Fund (ESDF), Friends of the Environment and Development Association (FEDA) board members, as well as the owners and employees of workshops in the area and others. It was generally postulated in the past that different government departments, agencies and NGOs could work constructively together as the laws governing these institutions usually forced them to operate independently and that this situation was unlikely to change. The achievements at Kahla gives lie to this assertion. Collaboration, which is necessary if historical Cairo is to be saved from further deterioration, can be achieved. Sustainable development is possible. "The philosophy behind our project is that there can be no sustained development [in mediaeval Cairo] without a clear commitment to preserve the environment, promote the rational use of resources and at the same time put historic buildings to good use," said Adli Bishay of FEDA, director of the project. And that is exactly what happened. The ruined khan, that once had stables and warehouses, as well as inns for travelling merchants built around a huge courtyard at ground level, has, with considerable effort and public participation, been constructively reactivated. The first phase of the project, simply known as FEDA, was launched in 1992 with funds from the ESDF. Technical studies were carried out with the cooperation of the Waqf authority (the owner of the properties), the Cairo Governorate, the Supreme Council of Antiquities (SCA), the International Cooperation Ministry, the Ministry of Social Affairs, the Egyptian Environmental Affairs Agency, and the Higher Committee for Historic Cairo. The project zone lies south of the Fatimid walls of Cairo within the area marked by Shari' Al-Mo'ezz Lidin Allah to the west, Shari' Al- Gammaliya to the east, Shari' Al-Dabayiah to the north and the alleyway south of Al-Darb Al-Asfar to the south. Here is the largest concentration of ancient mosques, sabils, madrassas, souks, hammams and khans in Cairo. Accordingly, before any attempt could be made to restore Kahla, it was necessary to study the social make-up of the surrounding area and the distribution of workshops -- some non- polluting (such as wood, metal and leather-work, weaving, spinning and shisha production) and others that contaminated the air. The latter were removed. "This was no easy task since, even when alternative accommodation was found, the factory owners had to be convinced of the necessity to move -- this took more time than had been anticipated," said Bishay who went on to explain that it was even more difficult to gain the confidence and support of the Waqf Authority, which owns most of the extremely deteriorated buildings in the Gammaliya area. It then took two more years to gain permission from the SCA and Cairo Governorate to move ahead to the next stage of the project: the clearance of solid and liquid waste from the area, renewal of the neighbouring building's sewer system and the renovation and restoration of a double-story building constructed on the site for 1992 earthquake victims in order to use it to accommodate the environmental- friendly workshops originally at Kahla, along with others that would be transferred there from other deteriorated areas -- Al-Rabe'a and Al-Kharroub (to the rear of Al-Aqmar Mosque) -- whose previous spaces will be converted into a recreational/cultural centre for children. The renovation and upgrading of Wekala Kahla was celebrated during the National Day of the Cairo Governorate in July 2002. But 2003 sees it as a completely organised, properly functioning unit. "There is a training centre for the eradication of illiteracy -- for youths and young adults," said Bishay, adding "labourers of workshops are encouraged to join the classes and are enthusiastic about reading instructions of new machinery." As part of the public participation dynamic of the rehabilitation, young social workers have been sent to four different zones of Gammaliya to foster appreciation amongst the local population for the historic area in which they live, as well as to ascertain their needs. "One of their requests was for a computer centre, and this was provided by FEDA along with instructors," Bishay said. With the immediate objectives already achieved, FEDA's long-term goal is to upgrade the demonstration area and achieve sustainable human development through improving living conditions and the quality of life of income generating activities; health, health-awareness and pollution control, improving general services, eradicating illiteracy, handicraft encouragement and technological training. Bab Zuweila, a masterpiece of pre-Crusader military architecture that once graced the south entrance to the princely Fatimid city of Cairo, now stands cleaned, rehabilitated and provided with information panels (in Arabic and English) which give a stimulating chronicle of its history without overwhelming the space around it. Its opening to the public was another major achievements in mediaeval Cairo this year. Thanks to the USAID-funded project, under the management of the American Research Centre in Egypt (ARCE) in collaboration with the Supreme Council of Antiquities (SCA), Bab Zuweila has been restored to the elegance of its younger days. Gone is the scaffolding and the piles of sand that made the grand gateway almost inaccessible after restoration started in 1998, and revealed is the magnificent edifice that was designed to withstand invaders but was never tested in battle. The gate, like all other Islamic monuments in the area, suffered seriously from air pollution, subsoil water, high levels of humidity and leakage of drainage water and sewage from decayed pipes installed a hundred years ago. Atmospheric pollutants threatened the integrity of the stonework, and the leaves of the gateway -- which weigh four tonnes each -- were on the verge of collapse due to the decomposition of the wood. "One of the most serious causes of the damage was the shops built around the structure; the area was really in a mess," said Nairy Hampikian, director of the project and who worked with a team of 38 specialist. "Because we were faced with so many unknown factors, we had to modify and adapt our conservation strategy as we went along," said Hampikian, adding "it was a real challenge". Various styles of stonework on the gate were subject to close scrutiny and it was possible to distinguish between the original stonework and the layers added during later periods. It appears that Bab Zuweila has survived since 1092 until now, "by having layers humbly added to it, or letting go of layers subtracted from its original entity," said the project director. Discoveries made in the gateway during the beautification phase include a 12th-century watering trough for animals that transported goods and people into and out of the city, and a painted relief with the emblem of a sultan called Al-Mansour drawn on a gypsum base. The conservation project not only restored the gateway, using the latest methods of conservation and restoration, but some parts of the interior were turned into exhibition spaces. Showcases for objects unearthed have been placed in cabinets and glassed-in areas. The objects found include water pipes, painted coffee ware and other artifacts. The history of the monument is told from an archaeological perspective, and the display sequence leads to a new staircase built to ensure visitors circulate smoothly through the exhibits. The information panels are designed for a general audience of tourists and schoolchildren, with the first three areas featuring chronological aspects and the remaining areas containing archaeological stories. The area around the gate was the object of urban conservation projects. Modern underground infrastructures such as electrical cables, telephone lines, water and sewerage pipes were installed. The street was paved and the four shops in the passageway of the gate were conserved and renovated in keeping with the aesthetics of the restored monument. This 1,000-year-old south gate to the Fatimid city (909 to 1171), Bab Zuweila has been returned to its former glory without disrupting the life of the surrounding area and its residents. There are hundreds of historical buildings in mediaeval Cairo -- some already restored, others steadily deteriorating. This project should be used as a model for future restoration
